fiddlepaddle

It does have variable rapid fire (button B when used with 2600). It's a regular digital joystick and I don't think slow or pause do anything on the Atari. I was giving a reference point/starting point for you; I think you'll still have to build the device you want.

Well, now that I tried to test it, all of the 2600 shooting games I have out seem to be auto fire. I did try my joystick, (asciiware power clutch sg) on several non-shooting games to see if I could tell if it works (inconclusive) and finally tried missile command, which isn't really appropriate for testing this feature, but it appears it works. Then I tried Super Cobra, and it's not really helpful for that game, but it seems to work correctly.

What about a Genesis joystick with variable speed adjustment? I haven't tried in awhile, but I think it works...

You're fighting an uphill battle. It's sad, but online information is becoming generally less reliable as time goes on. Eventually, Google or Facebook or Amazon will buy Wikipedia and it will turn into primarily promotional material for wide consumption.

Notice how it was never used? But it does look like it was rolled up and stuffed in a sock for 20 years...

I actually find the driving controller and paddles to be the perfect size for my hands, but if I were to try to make it bigger for myself, I might try cutting a piece of wood in a circle of desired size and thickness and glue it to an existing paddle controller handle. If you want it really big (like maybe a full size steering wheel), you probably would need to mount the controller to something big and heavy (built out of wood maybe?). Also realize that a bigger wheel might make it too easy to force the paddle past the left/right stops and accidentally cause damage. Good luck, and post here if you make something yourself that works out...

before doing all that work, i would try it on a CRT, just to make sure it's the console.

Thanks. Yeah, I know, I did that, but not much info there, nor many sales. Most show minimal value, but I'm more interested in a ball park price range from collectors here who might give me their honest feelings in a situation where they happened to run across these in the wild. Maybe something like "uh, I'd pay maybe $25 for the lot" or that kind of thing.

Posting a summary here might help, but you'll be joining a long list of others doing that. Try searching the forums for examples...

So, your Adam, 5200, VCS, and Playstation must be in the other closet, right? And where is your turntable, cassette deck, 8-track and laserdisc?

I'm culling my collection and have a few Nintendo 64 Japanese games I'm going to sell to a local guy, but I don't have any idea what I should ask for them. These are all cart only, with nice labels. Can I get some ball-parks on these from everyone? NUS-NG5J-JPN Konami, Goemon ("Going Now"), RPG NUS-NYSJ-JPN Yoshi's Story NUS-NPFJ-JPN Pokemon Snap NUS-NDRJ-JPN Epoch Co, RPG NUS-NUTJ-JPN Victor Interactive, RPG NUS-NWTJ-JPN Zed two, Infogrames UK, Wetrix Classic NUS-NH5J-JPN Konami, Nagano Winter Olympics 98

OK, sorry to accuse you...

I've previously kept a bunch of old video game stuff in plastic bags inside cardboard boxes for maybe about ten years. Not as cold as where you are, but it typically goes below zero (F) a couple of times per year for a few days. Average maybe about 25 deg F in the winter. Everything pretty much still works OK. Extreme heat is probably more likely to cause damage than extreme cold, though temperature fluctuations can cause ICs to work their way out of sockets and stuff like that. I do know that repeated fluctuations right around the freezing temperature with moisture present WILL cause damage to just about anything.

I would have told him the computer is useless without the printer. You took advantage of him.

I've never had a TV that has that kind of input, but it looks like a BNC connector, so maybe try a BNC male to RCA female adapter?

Whew...I read that wiki link...just PACKED with technical jargon. To summarize: the insides of ICs slowly melt all together, and other things you do can make it happen faster.

Well, I've been watching this project from the beginning, and I was going to order one once they were ready and available. Because I happened to be on vacation once the early risers got theirs shipped, I missed out. All the rest using up existing parts, of the second $200ish batch, were snapped up before I could request one. Not being critical of Collectorvision here...I completely understand why they are choosing to do it this way. It's a very conservative way to minimize risk and produce what appears to be a tremendous exceptional product, but I'm not really in a position to put that much money into escrow with no end date, and not even any commitment. Even if several more batches are ultimately produced, this process unfortunately won't work for me.

That's an impressive collection. I never knew there were so many, quite different, variations of the graphics.

Every time I steal some little kids handheld at the playground, I always play it for a while before taking it to the pawnshop.

I really like lots of video games, and have for many years, but I'm kind of amazed at the number of people who waste so much of their life "accomplishing" completion of a video game. I enjoy SMB for an hour or two once in a while, but I've never even come close to finishing it. The tedium of practicing over and over those little jumps just seems so pointless to me...there are so many other rewarding activities in life.

Sometimes the utility overrides any moral objections. I love having a portable system that plays atari games, and it didn't cost that much; it's not perfect, but it's been an exceptional value for me. I have been turned off by things MANY companies have done to succeed in the market, but I still buy their products if I want them. If it's really a bad situation, I have faith that the legal system will usually eventually work things out, which can include penalties and/or remedies. Also, I have SO many different versions of Ms. Pac-Man... spare me the tears for theft of the IP on THAT game.

if you can, try tuning a radio to the frequency used and make sure the joysticks are transmitting. fresh batteries? I bet it's something in the receiver unit. Might be able to find another on ebay for cheap without joysticks. maybe also possible it's something with your power supply.

I've sold a bunch of stuff to several local game stores. You have to sell low enough so they can make some money, but if the systems and games are clean and neat, there are guys who want it and will pay 40 to 50% of what they will sell for, at least in my area. Realize that ebay prices are a bit high, and be honest with yourself about what you REALLY want to keep. Always talk directly only to the owner, and sell a few hundred dollars worth at a time. Try to find 4 or 5 store owners you can be friendly with. Nobody will really want a box of genesis sports games or Atari commons, and really rare items are harder to sell, so harder for a reseller to justify, but stuff in the middle sells really well, in my experience. You wont get as much as ebay, and it'll take more time than selling the whole collection at once, but take the opportunity to talk about everything and enjoy the experience. Lots of stuff has gone out the door at a reasonable price with not much effort.

Interesting. Does anyone know what technology these batteries are based on?

OMG (21 hours later)! I speled Vectrex rong!