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Frotz

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Posts posted by Frotz

  6. Posted

    I have 15 ST-branded M27C256B UV-erasable EPROMs and a Minipro TL866 chip programmer. The chips came as used off Ebay. When I try to program these chips, I get this:

    $ minipro -p "M27C256B @DIP28" -w cleurom2.bin -S
Found Minipro TL866A v03.2.80
Chip ID OK: 0x208d
Writing Code... OK
Reading Code... OK
Verification failed at 0x200: 0xc8 != 0x00

    I thought that this was due to this particular variation of the 27c256 requiring more current than the Minipro burner could provide. So I bought a cable that has two male USB type A plugs on one end and a female type A jack on the other end. I've used variants of this for older hard drive enclosures that needed the extra current. This didn't help in the slightest. All of them fail programming in exactly the same way. Erasure goes fine. I've programmed several 27c256 chips from Texas Instruments with no problems. What's going on here? Am I better off simply trashing these chips?

  7. Posted

    Some of you may have heard of the P112 single board computer kit and have been wondering when more will be available. If you don't know what the P112 is, it's a single board computer that uses the Zilog Z180 microprocessor to run CP/M and similar operating system. There's a flavor of Unix for it called UZI-180. This is a kit, that is, you solder it together yourself.

     

    I've started a Kickstarter project to finance a new run of PCBs and parts. See http://661.org/p112/ to read about the P112 and download the user manual. A kit is $100 with $12 extra for shipping outside the US. This gets you the board with surface-mount parts soldered on, a boot ROM, two CDs full of stuff, and two serial port pigtails. I didn't want to make complete kits this time round because my costs for doing so have gone way up. Instead I have prepared a shared project on Mouser.com with most of what you'll need. Two parts need to be obtained from Digikey instead.

     

    The Kickstarter.com page is http://www.kickstart...rd-computer-kit. Feel free to email me with any questions.

  8. Posted

    I figured out the "other node" business and put the Vectrex back together. The vector is crisp and bright. The buzz is much-reduced, still present, but acceptable. One significant problem that remains is that the picture shakes, particularly in the bottom-right (right where the reserve ships are in Minestorm). According to the service guide, the likely culprits are some ceramic caps on the power board, a ceramic cap on the CRT board, and an op-amp underneath the heat sink on the power board. I'm tempted to replace all of these. Has anyone here sucessfully done repairs on the stuff underneath the heat sink?

  9. Posted

    Guess this on the buzz reduction 2 part: play vectrex

     

    That's the one. This text is clear as mud. Let's see if I have it right...

     

    • Put the center conductor of the coax in the hole on the logic board where the audio signal was (going in from the TOP).
    • Solder the shield to the leftmost pin of the volume pot (when viewing from the rear).
    • Solder one end of the 14ga wire to the "same node where the audio cable was connected to.".
    • Run the coax to the rear of the logic board, underneath, then out again on the left (when viewing from the rear) to meet with the backside of the power board.
    • Solder the coax to the power board from the back.
    • Solder one end of the 14ga wire to the power board at the hole labeled G2.

     

    What is this node that the audio cable was connected to? The only connections I see there are the signal (to which I solder the center of the coax) and a hole that doesn't connect to anything. G2 is clearly a ground. I can't figure out where the other end of the wire needs to go.

  10. Posted

    Which no-buzz mod are you doing?

     

    When I recapped my Vectrex I removed one wire as well to kill the buzz.

     

    Mitch

     

    The one where you also replace the audio cable running from the logic board to the power board with a length of coax.

  11. Posted

    I finished replacing the electrolytic caps in my Vectrex and moved on to replacing the audio cable with coax to prevent buzzing. I'm having trouble with that part. How do you solder the coax to the underside of the logic board? The place where it needs to go is up against the on-off/volume pot.

  12. Posted · Edited by Frotz

    I have enough parts here to build one test cart. How about it becomes a loaner cart. Guys borrow it, calibrate their Vec's and then pass it on to the next guy.

     

    I'm willing to donate it free.

     

    What happened to this effort? I'm in need of a test cart too. If I could find a source of cartridge PCBs and shells, that should do the trick.

  19. Posted · Edited by Frotz

    I very much miss the "My Posts" feature. Frequently I want to cruise through and check on the replies to some question I posted earlier. When I didn't have time to wade through all the new posts, that feature was extremely handy. Oh, and please bring back the "Mark all as read" function too!

  20. Posted

    Here's what I got in reply to my query:

     

    MY ANSWER THE THE FIRST BIDDER QUESTION WAS INCORRECT.

     

    This auction actually contains both boxes you see in the pictures. There is one console in each box

    and a lot of other controllers and stuff. What you get is what you see in the two pictures is what you get.

    They both have CX 2600 on the label. The two grey controllers are actually LEGO and will be removed unless you want them.

     

    So, I guess there is a heavy sixer in there.

  23. Posted · Edited by Frotz

    Okay, I've acquired a new analogue stick module and installed it in my controller. I plugged it into one of these http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=180392781761 and fired up mupen64plus. Still, even when the stick is centered, the signals coming out of it wander around. It's utterly impossible to start some games, such as Zelda OOT. I've heard that the particular converted I got has bugs in it. How much of this jitter is from the stick and how much is from the converter? I haven't yet tried this on my N64 because I'm waiting on some more components (power adapter).

    It's not the sticks problem. You need to set up a deadzone.

     

    The jitter I'm seeing is that the stick oscillated from somewhere near the center to full deflection and back. I doubt setting a deadzone would touch that or the problem of random buttons firing when they aren't pressed?

  24. Posted

    Okay, I've acquired a new analogue stick module and installed it in my controller. I plugged it into one of these http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=180392781761 and fired up mupen64plus. Still, even when the stick is centered, the signals coming out of it wander around. It's utterly impossible to start some games, such as Zelda OOT. I've heard that the particular converted I got has bugs in it. How much of this jitter is from the stick and how much is from the converter? I haven't yet tried this on my N64 because I'm waiting on some more components (power adapter).

  25. Posted

    My problem with the analog stick is that it works fine for left and right movement but there's no response to up and down movements. (I may have that reversed but you get the idea.) I have tried cleaning and lubricating the stick but still have that problem.

     

    Any ideas?

     

    The stick operates more like a mechanical mouse than the more commonly-encountered dual-pot. You might have gotten lube where it shouldn't, like the little holes in the wheel, the LEDs, or photodiodes. See http://codebook.potchgult.com/stickrepair/stickfix.htm for a walkthrough on correctly cleaning the stick.

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