Frotz

All he's done is a telltale that he's really not a cop. Keep all the communications and you might have around $10 worth of fun sticking him with LEO impersonation charges. If he IS a LEO and sends cops to your house, imagine the fun that could be had when it's revealed that it's all over $10.

Try this. Ask your dad to get you a storage unit just large enough to store all your video game stuff -- and I mean ALL of it. You'll likely be able to better deal with school without the distractions. If you present it this way, I doubt he'll be motivated to just chuck the lot.

Works fine for me, what Stella version have you? Version 2.2 on Linux.

Congrats on getting so far with this project. Do you have any plans for distributing it in cartridges? I must be doing something wrong when trying to play the PAL version. Stella starts it up with the wrong colors, then when I hit ^F, it goes black-and-white.

This reminds me of the guy who has been trying to sell a Kaypro II for $25,000 for the past few years.

I don't think the yellow SNES has to do with heat. One day I put mine away into a closet and didn't touch or look at it for two years or so. Then I decided I wanted to play with it and I discovered that while it was in storage, the bottom half turned yellow.

Longhorn, are you ready to take orders again?

Select boxer screen? Where was that?

Is there no way to toggle rematch-per-opponent versus rematch-per-game using a difficulty switch? Finally, would making the color/BW switch do the appropriate thing make sense?

Hi Frotz, 1) Because the sword in Adventure only points sideways... (I need to make a FAQ for this one!) 2) I wish I knew how to do this. Right now, if there's a collision with the playfield, the player bounces back to his previous position. Maybe someone else knows how to do it like Adventure? 3) See above. In Adventure, I will frequently carry the sword in front or behind me. It works in those directions too.

Very nice work, Igallar. I'll have to remember to refer to your post when I finally get my modboards.

Some more commentary: 1) Is there a reason why I can't shoot fireballs up or down as well as right and left? 2) Adventure allowed the player to move laterally while thrusting against a wall. Here, that's not possible, which makes navigating mazes much more difficult. 3) Why are there stripes in the various walls?

I'd go for the pink mouth to avoid the mustache mistake.

One problem I noticed is that if you hold down game-select, the game number continuously changes. It should be a one-shot.

The cat is out of the bag. The trick has been slashdotted.

In my humble opinion, just two things would make it perfect. Add the face-flip hack and make the spirit bar toggleable with a difficulty switch.

Here are a couple labels just because. It would be nicer if that labelmaker page accepted png files.

Sure, why not?

When is the magic time for those of us who somehow missed out on the preorder?

I can't seem to figure out how to punch yet. The clock seems to run twice as fast as it should.

Are you sure the pillar needs to be so tall? I'm looking at a table lamp right here and the bottom edge of the shade is even with the top of the pillar.

I see no problem with bending the chip leads. The Sync and luma lines take from the board to deduce the amount of bent leads and part count on the board. You would need to add pull ups to each line if you disconnected them. They are clipped to keep the color line clean on the 6-switch. Alternatively you can just lift the pin 9 but this way reduces the amount of bent pins. So I see that making modifications to a chip socket will indeed work. Clip some pins but not others and tap at the bottom close to the socket body. Aside from clipping two resistors and one capacitor, no soldering to the 2600's board needs to be done. Most 4 switchers and all Juniors are not socketed. Thus using this method alienates most of Atari players. I was just suggesting a means of applying the mod. The way I want to mod my own hardware is by the least changes to the old hardware itself.

I see no problem with bending the chip leads. The Sync and luma lines take from the board to deduce the amount of bent leads and part count on the board. You would need to add pull ups to each line if you disconnected them. They are clipped to keep the color line clean on the 6-switch. Alternatively you can just lift the pin 9 but this way reduces the amount of bent pins. So I see that making modifications to a chip socket will indeed work. Clip some pins but not others and tap at the bottom close to the socket body. Aside from clipping two resistors and one capacitor, no soldering to the 2600's board needs to be done.

Consider this as an alternative to bending up chip leads. Take a chip socket and clip the leads that need to be lifted. Solder to this modified socket instead of the TIA. Plug that into the socket where the TIA was. Then plug the TIA into the prepared socket. Another question. Why are the SYNC and LUMA signals (among others) tapped at resistors instead of directly from the TIA?

Given that the Chimera cart project seems to have fizzled out, I was wondering if anyone would be interested in collaborating on a new 2600 flash cart project. Unlike the Chimera, it would only be a flash cart. Hopefully that approach would avoid the problem of trying to do too much.