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About channelmaniac

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    Chopper Commander

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    Mr Neo Fix-It
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  • Location
    Dallas, TX Metromess
  • Interests
    Electronics, Hunting, Gunsmithing, Metal Detecting, and Coin Collecting

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  1. I know there's a strong homebrew scene around the CV and was wondering if anyone has delved through the Z80 sound code for the arcade game Time Pilot '84? They have 3 of those chips on it with some optional caps that can be added in and out of circuit via some 4066 switches. No DAC or other sound chip. I figured it could lead to some interesting sound developments. The MAME team has documented the hardware pretty well. RJ (a non-programmer)
  2. Yeah, the last one I had was just the computer, PS, and A/V cable and I sold it about 15 years ago for $250... so I was going to price this one at $500.
  3. Hey everyone, Trying to find some values on a couple of items... First is a TI-99/4 computer, not 4A. Computer is tested/working... have the matching TI-99/4 monitor for it, but haven't tested it yet. I have the RF modulator, an AV cable I built, speech synth, Extended Basic cart/manuals, and 3 other carts. The other item is the Frog Stickers. I have a Frog Jump and found that, but not Frog Stickers. Yes, I'd sell these. Shipping would be from 75077, but would really really be hesitant to ship a monitor.
  4. I have CPUs, GTIA/CTIA, and ANTIC chips on a pile of CPU boards for Atari 400/800 that I bought surplus. I just have to find time to test them and put them up on my web site. RJ
  5. The system had a drawer on the back right side that you opened, placed the PCB from the cartridge inside, then closed and activated. It was a UV lamp that would erase the ROM while you went shopping. When done, you plugged the cartridge in, chose what game you wanted, and had it written to the now blank cartridge. You paid for the game code (cheaper than a whole cartridge) and went home to play.
  6. Necro Bump from Hades... I had a VIC-20 ROMOX cartridge, still in the plastic bubble and cardboard package. I donated it to the National Videogame Museum in Frisco, TX. They now have the ROMOX programming station, but it's in rough shape. It's being restored and I've donated a motherboard, floppy controller, and power supply (It's based on an original IBM PC) towards the restoration. They sent the hard drive off and had all the data copied off before even powering it up. I'm helping to repair one of the proprietary cards in it that has damage from a leaking NiCd. If you have cartridges that you don't know what to do with, ping John Hardie. I believe his handle here is CX2K.
  7. sellmyretro.com is in Europe but is a great place to buy keyboards, software, mods, and more for the old systems. That's where I picked up some replacement keyboards and composite mod kits for my Sinclairs.
  8. Yes... the chips he removed were not 32k x 8, but rather 64k x 4 bit. They are "4464" or equivalent part number DRAMs. RJ
  9. Started off at a RS plus Computer Center back in '88, left from 01-8197 where I was a manager in '93, 1 month shy of 5 years. They were shitty to work for as a manager. All but one of the District Managers I worked with were horribly abusive people. Oh, the stories.
  10. That web site is a cool place to buy parts and new aftermarket items from Europe. You can find replacement mylar keyboards over there to replace the originals that like to crack.
  11. There are 2 possibilities for the ULA chip: ULA2C184E or the newer ULA2C210E The older 184E doesn't have the back porch on the NTSC signal and many TVs display a very dark screen because of that. You can either try an old B&W TV or a composite video kit that recreates the missing signal. This composite video mod board works great and I've used 3 of them in the past: http://www.sellmyretro.com/offer/details/ZX8-CCB---video-output-for-ZX81-3712 It fits inside the RF Modulator if you pull the guts out of it. RJ
  12. Here you go! The code is programmed on 2 TMS2516 ROMs from Texas Instruments. ROM_Images.zip
  13. The small red isn't a pot... it's a trimmer capacitor to tweak the crystal into giving the correct frequency output.
  14. Picked up one of these at a computer surplus store while out on a business trip... Wasn't even sure what it was when I bought it. I only bought it for the chip clip and ribbon cable that was on it, but when I opened it up... WOW! "Diagnostic clip I, C 1980, Commodore, Made in USA" I couldn't find much for it online... so I sent pics and code dumps to Andre Fachat since his page said he was looking for info. Well, tonight I had some spare minutes so I traced out the board. Enjoy! Raymond
  15. Thanks Ed! I'm planning on posting lots of pics of the build as I go along with it. I've decided that the words Atari 2600 will replace the Magic City and the extra row of lights above it will have color stripes around them on the playfield representing the colored stripes in Breakout. As you hit the targets or roll over the lanes that spell out Atari 2600 that light row just above the letters will light up for each character. The 2nd row will start out white. The center target just below the 3 pop bumpers will have the Atari symbol painted on the playfield and when you hit that the 2nd row of lights will turn blue. Each time you hit a target the corresponding 2nd row light will change colors for the different colored rows in Breakout: Blue, Green, Yellow, Orange, Orange-Red, and Red then off (black) Score values will go up each time: 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 100, then zero once the target light is off. It's ambitious and I have a lot of learning to do on using variables in Arduino code, but I know a few folks that I can ask about this if I get stuck. Dallas Makerspace rocks! Different playfield plastics will represent different games and the 4 upper ones have switches to count hits. I'm thinking of setting up skill shots so if you hit the Yar then hit the Atari symbol it's 200 points, same for hitting Missile Command then the Atari symbol, etc. I don't want too many points since the game only has a 4 position EM score reel. I have the art thanks to an Oklahoma member who scanned it at 600 DPI into a set of TIFF files. Now I just have to figure out how to actually get the files sized right and in the shape of the existing plastics. I'll have to lean on a local arcade friend whose father owns a printing business for how to do that. I'm paying him for the artwork. Raymond
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