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channelmaniac

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Posts posted by channelmaniac

  1. Posted

    If the all black with lines looks like a good solid signal to the TV then I would think a dirty cart connector, foreign object in the cart connector, a bad power supply, dirty switch, or a bad RIOT chip (6532 - RAM, I/O, and Timer)

     

    Do you have a multimeter? If so, check for a good 5v level on the chips.

     

    RJ

  3. Posted

    Arcade operators have been rejuvenating monitors for years by putting "cap kits" in them. They are just a bag of caps to replace most of the electrolytic caps in the monitors to make the look good again.

     

    The first generation surface mount caps have been NOTORIOUS for problems. Look at all the TurboGrafx systems that have sound and video problems related to those caps... also older Sony and other camcorders that need to have all their electrolytics shotgunned to fix.

     

    The SNK Neo Geo and the Capcom CPS1 systems are also systems that requires mass cap replacement. The sound subsystem works but the amplifier section is dead - the caps that fail could be any in that section so it's easier to just shotgun the whole section to keep it running for years longer.

     

    Don't discount those caps!

     

    If you have power supply caps flaking out in systems you'll have strange intermittant problems due to noisy power. Atari arcade games with the big blue capacitor in the bottom of the cabinet comes to mind here. Also, any arcade system that has had a cheapo switching power supply installed will need to have them checked after a few years. The caps will dry out or rupture - either from the top by splitting or from the bottom by blowing the rubber plug out.

     

    RJ

  4. Posted

    Grey screen issue does sound like a bad PLA chip... It's the #1 problem source in the C64.

     

    As for power supplies, I usually have some laying around the shop from dead systems I've scrapped for the chips.

     

    If you still need one, ping me.

     

    RJ

  5. Posted

    I don't know about the Vectrex....

     

    On arcade games you can discharge them to the chassis on old monitors without any issues. On newer ones with EEPROM chips or on older all-in-one computer systems I would HIGHLY recommend using the resistor.

     

    On the old Mac, Mac +, Mac SE, and Mac SE/30 all-in-one systems there were a couple of 74xx parts that would consistently fry if you discharged the CRT without the resistor... On some of the newer monitors you can fry the digital circuitry.

     

    RJ

  6. Posted

    I got the Xilinx chips in today, they shipped super fast from that Quest place and from taking a look they sent me the right ones. Now I have to find out how to get the chip surface mounted. In case anyone ever needs to order from these guys you have to order 3 at a time (the order has to be over $25 so 3 of these chips or 1 of these and something else that puts it over the top).

     

    That shouldn't be too hard to swap out. That's something I can do or if you want to be brave, I have a write-up on my repair log section at newlifegames.net on how to replace a surface mount chip on the cheap.

     

    If you try to do it yourself I'd HIGHLY recommend you practice on a couple of parts boards first.

     

    RJ

  7. Posted

    ...If I buy them off the internet (www.arcadecomponents.com) they charge 10$ PER EPROM, which easily amounts to a programmer if you buy more...

     

    Kim

     

    Hi Kim & everyone,

     

    I really do need to update that pricing. I'm going to change it to $4 for the first and $2 for each additional one but just haven't done it yet.

     

    RJ

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