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channelmaniac

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Posts posted by channelmaniac

  1. Posted · Edited by channelmaniac

    Sorry for the delay. Been out for vacation the first 2 weeks of August and then catching up at work this past week. Here's a pic of the boards...

     

    A is on the bottom

    B is in the middle

    C is on the top

     

    I put 2 next to each other so you can see the top & bottom of the boards.

    post-20064-12824566161_thumb.jpg

  2. Posted

    Hi everyone,

     

    I've picked up a slew of NOS empty cart boards and wanted to post 'em up here in case there was an interest in them.

     

    Board A: An Atari 2600 cart (2716 pinout) without the inverter... Atari # C010789 Rev O

     

    Board B: An Atari 400/800 cart board. Takes 2 2364 8k x 8 bit 24 pin ROMs. Atari # C012963

     

    Board C: An Atari 400/800 cart board. Takes 2 2364 8k x 8 bit 24 pin ROMs. 3rd Party board

     

    75 cents each. Whatever doesn't get sold here in the next couple of weeks will be put up on my website at .99 each.

     

    Thanks!

     

    RJ

  3. Posted

    Oh my. Well.. Tried the system when I stopped home on work break. Sound! Still funky coloring. Occasional rolling. I removed the mods. Still funky coloring.. then..... black. Now nothing. Garbled screens occasionally. icon_thumbsdown.gif

     

     

    You sure the AC adapter didn't die? Check the voltages on the CV system with the power on to see if it's at the correct levels.

  6. Posted

    Self taught after reading a few books back in the early 80s. Fast forward to '93 and I took a class from PACE Industries on surface mount soldering with their gear. That was an amazing class for learning and perfecting techniques. :D

     

    I still use their gear today.

  7. Posted

    The resemblance of this thread and the one at vintage-computer is uncanny. Are you the same person?

     

    If not, please refer to the thread there also for reference. Fixing things can be fascinating, educational and frustrating all at the same time.

     

    The keyboard problems on the SX-64 won't be CIA related, instead it will be dirty keys which is a common thing on those.

     

    Disassemble the keyboard and clean the gold/copper contacts on the PC board itself with a pink pencil eraser (NOTHING more abrasive than that!!!) then clean with alcohol. Reassemble and they keyboard will work well once again.

     

    Just beware that the keyboard is a real PITA to take apart to clean.

     

    Have you looked down inside the cartridge slot to see if there's junk shorting out the contacts? That's a common issue.

     

    Also, before you declare bad RAM chips, try swapping out the 3 ROMs for the ones in the old C64 you have. You could have a bad Kernal ROM, etc...

     

    Do carts play in the system OK? If so, look at the BASIC ROM.

  11. Posted

    That 7404 on perfboard is some kind of mod... the empty socket on the drive is for a terminator resistor pack. That should be installed on the drive that is farthest from the controller and NOT on the drive in between. Think of it like a SCSI bus terminator.

  13. Posted · Edited by channelmaniac

    You should check the upper most address lines on the cartridge slot for continuity to the CPU:

     

    CPU Pin: Signal: Cart slot pin

    ---------------------------

    2: A12: 24

    3: A13: 19

    4: A14: 20

     

    And the enable lines from U5 to the Cartridge slot for continuity

     

    U5 pin: Signal: cart slot pin

    -------------------------

    11: EN_80: 18

    10: EN_A0: 22

    9: EN_C0: 2

    7: EN_E0: 27

     

    If those lines are corroded through then the larger carts will not work.

  17. Posted

    Hello,

     

    Instructions for installing a Dual BIOS mod and for doing the +5v only memory are on the downloads section of my website.

     

    Feel free to download them and use them if you have your own parts to install.

     

    The dual BIOS is easy to create if you have an EPROM programmer. Simply program the bottom half of a 27128 with the standard BIOS and the upper half with the no-title-delay BIOS then follow the instructions to install it.

    • Like 1

  20. Posted

    So what are my chances of finding a chip and soldering a new one on? Probably need a second scrap CV with a different issue, I bet..

     

    my main deck still works well at least

     

    There are 8 video RAM chips in the CV. You can always remove all 8 and modify the system to use +5v only DRAM. This will make it run cooler and more reliably.

     

    The current DRAM in the system is 4116. These require +5, +12, and -5v. The +12 and +5v is switched by the CV's power switch and the -5v is always on. The modification removes the +12v and -5v connections from the chips and replaces the chips with sockets and either 4516 or 4164 DRAM chips.

     

    These 5v only DRAMs don't suffer from the dirty power switch issues that the 4116s have.

     

    I have complete kits on my site. They come with the chips, sockets, and a short piece of kynar wire to install a required jumper. Instructions are on the downloads section if you have the chips and want to do it yourself.

     

    http://www.arcadecomponents.com/modkits.html

     

    RJ

    • Like 1

  21. Posted

    The Sound works perfect with the Atari Module. Plus if you want to use the RF it works also.

     

    Please.

     

    Let me keep this thread about my single jack A/V composite mod, and customer comments.

     

    I am glad to hear the Expansion module #1 ATARI 2600 adapter works fine with your composite video modification. In the past that was a issue with the ADAM computer and other peoples modifications of the Colecovision.

     

    If you tap on C88 for the audio output it's right in the middle between the audio output of the CV and the audio from the Expansion Module which makes it the perfect place to nab the audio. ;)

  22. Posted

    I used a hammer. Just repeatedly whack it on the short side of the seam all the way around the power supply until you crack the seam.

     

    The one I fixed was FULL of bad solder joints. I just shotgunned the whole thing and re-assembled it. There were 3 component legs that had broken loose from their poor solder connections.

     

    The case can be superglued or epoxied back together when you finish. Use tape to hold it together until the glue/epoxy sets.

     

    Hell, while in there you could shotgun the caps.

  24. Posted

    All this talk about replacing capacitors is making me want to get a better soldering iron, mine cooked itself (ok, just the tip). But it was a cheapie anyway with a large-ish tip not good for fixing anything smt.

     

    GRR I need a new one :x

     

    You'd be shocked if you saw the tip I used for surface mount work. It's pretty big...

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