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UberArcade

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Posts posted by UberArcade


  1. This thing looks very well built, I'm imagining that since it says it works with the 2600 it would work on the TI-99 with 2600 controller adapter. I'm tempted to buy one

     

    I wish I had a TI-99 to test it on. It is wired the same as the 7800 Proline if you have one of those around to test with.


  2. I am ready to take sales for the 7800 Prosystem Joystick. I have parts on hand to assemble 11. Orders after the initial 11 will be pre-orders for the next batch and will take 3-4 weeks to be ready. Hopefully sooner.

     

    A lot of the people that expressed interested did so before I had the final design and price so I am not sticking to that list. Plus another competitor showed up. I am asking that you send me a PM to order. Hopefully this works out ok and doesn't upset anybody. I shouldn't have a problem filling all orders in a reasonable amount of time. I also answer emails and don't plan to disappear. :)

     

    The joystick is wired like the 7800 Proline joystick. So it has the same system compatibility. Atari 2600, XE, etc.

     

    Features:

    Aluminum Case

    Leaf-switch buttons

    Modified Sanwa JLF 8-way joystick with circle restrictor, silent switches, heavy spring

    Aluminum ball top

    Polycarbonate laminated overlay

    9 foot replaceable cord

     

    I have spent the weekend playing a variety of games with this joystick and I love it. To me this joystick is the right size, weight, and has the correct feel for these games. Pac Man will never be as good as playing it with the original midway joystick but this is pretty good. I didn't feel cheated while playing it. I was skeptical of the Sanwa verses a real leaf switch joystick, but with the mods to it this joystick is fantastic.

     

    Overlay:

    The overlay turned out really good. I ended up making the silver band darker than the original 7800. CMYK printing just doesn't do silver very good. The first proof was lighter but wasn't sharp. Making it a little darker turned out a lot better.

     

    How to Order:

    Send me a PM and let me know which side you want the joystick on. Also give me your email and shipping address.

     

    Price is $200 plus shipping. Priority Mail $17.00. International shipping is fine just ask for a price.

     

     

    Feel free to ask questions. Thanks!

     

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    • Like 10

  3. I have determined that the whole wonky resistor circuit is not needed at all, if you are targeting the 7800. With a slightly bigger MCU, I could do dual joysticks and 6 buttons on the 7800 (no multiplexing, you could technically press all of them at once). I already ordered a few next generation PIC's from Thailand, that aren't the size of a POKEY. These new PIC's have something I have not seen before, pin assignment of hardware functions, absolutely brilliant for circuit board design. Not only that, but you can clock them at 16MHz, without adding a crystal.

     

    Anyone making arcade controllers, you may want to take notes, all you need is a cable that has all 9 wires connected, resistors are not needed. ;)

     

    So you are saying Resistance is futile?

    • Like 3

  4. Very nice! No idea how I missed this thread for this long, but I'd certainly be interested if there are any available.

     

    I'll make them until interest dries up. I ordered 30 overlays and I think that will last me a while. At this point it will be easy to get more parts if I need them.


  5. Have you considered adding a switch (or switching circuit) so that the stick could also be used as a two button controller (equivalent to 'B' and 'C' on a Mega Drive controller) on the 2600 too?

     

    I'm sure I'm not the only one who'd readily buy one for that feature. :)

     

    Both buttons will work when using it on a 2600 just like on the 7800 proline joystick. Unless I am misunderstanding the question.


  6. The printing issues have been straightened out and the overlays have been ordered.

     

    The leaf switch joystick didn't work out. Too hard to reliably source them and not many options. A lot of the ones you can get are not good. I am going with a modified Sanwa. It has quiet switches and other mods. Very different than a stock one. Plays great.

     

    Still going with leaf switch buttons. I already have them.

     

    I should be assembling everything soon.


  7. My question a few posts back went unanswered. I am interested in both peoples' controllers now so I can have different kinds. Both of your guys' controllers work with the 2-button required Atari 7800 games such as Asteroids, right?

    Yep, they work with 2-button 7800 games.


  8. I haven't made an official list. I was going to announce when I had some ready to ship and let people claim them at that time. I plan to make enough so people shouldn't worry about missing out. The first batch will be 10 just to get them out quicker. I'll do some right and left oriented ones.

     

    I'll see if the printer can do some non Fuji ones in the batch. It is only about a 10% black difference so it is more of a watermark kind of thing. Not very prominent.


  9. I plan to have the first batch ready by the end of October at the latest.

     

    I solder the wires to the 9 pin connector that the joystick cable goes to, but the buttons and joystick have crimp connectors on the switches. Almost all arcade machines have crimp connectors on the control panel so you can easily change those out. They are tight though. You can disconnect them by hand if you use enough force. Usually helps to use pliers. They won't come loose.


  10. Well this has gotten weird. I feel like a Wal-Mart just opened up next door to undercut my price. This has definitely killed my buzz. I was excited to make these and had plans to make a Robotron one and so on if these were a hit. I'll just have to see how it goes.

     

    My intention is to make the ultimate 7800 joystick using the best parts out there. As somebody who has restored arcade games for about 17 years I know the difference in playing Robotron with an original wico stick and a cheap microswitch stick. If you aren't going to use great parts then why bother making one of these joysticks in the first place.

     

    Here is a picture of the overlays I picked up on Friday. I was going to assemble one to show, but I have a question about the black level on these and just in case the printer agrees to run some replacements I didn't want to use any yet. I'll talk to them on Monday. Going in the case will be a black ball top stick with red leaf switch buttons.

     

    The price I am looking at is between $175-$200. The parts I am using actually cost me around $120. It is an aluminum case. True short leaf swtich buttons with button holders. An awesome joystick that costs about $40. 9 foot replaceable cord. Wiring harness soldered to a 9 pin connector and that has a little pcb holding the resistors and diode. And of course the vinyl overlays which have a minimum print quantity. Even polished black joystick bolts aren't cheap ($2+shipping for 4). That may seem like it leaves a lot of profit, but it takes me a while to solder the wiring harness, drill the cases, test them (the fun part), eventually deal with payments, box them up, drive to the post office. I love the hobby, but it also needs to make sense for me to do them.

     

    I guess these will be for somebody who wants the best. You can make one cheaper. You can get an ABS plastic case pretty cheap. You can use scrap wood. Zippy joysticks are about $10, etc.

     

    I am not going to try to compete on price or try to beat the other guy to market. These are almost ready, but I can't make the joysticks show up any faster. I will build these bad ass joysticks when I get all the parts and I will gladly sell them to whoever is still interested.

     

    I'll keep you posted.

     

    Thanks,

     

     

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    • Like 6
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