Trinity

A piece of strategy you may find useful: actually allowing asteroids (or other things) to hit you if it puts you in an advantageous position afterward. For instance, if there's a UFO or Robot that you can't get to without getting hit by something (usually an asteroid), then move toward your target as far as possible and take the hit anyway. You'll suffer the one point momentarily, but the points you'll get from the UFO or Robot will put you ahead of what you started with, minus a few seconds. Since it does cost time, care should be taken about when to use this tactic, since, being a calculated risk, it's not bulletproof. And needless to say (but I will anyway), it doesn't pay to do this with Fighters, since you'll only break even (assuming you hit it) at cost of precious seconds. A few seconds doesn't sound like a big deal, but when you've only got 2:16, every second counts. Another thing you may have noticed which I will talk about in case anyone's interested: don't approach enemies vertically from above. This is a general rule, and there will be instances when you'll be able to just barely hit the top of a Robot's antennae (?) or an enemy will pop up under your crosshair or something, but a downward approach is generally inadvisable for two reasons: 1.) Something I call the "Polar Compression Effect," by which your ship is more maneuverable on the horizontal plane (East/West) than on the vertical plane (North/South; relatively, these poles feel "compressed." I'm sure there is a mathematical reason for this in the programming, and you'll notice it in games like Missile Command and Centipede, as well as many others on many other consoles.), and 2.) Enemies tend to drift downward. UFOs are particularly difficult to hit from above at medium-close range, thanks to a combination of the Polar Compression Effect and their being relatively flat objects; Robots, being taller, are the easiest, but still difficult. Whatever the object, if it's far away, you should be able to get away with an above approach since you'll have more time to position yourself. If it's closer, don't bother; you'll sluggishly chase it only to (probably) get hit. If you approach from below, it'll come to you...right into your line of fire. Your best bet is to engage the enemy horizontally and/or from beneath. (The above strategies apply mainly to the fast/"hard" Star Ship games.) Re: "If you are this good..." Well, like I said, I got lucky. Scores in the high 70s and higher are usually flukes. The randomization of enemies makes consistently astronomical scores unlikely. My scores usually average in the 60s. Re: "...You must post a video! " That's one of those things I never got around to for a number of reasons, not the least of which is not enough people give enough of a shit about Star Ship to make it worth my while. But, it's good to see more people interested in this underrated game. Star Ship has always been a favorite of mine -I find its simplicity and blockiness endearing- and it used to be just me and two or three other people (usually Godzilla and Apolloboy) mentioning the game in "Underrated Games" threads or defending it in "Worst Game Ever" threads...and basically being ignored or laughed at. If I get a chance in the near future, I'll see about making a video. Maybe I'll come up with a score worth posting! That was a great post! I will try to get a better score..... "try"

Damn that is a good score! (respect) Don't know if trin will ever be able to beat that...

F-ing open the goddamn thing.... (trin jumps up and down) For all you know, there could be a brick in there...

I don't see how that is possible. Just lucky. Enemies are randomized; I just happened to get shit-tons of Space Robots. Also, in Game 4, since enemies come at you faster, there are more opportunities to score, since obviously a lot more stuff comes at you during the course of the 2:16. Provided you can hit most of them, your score is going to get up there. That's how it's possible. Yeah,,, But what about those asteroids... They knock your score right back down. If you are this good, You must post a video!

Great score!!!

I don't see how that is possible.

I could not resist to open it...

Yeah trin noticed. Did anyone notice: The 2600 joystick in the movie Gran Torino?

http://fruttenboel.verhoeven272.nl/Gameboy/data/7805.jpg Should get 5 volts on the output.

Well, the game does not get any harder. It is the two minute, something time limit. And the fact that if you crash once,,, your screwed.

another spell nazi... lol

Outer Space, Also known as Star Ship. "personal gauntlet"... lol I just want to see if it is possible to get a better score.

I dare anyone here to top this... Game 1 difficulty switch B.

Yes I am familiar with the 2600. I have a light sixer and the reset and select switches just seem smoother to push down than my four switch. The system was in a dusty, dirty indoor flea market for months, maybe years. When I opened the system up the metal shield around the cartridge slot was practically rusted onto the bottom casing. Maybe the fact that it was in such wet, dirty, disgusting conditions could be the reason of the stickiness. There is problem with the operation of the switches, the feel of pushing them down is a little irritating. Just get some of this, http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...ProdsPerPage=60 Works like a charm. And brings the paddle controlers back to life also. Well worth the $11 bucks. But take care when using the stuff, the can is really over pressureized. You don't want it to go everywhere so wad a paper towel in around what you want to clean and lube to catch to overspray. Just open up the atari and blast each switch with the cleaner and then flip them about 25-50 times each and you will be good to go. Be sure to show us some pictures of your 'new' Atari! In and out.

Thanks man! And I really like your comics!

I have always used the original atari power supply. I used to play alot of supercharger games on it, and now that I think about it (it has been years and years) that was when I first started haveing trouble with the unit. I'm not saying the supercharger caused it to fail, but the extra current draw would not have helped a faulty 7805. BTW, On the back of the package the 7805 came it is says maximum input voltage is 35 volts. With an operating temperature of 0C to 150C. And an output current of up to 1 amp. It still stays real warm to the touch, I guess this is normal. I had it running all day yesterday, And it is on as I type now. Running rock solid. The only other problem I had with the unit was that I had to adjust the color a little bit. And that was easy. In the picture, my orginal Atari on top had it since 1981. Then bottom left, my sunnyvale four switcher and then another four switcher I picked up on ebay a few weeks ago.

Ok, You guys were right! I just replaced the 7805 voltage regulator... My first atari runs again!!! A little sloppy on the soldering but I got it in! But I burnt my finger on the solder pencil. (oh it hurts)... Just as much as it feels good to have my first 2600 run again after all these years! Thanks a lot guys!!! Atari Age ROCKS!!!!

Well I just checked the 7805 with my meter. It has 12 volts going in. And only 1 volt going out. And today it will only start for about 1-2 seconds. To short of a time to test it under load. :/

Thanks for the advice guys. Well radio shack has the 7805 for $1.59. My line of thinking is that that big capacitor is going bad (starting to short), and that why the regulator is getting so warm. Though I'm not sure how warm they get under normal operating conditions. But this one starts out cold, then warms up to 'real' warm and the in about 5 minutes the system goes dead. You know, I think I noticed the colors start to change to off normal color just before it crashes too. I will get to radio shack and get the capacitor and the regulator, And let you all know how it go's. Now my problem is my soldering gun... It is broken,,, And a need a soldering gun to fix it... (head wall)

You think??? That's gonna make me need all my skills to replace. :/ Anyway to test before I try?

This is my first atari, the one I've owned since 1982. I thought it was dead, but I had to try again. And I got it to work!!! But here's the deal, The only way to get it to start is you to have the power on. And then push the power plug in.. once or twice. Once it works it works. You can wiggle this on this or that,,, ok... But turn it off,, it will not restart without turning off and unpluging and pushing the power plug in and out a few times. (with the power on). Once it is working it runs perfect, except the voltage regulator starts getting real warm, Not burning hot... but real warm. Then 5 minutes the system just seems to power off... nothing at all. I can get it to work again,,, But only by leaving the power switch on and unpluging and re pluging the power cord into the jack. Once it powers up,, I can wiggle the power cord jack and the power switch no failure. The power wall wart is trusted and good. And the mobo looks good all around no cold solder joints. What could the problem be?

New toy!

In the arcade version the smaller ufo aims for you, The larger one shoots randomly.

trin need a vid of that....