thgill

I know where I can buy these new, I am just looking to save some money and maybe get them a little quicker. Would like the HxC to be the sd card Rev C version. Also would like an ultra Satan or Satandisk. Thanks!

Woah.. Didn't know Rawwrite would write them correctly. I will need to try that. Will it also write MSA images back correctly?

You can use FloImg: http://atari.8bitchip.info/floimgd.php HOWEVER you must use a regular internal floppy drive connected to a floppy disk controller. It will NOT work with a USB drive. Providing you have the correct floppy disk setup, it works great.

1 cable left.

I recently did a run of Jaguar RGB and Basic video cables. More details here: http://www.atariage....-av-rgb-cables/ I have 2 of the Basic S-video/Composite and stereo cables left. $30 shipped each. I accept Paypal only. Edit: 1 sold. Just 1 cable left.

Today only, I am willing to accept $100 shipped for the last remaining boxed and like new Jaguar.

The used Jag and 1 of the "like new" Jag's are sold. Just 1 like new one left!!

I have 3 boxed Jag's for sale in the Marketplace.

Massive Atari For Sale listing. Rules: I accept Paypal only. Shipping is not included in the price unless stated otherwise. First up: I have 3 boxed Atari Jaguars. All 3 boxes have some wear to them. 2 of the systems are in like new condition still in the plastic and looks to have never been used. 1 system was used, but in excellent condition and includes Cybermorph with it. All 3 systems have: 1 controller RF unit AC adapter Jag console Paperwork Insert and box. I have tested all 3 consoles and they are in perfect working condition. I am asking $110 for each for the 2 like new systems and $95 for the used system with Cybermorph. The used Jag and 1 of the "like new" Jag's are sold. Just 1 like new one left!! Plenty of Atari 5200 games and systems along with 2600 stuff as I have time.

First unit was built on saturday. Just waiting on one last component to finish it off before I post some photos of it.

Son of a .... I have been looking for another STe.

Can anyone take some nice high res photos of the back of the Jag with just the JagLink cable plugged in? I want to make sure there is plenty of clearance for both my A/V cable and the JagLink cable to be plugged in at the same time.

Most of my parts have arrived so I can start building my first couple test units. I have decided on using a DB9 connector for the RGB connector. Probably makes the most sense in the end and makes it easy (and cheap) to adapt to most RGB monitors. I will still offer separately DB9 to Atari 13 pin adapters and DB9 to HD15 adapters for folks who have a 4 connector BNC cable for their RGB monitor (like Sony PVM and etc). Question: Is there any interest in a S-video/Composite only version? I am considering offering a cheaper A/V only version with s-video, composite and stereo audio and then a deluxe version that offers those features along with the RGB. Thoughts on that? I want to build and sell what the community wants.

I am 99% sure it has the good DMA chip in it if I recall correctly. Though its probably worth verifying. Also, its still worth asking the seller if they know. I agree if you are buying from eBay its probably a waste of time, but wouldn't hurt to check. Since you don't use that STe much, how about selling it back to me...

One thing you will find that's pretty nice about the Atari ST series (in comparison to Amiga's) is that they do a pretty good job of switching between NTSC and PAL modes for most games. And there are 60to50Hz apps to force PAL games to run correctly on NTSC machines. However this isn't 100% foolproof as I have ran into a few games and some euro demo's that will not run at the correct speed on an NTSC ST machine. But generally speaking they are pretty good in this respect. Also, if you find that you are wanting to play mostly PAL software on an NTSC machine, you can replace your TOS chips with UK PAL TOS chips to force the machine to always boot up in 50Hz mode. Or, you could be hardcore like me and just import a PAL STe from the UK. Need to either use a stepup transformer or replace the psu in that case since the built in power supplies aren't auto switching.

Interesting topic. Just received a boxed copy of Raiden and found the music was muted. Pressing 0 on the keypad unmuted it. However, if you press the Pause button and Press A to access the Music volume control, if the audio is muted, this won't allow you to unmute the audio and raise the volume. Kind of an odd design decision. So if someone doesn't know to press the 0 keypad button, they may think their cart is defective since the music bar won't adjust. Also whats weird is that most of the used Jag games I have bought lately have either had the music (and sometimes sound effects) turned all the way down or muted.

For the ST series, I would suggest either a STe or Mega STe. The Mega STe also benefits from having a switchable faster CPU. It can run at the standard ST/STe speed of 8 MHz or be switched to a faster 16MHz. When buying a Mega STe make sure the machine has an internal HD AND the scsi controller card. This is important because many times when someone sells a used MSTe that doesn't have the HD installed, there is a good chance the SCSI card was removed at some point and that SCSI card is very difficult and expensive to find on its own. However if you have an UltraSatan its not a really big deal. MSTe machines tend to run quite a bit more money than a regular 520 or 1040 STe machine. Unless you get a really, really early STe, all of them (STe and MSTe) can be upgraded to 4 megabytes of ram using cheap 30 pin simms. Some of the earliest 520/1040 STe machines need SIP memory chips to upgrade them. However you are very unlikely to run into one of these machines. Probably better chance of getting struck by lightning. However, if considering a 520 or 1040STe, I would watch out for the revision of the DMA chip. The DMA chip controls a couple different things, however the problem is with hard drives via the ASCI port (thats what external hard drives and things like the UltraSatan plug into). The early STe DMA were known to corrupt data on hard drives and generally advised to be replaced. The chip is soldered in so it would take some hardware skills to replace it. The good DMA chip is marked as: C398739-001A The bad DMA chip is marked as: C025913-38 PH23-001A This is a largish chip located on the motherboard under the floppy drive region. Here is a pic of a good one: Definitely ask the seller if they know which it has. Doesn't affect the MSTe that I know of.

Ohhhhh Raiden. I have a boxed copy on its way to me as we speak.

As a composite sync, the signal itself is fine, but it isn't buffered (unlike the other outputs), so it can cause problems with long cables. Plus, it's not a vertical sync, so monitors that expect real vertical sync may not work fine. All of this is theoritical, I didn't try out in practice. I would use a few logic gates to extract the vertical sync signal, and buffer it at the same time. It cannot hurt, and it's cheaper than a sync stripper chip.I think the CatBox does something like this (but since I don't have one, I can't check). Hmm. I will have to experiment a bit with this once my parts arrive. The only monitor I am really concerned with as far as H+V sync is the Goldstar version of the SC1224. According to the Catboxs manual, all the versions of the SC1224 can use both H+V sync and all but the Goldstar can use composite sync. Basically the Goldstar version is the odd man out as far as using composite sync is concerned. I am wondering if I can cheat and use the composite sync for the vertical sync on the SC1224 monitors? I will try and see if my SC1224 with work like this. I only have one version of the SC1224, I think its the Samsung.

Beware. The output labelled "vertical sync" on the pinouts actually outputs composite sync on the Jaguar (actually, you can choose either vertical or composite mode in software, but it's always set to composite because some other parts of the hardware wouldn't work correctly otherwise). I don't know if any/all RGB monitors handle this correctly.Besides, those outputs are unbuffered, so it may be problematic to connect them directly to a monitor input. So, are you saying that the composite sync out on the Jag isn't suitable for usage? Better to use the composite video and a sync stripper circuit for the composite sync? I wonder how the Catbox handles the Vertical sync then? Because it claims to have to output both composite and vertical sync. Scart is a no go for North America folks.

Keep in mind also that Best has new Jag CD units for $175:

Parts have been ordered for my first 3 units. One for my testing and the 2 others for my beta testers. I am thinking of using the 13 pin Atari connector for the RGB end connector and offering a small 13 pin din to HD15 adapter optional for folks that want that. Probably $8 for the adapter. Everyone ok with that?

Yeah, thats composite sync.

Is H+V sync important for you guys, or just composite sync?

I am reluctant to quote a specific price since I obviously need to get parts in and get an idea of what the run will cost. And obviously the more of these I build, the better price break I get on parts. I was thinking something like $30 to $35 per unit. This is just a ballpark range though assuming I build 10 to start with. However, I know there are several other Jag forums, so spread the word and if the demand is high enough I will make a larger first run with perhaps better pricing. I hope to show a prototype in the next week or so. Todd