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flickertail

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About flickertail

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    Chopper Commander
  • Birthday 06/01/1971

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  1. The replacement boards for my hyperkin joystick have arrived. And they fit. I was really worried that they wouldn't fit. Still waiting on the extra button PCBs to arrive. I also still need to do some 3D printing and some minor case modification. See attached video. js01.mp4 js02.mp4
  2. I had to do some hardware adjustments, and there is still more code development to be done, but I was able to compete two new controller modes. Actually, I have a fifth mode completed, but because I need to write Atari assembly code to test it, it'll be a bit before I know that it is really working. Code refinement is next, and then I might have a PCB made so I don't have to worry about my prototype falling a part while I write Atari code for it. That said, attached are 4 video for four different modes: SNES controller playing River Raid SNES controller playing 7800 Baby Pac-Man SNES controller with 3-fire button mode demonstrated in Testcart SNES controller playing Super Breakout snes2atari-river_raid.mp4 snes2atari-baby_pac-man.mp4 snes2atari-testcart.mp4 snes2atari-s_breakout.mp4
  3. I've been experimenting with using a SNES controller with 2600/7800 games using a Raspberry Pi Pico micro controller, with the end goal of using USB controllers instead of SNES controllers. Even though the Pico has support to be a USB host controller, I haven't yet attempted to work with the USB libraries, so USB game controller support will have to wait. For now, using SNES controller is allowing me to move development along of the C code. For those who are curious, the device uses less than $10 in parts. The device is powered off the joystick port, and now has 4 working modes: Standard 2600 Joystick Standard 7800 Joystick 3-fire button 2600 Joystick P0-0 Paddle Controller I'm going to post more video on my blog later today, but since the forums get more discussion, I thought I'd post a video of the Paddle controller mode in action here to generate some discussion. Attached is a video of the device in use with Super Breakout. snes2atari-s_breakout.mp4
  4. Attached is a video of my experimentation using the Rpi Pico to convert SNES controller input into 2600/7800 joystick inputs. I apologize for the video not being better. But you can see how I can use the SNES shoulder buttons to control the flippers on 7800 Baby Pac-Man. I also tested it with 7800 Xenophobe, but I didn't record video for the xeno test. Though it worked great. Better than the actual 7800 controllers I have for it. It was also like playing the arcade version. This time I didn't use the Hyperkin bluetooth version of the SNES controller because I got tired of waiting it to pair every time I rebooted the Atari. The code is written in C and instantly boots to functionality. It currently has two modes: Standard 2600 Joystick mode - where the Y and A fire buttons are the 2600 fire button and the directional hat is the 2600 joystick directions Standard 7800 Joystick mode - where the L-Shoulder, Y, and B buttons are the 7800 left fire button and the R-Shoulder, X, and A buttons are the 7800 fire buttons... and the directional hat is the 7800 joystick directions The "Select" button on the SNES controller toggles between the two modes. The indicator of which is the built-in Pico LED. Blinks once per second for 2600 mode, twice per second for 7800 mode. Now that it's working, I figure I'll have three additional modes by the end of the weekend: Stella Plus mode where the shoulder buttons are the 9/5 pin fire buttons for the 3-button fire button configuration. Stella++ mode, my custom 4-button fire button configuration... which I'll need to re-write 2600 asm code for soon. Stella Paddle mode for 1-player paddle games. snes-pico-test.mp4
  5. Thanks for the reply. It seems to me that it should be something like that. Not that I'm knowledgeable on the 7800 innards. But I will take another shot at him and try to convince him that it's an easy fix.
  6. While my 7800 works, the video out on it is loose, so it is static-y from time to time until I push it back into place. Probably not a long term solution. I'm sure it's about ready to fall off. I was wondering if anyone knows of a trusted person who fixes such things. I am not all that handy with a soldering iron, so I'd prefer not to fix it myself. I've looked locally and there is a guy in town here who fixes game consoles, and while he fixes 2600's he won't work on my 7800 since he's not familiar with them. Any advice on the matter is appreciated.
  7. Oh yeah, I should add that the Pico and the Hyperkin Bluetooth dongle are powered from the Atari joystick port. The controller is obviously using it's own battery.
  8. Not sure what I accomplished with this... An example of getting the Pico to control the Atari 7800... and trying to get my Bluetooth for free. Basically, I'm just trying to learn how to use the Pico to control the Atari while I wait for David to update the schematic for the joystick PCB. This will also work with a standard SNES controller. Not counting the controller, or the wires, this is about $6 in parts including the Pico. And, unlike the Pi Zero with an OS that I was previously working with, this boots instantly. The only thing that sucks is waiting for the Hyperkin Bluetooth to pair. Where I was using Python before, this is written in Pico SDK for C. Anyway, check out the video. snes-video.mp4
  9. Tonight we printed out the PCB pattern to scale, and tested how it fit in the case. Surprisingly accurate alignment considering that I can't focus on close up items any longer. However, we did realize that we forgot about the front post. So we will likely have to move some components to the underside of the PCB. Here is the paper version taped onto the original board with the holes aligned and the directional js buttons laying on top of design. The components at the top center will need to be moved, as well as the diodes next to the existing fire buttons.
  10. I have been working on all-in-one Rpi Pico joystick design. However, in the meantime, David and I have also designed a new PCB that provides enhanced joystick features without needing a Pico. We gave up on the previous iteration of a Rpi Zero because of cost... and I got overburdened at work... and because the Pico was released. Yadda yadda yadda. Anyway, here is a PCB design that does not require any kind of microcontroller or driver to use. I have built this on a breadboard and it works. I've used the breadboard version to play River Raid, 7800 Baby Pacman, and 7800 Xenophobe. And I've tested it with my previous 4-fire button code for the 2600. How it is to work: replace the PCB in the Hyperkin 2600 style joystick with our PCB presented here. Will require a new 9-wire joystick cable and a small amount of soldering. Our PCB will require two additional buttons be added to the case for multi-button support, and another button to be added to swap between joystick modes. This will also require a case mod of the Hyperkin joystick. However, using a 3D digitizer, I will design a jig for drilling the appropriate size holes to allow for snap-in buttons. At some point I will provide an STL file for the jig, which could be 3D printed. This board has 3 different modes: Serves as a Standard 2600 joystick with traditional 6-pin fire button, but also provides support for homebrew 9-pin and 5-pin fire buttons. From what I've read, some homebrews support 9/5-pin fire buttons. I apologize for not knowing much about the 9/5-pin fire buttons and their history or what games feature them. Serves as a Standard 7800 joystick, but also can serve as a homebrew 2600 joystick with four distinct fire buttons. At some point in the future I will release 2600 code that shows how this works, but is based on a 6/9/5-pin combination and moderate frame timing. Serves as an Enhanced 2600 joystick where 6-pin is joystick "right" and 4-pin activates a rumble motor in i/o mode with 4 distinct fire buttons based on 9/5-pins that utilize additional resistors and tight frame timing. I've released code for this in the past. However, this design has been modified slightly, so I will have to release new code to demo this mode. This weekend, I'll upload my drawings for this PCB design. One thing David and I have yet to test are potential clearance issues inside the case for the rumble motor, transistors and resistors. Will probably rub chalk on the case and see where it falls on a prototype PCB once the case is put together. I've been thinking we should probably also add some kind of LED to let the user know what mode it is in... which we haven't done yet. We also intend to develop a version of this PCB for an SNES style controller layout... but it'll probably be a while before I post on that topic.
  11. Spent tonight re-familiarizing myself with the re-design of the Mr. Boehm and going over the data sheets of the new chips with David. Parts are significantly cheaper than the previous version. Though re-writing all the controller code will be a bit daunting. Hopefully, sometime soon, I'll have a new demo ready.
  12. Berzerk for the VCS - first game my brother and I purchased together. Xenophobe - Arcade - played this for hours. My brother would spend $2, I would spend $5.
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