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Bratwurst

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    Fan fiction depicting the Mario Brothers in adult situations.

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  1. Bump, more stuff available, knocked the price on the TG16 RGB box down.
  2. Yes they are rivets. They're used in Game Gears too. I've had to undo a few of those to pull the cart slots from Game Gear systems (secret project) but you don't drill them out because they usually just spin in place. You have to get a fine edged flush cutter you don't care about and work on the side that's holding the connector plastic. You compress the cutting edge under the edge of the rivet lip until you're able to remove the overhang and the rest of can then be pulled or pushed out.
  3. Per Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/GallopingGhostArcade/posts/the-incident-at-mgc-we-had-been-asked-to-bring-primal-rage-ii-one-of-only-two-kn/842262062489522/
  4. Friend of mine's currently visiting Japan, he doesn't know the name of the place but it's not super unusual to see American NES or later system games for sale in used game shops there. Atari's much less common: Astrosmash Intellivision 3680 yen Tempest Jaguar 13800 yen Club Drive Jaguar 4180 yen Crystal Castles 2780 yen Vanguard 4780 yen Bottom shelf loose stuff: Star Raiders 1480 yen star Voyager 1500 yen Air Sea Battle 1480 yen 3D Tic Tac Toe 1480 yen Combat 1480 yen ??? Chopper Command ???? Yen
  5. I will ship worldwide. I recently acquired a Turbografx-16 CD, ergo I no longer need these: $350 shipped in the USA- Coregrafx CD-ROM² IFU-30 setup completely recapped, jailbar fix, laser sled cleaned + regreased, THS7314 RGB out w/ custom 3D printed panel, and a new drive gear I personally designed and produced through Shapeways with accura xtreme 200 material so it's quieter and smoother than the acrylic aftermarket gears available elsewhere. Comes with a fully shielded scart cable with PC-Engine branded housing plus gray nylon sheathing to match the console. Also includes the Coregrafx controller, power supply & its own composite video cable. Caveats: plays CD-R burned games pretty reliably FOR NOW, but this is a 30 year old system so I can't guarantee how long that will be the case, and you'd be better off playing official pressed discs on it anyway. You will need to source your own power supply, I don't have a spare. Easy enough specs: 9v 1.5amp 5mm x 2.5mm center negative. You will also need to source your own system card, I've been using a Turbo Everdrive. I'll help you figure out the modified card images if you need assistance with that. $75 shipped in the USA- I made this myself to get RGB + composite video and stereo audio out of my Turbografx-16 before I got the IFU-30 setup. The connector is designed to plug into the expansion port in the back AND you can then place the dust cover back into place. I can take pictures of this later for anyone serious about buying. The RGB circuit inside utilizes a THS7314 amp with proper resistor + cap values to achieve near 75-ohm attenuation output. There is also a stereo audio amp inside. It's all powered by its own 5 volt power supply because trying to run this AND a Turbo Everdrive is sometimes an issue for the TG16's own anemic power supply. The only caveat is you must remember to turn the RGB box on when you wish to use it and off when you don't, pressing the red square pushbutton switch on the side. It runs independent of the TG16 system. This was not a problem for me because I power all of my consoles and displays with outlet strips that have individually switchable outlets anyway, and you should too. Lastly, all lines in the euro scart cable are individually shielded, sheathed in a sexy orange nylon braid. TG16/PC Engine CD-ROM middle drive gears: I got a bunch. I modeled them directly after an original gear. 1: Accura Xtreme 200 2: Acrylic 3: Original NEC gear 4: Hong Kong aftermarket (same acrylic material as #2.) I'll send you each a gear of acrylic and accura for $10 + shipping.
  6. $25 shipped each for the remaining gold pads! They are the 7800 foil logo type. The strip version and silver ones are gone.
  7. I asked a relative to check, he lives in a podunk area where sometimes product stays on shelf longer. Not optimistic. If he has the empty Juul cartridges/pods he could refill them with an approximate flavoring. In fact I know someone in the food flavoring industry I will try to squeeze them for some. It could be a matter of dropping a drop or two of the flavoring oil/medium into unflavored nicotine.
  8. Aw, thanks. Nonetheless if anyone's unhappy with what they get I will honor a return & refund.
  9. Humble pad hacks for the Atari 7800 with custom faceplates of gold or silver with holofoil logos. They're all going to have minor imperfections because the faceplates are basically handmade. One gold has got a stripe instead but I gave up making more because it's too time consuming. Works on 2600 games too of course. Don't plan on making more, I just wanted a pair for myself and figured why not make a batch. All gone!
  10. I know some older residents in my neighborhood, I will ask around.
  11. Just concluded a substantial purchase with chicgamer, quite pleased with how it went. Everything was packaged with care and arrived as described.
  12. Yes, the Framemeister Mini, and like you said most people just get a minidin to euroscart adapter made for it. The Framemeister's discontinued now (supposedly) and the gscart series of scart switches (which were the only other notable product that supported JP21 that I knew of) stopped being made in JP21 format a long while ago.
  13. The increase of enthusiasts getting into RGB displays and scalers in the past decade having custom JP21 cables assembled for their setups probably doubled or tripled the number of JP21 cables that existed previously, and they're a marginal segment of the population to be sure. I don't envy anyone that later decides they want to sell off that stuff.
  14. A dual wipe is going to make more surface contact on a flat pin than a machine socket. Machine sockets work best with round pins.
  15. The mentality behind recommending machine pin sockets probably comes from their use in military grade applications and a perception that it's going to be the best. The only reason I can fathom that the military uses them is because they're more resistant to vibration for deployed vehicles, and it's definitely not with any concern of future rework. An associate of mine who works as a submariner technician confirmed to me that the only 'repair' those guys do is straight up module and board swaps, no component level diagnosis/repair. Read into that what you will... Not to mention the fact that most through-hole components feature flat pins which is like trying to shove a square peg into a round hole (machine socket), the connection is not going to be as reliable vs a dual wipe.
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