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About Bratwurst
- Birthday 01/01/1910
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In case the following information helps for your reference, I've had some of the clone 6-button controllers sent my way to repair in the past, generally the fault lay in the ribbon cable bridging the two PCBs having a few broken wires where it's soldered in, but I did find the following in my notes: My suggestion if you can't find obvious breaks in traces or no failed continuity in the controller cable is to replace both 74HC04D and 74HC14D with Toshiba branded ICs, the manufacturer probably went with generic knockoffs that would be less reliable. Edited in note: Manufacturer in this context would be the overseas factory that assembled those controllers for Starwander, not Starwander himself.
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I would love to know what the return percentage was on purchases for the 2600+ because of client-side 'issues' like this. Those that do make their way back to retailer probably end up as e-waste.
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Zelda collector nerds are insane. This is the 'gold' version I believe. https://www.pricecharting.com/game/nintendo-64/zelda-ocarina-of-time-collector's-edition
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Wow. Those are beautiful. Do you have a preference or have you noticed an improvement in play with either the large & small aluminum knobs versus the lighter plastic one?
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One sold on eBay (pink 3D printed shell $471.88) for even more than my boxed Atari Age release did (ended at $310.00,) but it could have been a fluke. I say throw it up for a $500 BIN and entertain best offers, see what comes your way.
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Certainly, but just once. It wasn't a ton of money, but it was enough to realign how I approach international deliveries. The simple matter is if you declare an item on the customs form for a lower value than it actually is, that lower value is what the courier is going to insure it for. Carry or discard that counsel at your discretion.
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Apparently the fat PS2 has a fan- could also be worth checking to see that it wasn't left unplugged inside the console.
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Thermal pads do dry out, it's dependent on frequency of the thermal cycles they're put through, storage conditions, or just manufacturing defects within a certain batch. If this freezing phenomenon started happening after the first laser replacement I'd ask if the tech pulled the heatsink plate at all and put it back with a ripped pad or could have neglected to check and see if any had fallen out of position. This is just a guess as I don't have the console in front of me to look at it (and I don't want to see it, I'm not soliciting a job here. ) That the system struggles to operate after a freeze and immediate reset or power cycle suggests that it was still in an overheated state and wanted to cool back down.
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The fat PS2 also has a built-in power supply which would contribute to heat buildup, especially as it ages, capacitors dry out with time and heat which can affect their performance to a point where they either fail completely or will operate for a short while then temporarily give up.
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The description of working initially for a few hours and then locking up just strikes me as a heat buildup issue. The reported lifespan for thermal pads is inconsistent but I've seen claims that it's as low as five years, if the pads in yours have hardened/dried out, that'd be something to look at replacing. When your console freezes, does a simple reset or power cycle revive it for another couple hours or does it need to be left off for a while before you can play it some more?
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Sounds like it's overheating. Have the capacitors been replaced? Have the thermal pads been replaced?
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Jaguar CD units - Were they ever made in any other colours?
Bratwurst replied to Beeblebrox's topic in Atari Jaguar
You might be able to soften the paint and rub it off without adversely affecting the plastic with rubbing alcohol. This could take time- and you might not like what you find under the silver coat anyway, because the previous owner might have sanded the plastic surface to start with before he painted the thing.