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Bratwurst

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About Bratwurst

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    Stargunner
  • Birthday 01/01/1910

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    Fan fiction depicting the Mario Brothers in adult situations.

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  1. Well, somebody's got to benefit from this further on down the road.
  2. If your Atari Jag CD makes a loud grinding/clicking noise on bootup before it begins spinning the disc, or at any time it's trying to access streaming audio/video data, this may fix the issue. The drive's limit switch is either not connected (poor wire connection), the contacts corroded and thus need to be cleaned/tinned, or in this particular case, physically not reaching the leaf switch. I have designed a plastic harness that can be clipped into place, glued or both which extends the laser sled's reach by 2mm: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4037935 Note that in order to freely move the laser back and forth you'll need to unclip and dislocate the motor with its wormgear: As seen below, the limit switch is not getting hit at all by the laser sled being pushed all the way to the spindle. With the clip in place, you want to verify that nothing is going to catch or drag on the gears or underside of the drive. Just enough augmentation to properly actuate the leaf switch: It's also a good idea while you're in here to inspect all the wire connections because the ones in this drive were very frail and poorly done. Touch up with new solder, secure with dots of hot glue even. Cleaning off the old white lithium grease and replacing it with silicone or similar quality lithium should also be done.
  3. That card slot cover looks really good, where did you get it? I assume it's vapor smoothed ABS.
  4. I finally completed the propad mod and sent it to Starwander this morning to try out, he will post his impressions soon I am sure. It's been unusually busy for me lately else I would have settled this sooner. I have ordered more supplies in anticipation of doing a modest run but it's going to be a few weeks as most parts are coming in from the slow boat overseas. Also just wanted to mention the propad is deceptively restrictive inside even though it's only slightly smaller/slimmer than the original three button, I had to work around the shoulder switches and the angle of the controller face is steeper.
  5. Why don't you model the object yourself and then make it public access?
  6. Confiscating the controllers, power plug or any other link in the chain would have been a much more effective solution than this thing. Perhaps its existence was justified by serving as more of a visible, psychological motivator.
  7. Bump, made some more NES to Famicom adapters because I had some scrap DB15 cords I couldn't use with anything else.
  8. The analog stick has a physical limitation to how far you can move in either axis, but I have experimented with a restriction ring that sits on the top as part of the retention piece. For the Neo Geo pads I've been modding there was no reasonable room for this and there may not be available room with this thumbstick either (there are clearance issues with the arc of the thumbstick cap) but overall it isn't an issue. At least not for me.
  9. Correct, you just bridge the left and right outputs of the multi-out connector and feed them both the NESRGB audio out line. You'll get audio out of both speakers... The NES CPU generates square and triangle waves separately through pins 1 and 2, and somewhere along the motherboard there's circuitry that blends them together into the mono sound of the stock RCA jack (or coaxial.) There are old hacks out there you can implement to circumvent the NESRGB audio circuitry entirely and even incorporate a potentiometer to mix the two separate channels together for a pseudo stereo effect but I don't recommend it because the novelty wears off quickly and most people I've done it for simply keep their stereo knobs dialed all the way to proper 'mono' mixing. It's not true stereo. Nonetheless if you're curious, the inimitable Chris Covell wrote up a detailed guide: https://www.chrismcovell.com/nesstereo.html
  10. Once I finalize the design I'll probably get a bunch of Propads together and offer them for sale pre-modded, and we can work out some kind of trade if anyone would have wanted to have shipped theirs to get modded, provided your pad was in good condition and not banged up badly. Or I could just mod it for you if you're particularly sentimental with it. Hoping to have something concrete by the end of the month. By the nature of trimming plastic inside and cutting the upper PCB, this mod is obviously not intended to be reversible.
  11. I've had some time in between projects to work on this some more. I do apologize for going quiet on this for a few months. While I have a design for the 3 button controller more or less 'ready', ( it would require some tweaking since I had made it with an elaborate 3 button harness on the back for RREDDWARFF, that most people would not want or use ) the feedback in here convinced me I should focus on a dedicated mount for the 6 button propad. I can always go back to the 3 button controller later. Once you start cutting into this bad boy there's no going back. I would like to make a run of pre-modded controllers available first to folk on Atari Age and then other people elsewhere, but I could do something for your specific situation too. Anyone unsatisfied with their d-pad I could see arranging some kind of partial credit in exchange, like a core charge. Just what you see for now, I'll be posting pictures and video with more regularity. I hope. lol sorry but no. That's just asking to chop up way too much plastic and hang some kind of hinky monkey off the side of the pad. Why would you want two simultaneous sets of inputs that function the same? This would not be like the Playstation or Xbox where the games have analog and digital controls. The Jaguar's library is entirely digital input excepting the Tempest rotary mod. If you want to use the original d-pad the 99% of unmodified ones left in the world are waiting to be held in your hands.
  12. The issue with the component cables working on flatscreens hinges on whether they'll process 240p. To test a television just hook up a composite (yellow) cable from a game system like the NES or similar into the green RCA jack of the component input set. If you get a functional black and white image then the television should handle 240p in component. I have an older Samsung from 2010 that handles just about everything thrown at it /other/ than a lack of s-video, it even takes analog RGB through the VGA port, so I'm reluctant to get rid of it.
  13. That's an old Famiclone, I believe there's pictures of a red one on |tsr's Nes Archive even, and the headlights light up when the thing is powered on.
  14. Bump, just trying to clear out some Super Famicom carts.
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