Bratwurst

They're probably standard tactile switches with the square pegs clipped off, they come molded in yellow as well as black. I think the color denotes a different rating of pressure-force. I got a bunch myself some time ago from Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832701258721.html

Getting some slight Kung Fu Heroes (NES) and Mendel Palace (NES) vibes from the presented material so far, which I really like.

Printing the model on its side so the rods are parallel to the build plate will probably give the FDM the best fighting chance imo.

ABS is even worse than PLA for tensile strength in printing parts with thin shapes. The durability of ABS only comes in printed parts that are large with thick walls or by injection molding. It's possible that acetone vape smoothing the piece would make it strong enough for the JagCD application though. SLS is still probably going to be the best way to go, look for a service online that offers HP Multi Fusion Jet. At the most you'll probably be paying $20 shipped for a couple of these pegs, if that's 'too much' I should point out that owning and operating a JagCD (or Jaguar anything) these days shouldn't be considered a 'cheap' pastime anyway.

Note that FDM printing ain't really gonna cut it with the previously posted STL, the pegs are probably too small in diameter to have any meaningful strength to them. I would suggest SLS (laser sintered nylon) or something similar. Even better if you can have the thing CNC routed out of solid aluminum.

Jaguar CD Peg.stl

What DC-DC voltage regulator do you recommend using these days for the 7800, @-^CrossBow^- ? Also this is the first I'm seeing of a mount board add-on for the UAV. I must investigate.

I don't have a 5200 to reference but I think you're going to see voltage drop through a resistor because that's what they are about. A bad or failed resistor would be obvious also, either blown out open/charred black or out of spec (high) resistance for the color code.

Look up the transistor markings for a datasheet. If I'm reading the 2-port schematics right that is a 3904 for the video circuit which should be 5v. Would not hurt to check C11, C116, C19 and any other nearby capacitors mylar or tantalum for possible shorts to ground.

Pull all 4 ICs, get readings for 5v point on each socket. If the voltage is coming back normal while empty populate each socket one at a time and then check 5v for each one, you might be able to isolate which chip is bad. If you're still getting low reads when the sockets are empty then you have a fault somewhere in the board.

It's still available as a publicly accessible project: ProNES Adapter http://www.tailchao.com/ProSystem/index.php Perhaps a more involved project than most hobbyists might be used to pulling together since it requires programming PICs. I should make my own sometime.

In case the following information helps for your reference, I've had some of the clone 6-button controllers sent my way to repair in the past, generally the fault lay in the ribbon cable bridging the two PCBs having a few broken wires where it's soldered in, but I did find the following in my notes: My suggestion if you can't find obvious breaks in traces or no failed continuity in the controller cable is to replace both 74HC04D and 74HC14D with Toshiba branded ICs, the manufacturer probably went with generic knockoffs that would be less reliable. Edited in note: Manufacturer in this context would be the overseas factory that assembled those controllers for Starwander, not Starwander himself.

I would love to know what the return percentage was on purchases for the 2600+ because of client-side 'issues' like this. Those that do make their way back to retailer probably end up as e-waste.

Zelda collector nerds are insane. This is the 'gold' version I believe. https://www.pricecharting.com/game/nintendo-64/zelda-ocarina-of-time-collector's-edition

Wow. Those are beautiful. Do you have a preference or have you noticed an improvement in play with either the large & small aluminum knobs versus the lighter plastic one?

One sold on eBay (pink 3D printed shell $471.88) for even more than my boxed Atari Age release did (ended at $310.00,) but it could have been a fluke. I say throw it up for a $500 BIN and entertain best offers, see what comes your way.

Certainly, but just once. It wasn't a ton of money, but it was enough to realign how I approach international deliveries. The simple matter is if you declare an item on the customs form for a lower value than it actually is, that lower value is what the courier is going to insure it for. Carry or discard that counsel at your discretion.

Apparently the fat PS2 has a fan- could also be worth checking to see that it wasn't left unplugged inside the console.

Thermal pads do dry out, it's dependent on frequency of the thermal cycles they're put through, storage conditions, or just manufacturing defects within a certain batch. If this freezing phenomenon started happening after the first laser replacement I'd ask if the tech pulled the heatsink plate at all and put it back with a ripped pad or could have neglected to check and see if any had fallen out of position. This is just a guess as I don't have the console in front of me to look at it (and I don't want to see it, I'm not soliciting a job here. ) That the system struggles to operate after a freeze and immediate reset or power cycle suggests that it was still in an overheated state and wanted to cool back down.

The fat PS2 also has a built-in power supply which would contribute to heat buildup, especially as it ages, capacitors dry out with time and heat which can affect their performance to a point where they either fail completely or will operate for a short while then temporarily give up.

The description of working initially for a few hours and then locking up just strikes me as a heat buildup issue. The reported lifespan for thermal pads is inconsistent but I've seen claims that it's as low as five years, if the pads in yours have hardened/dried out, that'd be something to look at replacing. When your console freezes, does a simple reset or power cycle revive it for another couple hours or does it need to be left off for a while before you can play it some more?

Sounds like it's overheating. Have the capacitors been replaced? Have the thermal pads been replaced?

Has there been any further elaboration posted anywhere yet about the revisions made on the CX78+? I am interested in getting a controller but I'd like to know more before I commit to a purchase, else I could just get the original CX78s.

You might be able to soften the paint and rub it off without adversely affecting the plastic with rubbing alcohol. This could take time- and you might not like what you find under the silver coat anyway, because the previous owner might have sanded the plastic surface to start with before he painted the thing.