[7800: what to check.]

They're probably standard tactile switches with the square pegs clipped off, they come molded in yellow as well as black. I think the color denotes a different rating of pressure-force.

 

I got a bunch myself some time ago from Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832701258721.html

["Sassy" (WIP) Project Thread (Previously The Pro Strikers)]

Getting some slight Kung Fu Heroes (NES) and Mendel Palace (NES) vibes from the presented material so far, which I really like.

[Atari Jaguar CD Disk Closed Mechanism Dowel missing/broken]

6 hours ago, omf said:

print direction

 

Printing the model on its side so the rods are parallel to the build plate will probably give the FDM the best fighting chance imo.

[Atari Jaguar CD Disk Closed Mechanism Dowel missing/broken]

6 hours ago, Stephen Moss said:

If you do want to buy the smaller the printed object the better the 3D printer has to be, and I would use ABS rather then PLA as it is a proper engineering material and would be the same as the original part, PLA is more brittle and distorts more during the printing so dimensional accuracy of the finished part is a generally more difficult (particularly on smaller parts) when using PLA.

ABS is even worse than PLA for tensile strength in printing parts with thin shapes. The durability of ABS only comes in printed parts that are large with thick walls or by injection molding. It's possible that acetone vape smoothing the piece would make it strong enough for the JagCD application though.

 

SLS is still probably going to be the best way to go, look for a service online that offers HP Multi Fusion Jet. At the most you'll probably be paying $20 shipped for a couple of these pegs, if that's 'too much' I should point out that owning and operating a JagCD (or Jaguar anything) these days shouldn't be considered a 'cheap' pastime anyway.

[Atari Jaguar CD Disk Closed Mechanism Dowel missing/broken]

Note that FDM printing ain't really gonna cut it with the previously posted STL, the pegs are probably too small in diameter to have any meaningful strength to them. I would suggest SLS (laser sintered nylon) or something similar.

 

Even better if you can have the thing CNC routed out of solid aluminum.

[Atari Jaguar CD Disk Closed Mechanism Dowel missing/broken]

Jaguar CD Peg.stl

[SOLD! - ITC:- Repaired 7800 for sale with a few upgrades - Complete setup]

What DC-DC voltage regulator do you recommend using these days for the 7800, @-^CrossBow^- ?

 

Also this is the first I'm seeing of a mount board add-on for the UAV. I must investigate.
 

[5200 repair started]

I don't have a 5200 to reference but I think you're going to see voltage drop through a resistor because that's what they are about. A bad or failed resistor would be obvious also, either blown out open/charred black or out of spec (high) resistance for the color code.

[5200 repair started]

Look up the transistor markings for a datasheet. If I'm reading the 2-port schematics right that is a 3904 for the video circuit which should be 5v.

 

Would not hurt to check C11, C116, C19 and any other nearby capacitors mylar or tantalum for possible shorts to ground.

[5200 repair started]

Pull all 4 ICs, get readings for 5v point on each socket. If the voltage is coming back normal while empty populate each socket one at a time and then check 5v for each one, you might be able to isolate which chip is bad. If you're still getting low reads when the sockets are empty then you have a fault somewhere in the board.

[7800 Joypad - Thoughts?]

On 12/16/2020 at 7:59 PM, Lynxpro said:

I'm surprised there isn't more of a demand for an NES-to-7800 Adapter considering how many people mod NES game pads. Then you wouldn't have to mod them and you could use an NES Advantage, NES DogBone, or NES Max. All of which are amongst Nintendo's best hardware, IMHO.

 

I know the guy behind Rikki & Vikki did have such an adapter displayed on their website in the past...

It's still available as a publicly accessible project: ProNES Adapter

 

http://www.tailchao.com/ProSystem/index.php

 

Perhaps a more involved project than most hobbyists might be used to pulling together since it requires programming PICs. I should make my own sometime.

 

 

[Pro controller]

On 3/25/2024 at 7:46 AM, Songbird said:

I've got a few more I need to dig out of storage and test. We're talking maybe 10-15 good controllers plus another 30-40 nonworking controllers which I have not diagnosed. But that's it; there is no more supply after that.

In case the following information helps for your reference, I've had some of the clone 6-button controllers sent my way to repair in the past, generally the fault lay in the ribbon cable bridging the two PCBs having a few broken wires where it's soldered in, but I did find the following in my notes:

 

Quote

Up direction and *, 0 and # on the keypad were stuck in an 'on' state. This pointed to a faulty 74HC14D chip on the controller PCB as those inputs are all shared on that chip.  Replacing the chip fixed the fault.

My suggestion if you can't find obvious breaks in traces or no failed continuity in the controller cable is to replace both 74HC04D and 74HC14D with Toshiba branded ICs, the manufacturer probably went with generic knockoffs that would be less reliable.

 

Edited in note: Manufacturer in this context would be the overseas factory that assembled those controllers for Starwander, not Starwander himself.

[1 game worked out of 20...]

21 minutes ago, piggies_pinion said:

The rest either failed to load - I haven't in fairness cleaned any of them yet.

I would love to know what the return percentage was on purchases for the 2600+ because of client-side 'issues' like this. Those that do make their way back to retailer probably end up as e-waste.

[N64 - Zelda - Ocarina Of Time - Gold- Sealed]

Zelda collector nerds are insane. This is the 'gold' version I believe.

 

https://www.pricecharting.com/game/nintendo-64/zelda-ocarina-of-time-collector's-edition

[Giant Rotary Knobs]

Wow. Those are beautiful. Do you have a preference or have you noticed an improvement in play with either the large & small aluminum knobs versus the lighter plastic one?

[CIB 7800 Baby Pac-Man for bid on eBay:]

7 hours ago, Shawn said:

 

I have a loose signed one I'll let go for half that. In a pink shell too.   After moving I realized I never play my 7800 at all anymore. 

One sold on eBay (pink 3D printed shell $471.88) for even more than my boxed Atari Age release did (ended at $310.00,) but it could have been a fluke. I say throw it up for a $500 BIN and entertain best offers, see what comes your way.

[INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING DISCUSSION: Added International Shipping to all my auctions now, but, boy, was it a journey! Any thoughts?]

Certainly, but just once. It wasn't a ton of money, but it was enough to realign how I approach international deliveries. The simple matter is if you declare an item on the customs form for a lower value than it actually is, that lower value is what the courier is going to insure it for. Carry or discard that counsel at your discretion.

[WTB: Fat PS2 Motherboard (GH-004 1-680-109-12) Good or Better Condition]

Apparently the fat PS2 has a fan- could also be worth checking to see that it wasn't left unplugged inside the console.

[WTB: Fat PS2 Motherboard (GH-004 1-680-109-12) Good or Better Condition]

Thermal pads do dry out, it's dependent on frequency of the thermal cycles they're put through, storage conditions, or just manufacturing defects within a certain batch. If this freezing phenomenon started happening after the first laser replacement I'd ask if the tech pulled the heatsink plate at all and put it back with a ripped pad or could have neglected to check and see if any had fallen out of position. This is just a guess as I don't have the console in front of me to look at it (and I don't want to see it, I'm not soliciting a job here. )

 

That the system struggles to operate after a freeze and immediate reset or power cycle suggests that it was still in an overheated state and wanted to cool back down.

[WTB: Fat PS2 Motherboard (GH-004 1-680-109-12) Good or Better Condition]

The fat PS2 also has a built-in power supply which would contribute to heat buildup, especially as it ages, capacitors dry out with time and heat which can affect their performance to a point where they either fail completely or will operate for a short while then temporarily give up.

[WTB: Fat PS2 Motherboard (GH-004 1-680-109-12) Good or Better Condition]

The description of working initially for a few hours and then locking up just strikes me as a heat buildup issue. The reported lifespan for thermal pads is inconsistent but I've seen claims that it's as low as five years, if the pads in yours have hardened/dried out, that'd be something to look at replacing.

 

When your console freezes, does a simple reset or power cycle revive it for another couple hours or does it need to be left off for a while before you can play it some more?

[WTB: Fat PS2 Motherboard (GH-004 1-680-109-12) Good or Better Condition]

Sounds like it's overheating. Have the capacitors been replaced? Have the thermal pads been replaced?

[New(ish) 7800 Games and Accessories announced by Atari and Plaion compatible with the 2600+]

On 1/29/2024 at 3:18 PM, Ben from Plaion said:

Aesthetically it looks exactly the same. Buttons feel the same but I've been engineering the DPAD to be better. I've been dropping info here and there in AA regarding what I've been doing. I just cant see anyone prefering the original CX78 to the CX78+. But that is my opinion. 

 

If I get time I'll do a video to show the internals of the CX78+ in the next few days.

Has there been any further elaboration posted anywhere yet about the revisions made on the CX78+? I am interested in getting a controller but I'd like to know more before I commit to a purchase, else I could just get the original CX78s.

[Checkered Flag just got Awesome]

7 hours ago, GrizzLee said:

Im not a SW developer, so I ask this with hesitancy....

 

Any chance something of the sort could be done to support the jag spinner controls?

 

Re-release the cart. Or provide a rom.

 

 

 

Quote

Also, no point in adding rotary support, the frame rate is so low the controls will feel disconnected (yeah.. I know...)

 

[Jaguar CD units - Were they ever made in any other colours?]

You might be able to soften the paint and rub it off without adversely affecting the plastic with rubbing alcohol. This could take time- and you might not like what you find under the silver coat anyway, because the previous owner might have sanded the plastic surface to start with before he painted the thing.