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Bratwurst

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Everything posted by Bratwurst

  1. Working / fully functional Watara Supervision handheld and 10 boxed games: Happy Pairs Hero-Kid John Adventure Penguin Hideout Magincross Police Bust Crystball Challenger Tank P52 Battle Super Kong $125 price is shipped within the contiguous USA. $SOLD$ I can ship elsewhere but I'll need to know where you're at, to figure out postage. There is a crack in the LCD screen cover of the handheld- but the LCD underneath is fine and undamaged. I also noticed that the handheld was missing a screw in the back which indicates someone else has been in here before it came into my possession, though it's nothing that affects the structural integrity of the handheld housing at all. Importantly, the battery compartment is very clean and shows no signs of suffering from corrosion. Given the condition of the screen cover, this feels like a candidate for a parts swap with a non-working handheld sourced elsewhere, and with that in mind, I'd rather unload this here than on eBay where I'd have concerns that an enterprising person could claim DOA after pulling a switcheroo of the innards.
  2. Paypal has definitely neglected to notify me when funds come in, and I can recall at least once when a money transfer didn't show up at all in my account for a few days after someone had sent it to me. Then when it did appear, it was post-dated.
  3. She has arrived and appears to work splendidly. Channel 1 BNC is a little loose from the inside and will have to be re-tightened when I have the chance to perform minor surgery. Previously have been using this thing, so it will be an upgrade in terms of visibility. The dual channel function is also nice.
  4. The limiter switch that tells your laser sled to stop moving at one end may not be getting triggered soon enough, I fixed a JagCD with this very issue with a simple 3D printed part: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4037935
  5. I made this to replace the mushy conductive membanes in mine, and have a spare set after tweaks and print revisions that I want to get rid of for cost of materials (cable, switches, 3D printed plastic) and postage. Joystick not included but pictured so you can compare to determine that you have one. It's a drop-in and ready to go kit. Very snappy, very responsive. $10 shipped in the contiguous United States.
  6. As a general advisement to those who might not know: Bevel your card edges for your PCB to reduce wear and tear on your cartridge port, especially considering this is something you'll be apt to pull and insert several times to load different software via the USB port. The ideal time to do this would be before you solder anything to the board but you can probably ground a steel handfile to mitigate ESD.
  7. Purchased a DIY A8PicoCart kit recently from @bfollowell Everything arrived quickly, zero complaints here.
  8. That NTSC encoder alone is probably worth $50 USD or even more. They can be hard to come by for s-video support these days.
  9. I'll take an unassembled kit if nobody else has spoken for the last one. PM me the payment details.
  10. I'm printing a revision now, the additional material shouldn't be an issue to print at all. You're welcome to it for the cost of postage.
  11. Thanks very much for your analysis. The additional thickness with those square areas is certainly possible with a future design revision. My observation has been there tends to be slop/looseness in other console/handheld examples of d-pads so I followed that general philosophy here. However practical experience supersedes 'trend' in my book so I will set about incorporating what you propose. Can you give a rough idea of how much additional thickness your tape pieces added? Is it one layer of tape, two layers, three layers of tape, etc.
  12. Looks like your only options may be to harvest from a donor VA3 NTSC or PAL VA4 system?
  13. Presentation looks and sounds lovely, will have to give this a spin sometime this weekend.
  14. You might be able to work out a deal with @Starwander buying direct and in bulk.
  15. Neat, I never noticed this, but I just checked and I have one of both sega shrooms in either revision. I'm keen to see if this resolves your compatibility issue.
  16. That AV mod guide on vintagegamingandmore is offensive. Please stop drilling holes in console shells. Desolder the RF modulator completely and pop in one of these if you have access to a 3D printer, or I can print you one myself: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4235463
  17. It's been a minute since I've peeked inside the 7800 but I believe they use 12mm x 12mm square tact switches. The height of the switch is important to match for the button cap's plunger to interface properly. Not too long, not too short. According to Console5 that height is 4.5mm: https://console5.com/store/tactile-switch-12mm-x-4-5mm-atari-7800-power-pause-select-reset.html Edit: Should be able to find these all over Aliexpress. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832770119329.html
  18. lol. Pretty much this. That strip of woodgrain pattern vinyl looked really fine on your 7800 also.
  19. Guide lines wouldn't bother me at all, but you could also just state a measurement of how far in someone should go to make the bend (1/8th inch, so many millimeters, etc.) The more details you've given about this project makes it sound very promising.
  20. Here is what I've come up with. Everything is easily removed to return the Lynx II handheld back to stock configuration, the designs were made with the consideration that no cuts or alterations were to be made to the system itself. A layer of black plastic must be unscrewed from the inside front shell to access the original d-pad. Part #1: This is a thin shim that plugs into the underside of the original d-pad, it's keyed so it will only go in one way. Basically this is a continuation of the concept that @xhul introduced in layering tape on the bottom; to mitigate the slope of the d-pad's edges and apply pressure more evenly to the conductive membrane. Part #2: This fella is basically a recreation of the original d-pad which is swapped out. Material has been removed from interfacing edges to give the d-pad more slop/less restriction while also providing even pressure to the conductive membrane similarly to how the thin shim functions. Part #3: Finally we have another complete d-pad replacement that incorporates the circlepad from a Sega Genesis style controller. This is a two-part install, you put in the 3D printed piece first, then after closing up the Lynx II, you press in the circlepad on the front. It sits taller than the standard original crosspad so it won't be for everyone, but it does provide enhanced leverage and is easier on the thumb. This also takes mechanical cues from the previous two pieces. More slop/less restriction, more even pressure to the conductive membrane. As this is a new, somewhat untested product, I am offering a bundle of all three pieces for $5 + postage to the first five people who express an interest for a limited time here in this thread, with the caveat that you promise to fill us in on what you think about them as soon as you get them. @xhul of course is entitled to a kit for just the cost of postage if he wants. Slot 1 - Slot 2 - Slot 3 - Slot 4 - Slot 5 -
  21. The exaggeration/emphasis in my first post was meant more for JrPac's consideration of a final product, definitely don't take it as me deriding you at all. I don't even know if this stuff being used is vinyl so I can't say with certainty. I do think the sanding marks would come through the surface unless they were finely polished down like with a wetsand process maybe- I really can't understate how much adhesive vinyl shows whatever is underneath it, at least the varieties I've worked with. I often had to yank off a decal and start over with a new one when assembling a custom console, but I am particular when it comes to detail. To the matter of cardstock, yes I'd recommend it as a foundation layer across the entire top of the shell.
  22. I sent a PM to @batari inquiring about getting a CEM #0 on June 17th and he's not even read it yet. I've even expressed a willingness to design 3D printable enclosures for every iteration of the upcoming CEMs and the response was kinda noncommittal.
  23. If this is vinyl decal material, a cardstock underlayer is going to work better. Vinyl/flexible decal material by itself shows EVERYTHING beneath it, even minor marks or sanded surfaces, so a uniform texture is going to be necessary. Should this vinyl+cardstock be assembled by the manufacturer before it's to be sold as a final product it will mitigate or even absolve any chance of air bubbles appearing under the decal when the intended end user goes to apply it. Speaking from personal experience in similar applications (see here: https://i.imgur.com/YFn5QbT.jpg) air bubbles are not fun to deal with at all. They will not squeegee out with soap water, and deflating with needles or pins leave obvious blemishes. That said, the design looks fantastic and I'm intrigued. I have a spare 7800 with a really gnarly faceplate but the console shell itself is fine cosmetically, so I could use one to save myself the time it takes to polish the metal.
  24. That looks gorgeous, you were probably at the tail end of opportunity to get that made. Neon signs have been on the decline as an art form and industry as LED technology has taken over. The knowledge base to fabricate also isn't getting any younger and isn't getting passed on.
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