CrazyImpmon

I took apart my light gun and to my dismay the switch in there has only 2 "tabs" (common and Normally Closed) which means I'd have to replace the switch if I want to make it shoot right with Atari game. Other than that it's just a few wires to change around. (or build an adapter box with male plug at one end and female plug at other end and wires arrainged inside to make Sega gun compliant with Atari system)

I was under the impression the game as seen in the movie was actually based on Agent-X arcade game. So the actual Cloak and Dagger game for the 8 bit computer would be interesting. I'd like to know if there's any difference in the game play (obviously the graphics would differ greatly.)

All these talks made me want to have a multiplayer game more than ever. But it'd only be a fantasy until someone builds a woring multiport prototype and a demo game that works with the proto. I have considerable electronics skill and I could help with the hardware prototyping. Plus with my Supercharger, I could run any basic 4 port joystick demo to see if it behaves. Plus with over a dozen working 2600 console, I can safely blow up... er... *ahem* sacrifice them in the name of science. Heck I think I could probably build a rudimentary proto right now once someone decides if it's going to be 4 ports adapter or 8 ports adapter.

I have a purple version of this controller, and I remember seeing an ad in late 80's magazine from Beeshu for many controllers including this line and Zipper controller for NES (same hot colors but shaped like NES pad) The colors were purple, pink, green, blue, and grey. I don't think there is an orange controller by this company but I'll have to look up that ad. If I ever find that ad, I'll try to remember and scan it in for you to look at. The auto fire feature is really useful in games like SW: ESB so you don't wear your thumb out blasting those AT-ATs. First time I tried it, I was able to wipe them out as fast as new one appeared and lasted so long on the first life. I think I could hit an all time high score if I took the time.

Well, it is really simple it's insane no one came up with it before. A simple multiplexing circuit can work. If you take 5 inputs (4 direction and fire button) you can have up to 32 combinations. A joystick has a total of 8 directions plus fire button plus one more for neutural input (when the stick's centered and fire's not pressed) for a minimum of 10. With multiplexing, it is possible to cram up to 3 joysrticks per port (6 per 2600) This can go even higher if you take what Booster Grip controller did and take 2 POT line and treat it as if it has digital rather than analog input, giving you 7 bits input per port for a total of 128 combinations or 12 Joysticks. Of couse with a measly 20% of CPU power available in a 2600, this is probably not practical for any games unless someone were to add second CPU on the cart to handle game code and leave the video to the main processors. But by then the price would really start to go up. Can anyone imagine a $100+ Atari game cart? but hey, it's an interesting challenge to prove Atari 2600 can do more than believed was possible. OTOH can anyone imagine a RPG-esque game similiar to Gauntlet or Dark Chambers with 24 players at once? If this was actually accomplished, it would mean Atari 2600 would be the oldest home console capable of MMRPG. Making the game capable of widescreen format for widescreen TV might help a lot.

If you like card games, wait for Euchure. It's almost ready to be released and it's really good to play if you like Eucure and don't have 3 other people around to play the game.

Sometimes the power jack gets worn out so you may have to wiggle the power plug on the back of the 2600. Leave the power switch in the ON position and turn the TV to channel 2 or 3 (whatever the 2600's set to) and the wiggle the plug. If you get intermit picture, the plug is to blame. If there's no picture, get a voltmeter and check the plug tip for 9v DC. low voltage or no voltage, get a new adapter. good 9v DC (give or take a couple v's), your 2600 is probably bad somewhere.

The seller has added to item description: I have gotten numerous requests for photos of the items. As I stated before, most of the items are boxed and ready to go. However, I did take some photos of the piles of boxes to give someone an idea of how much is there. If you would like to see these photos, please email me and request them. Also, forgot to mention there is also a TurboGrafx16 System Complete, it includes a dozen games, most of them are still in the box! Thank you! I still don't think anyone's willing to fork over $4000 in cash as required especially if the winning bidder lives on the other side of USA. What would the bidder do? Stuff 40 $100 bills in an envelope and pray post office doesn't lose it? Drive up to his house? Send the money vias armored truck? ($4000 would be after 10% deposit, which can be paid by paypal or money order)

Most Genesis controller can be used like Atari controller. There's a few Sega brand and many 3rd party that doesn't work right, and 6 button version most likely won't work. You could also use Sega Master System controller as well. As for hooking it up, you need to figure one of the 2 things: does the emu support game controller via parallel port? It's often the quickest and easiest way? If so, the built in help most likely will explain what needs to be done to build an adapter. if not, you can still build an adapter that hooks up the game controller via game port. But the game port input's analog so you will need to convert the digital signal from the controller to analog signal for the game port. This one covers connecting 2 Atari joysticks to one Gameport: http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=e...-8%26oe%3DUTF-8 (original site is in a different language with Google translator included)

I'll see what I can do. There's a long bookshelf that runs in the middle of my room (kind of like cubical type thing, 2 mini rooms in my bedroom) I'll probably end up making a link as when I'm done taking pictures and stitching them together, it'd be the mother of all panoramic picture. Including my favorite controller rack.

I heard about O'Shea through newsgroup. There were almost weekly posts linking to O'Shea, usually with an insane eBay auction selling the same sealed game for $10. I bought one of everything they had and it was probably 4 or 5 months later they stopped selling at 80 cents each so I was lucky too.

The TV switch is on the bottom of the console. Look for a long narrow silt and if you see it, shine a flashlight in it. if you can see the sqwitch, try that. Some really early model don't have a switch at all. The switch can go between 2 and 3 BTW. Also make sure you use manual switch box. Pre NES era console can't use the auro RF at all as auto RF depends on the extra voltage supplied over the RF cord to power it (kind of the same was as 4 port 5200 does)

Is someone doing a Bonehead of the year award? becaise I think I'm up for this year's award. Some of you might remember from my earlier posts about me modding the Supercharger and getting green flashing screen. Anyway I reversed the mod and I got the startup screen back (rewind tape, press play) but it would not load any game no matter what. I checked and made sure the SC was plugged into the sound out of my PC, and that my PC's volume is up. I gave up about 2 weeks ago thinking I blew something. Well, today, I finally found out what the problem was. I was going to listen to some audio books while I cleaned my room and noticed no sound from the speakers. The speakers were turned up full, and the PC was also turned up. Then I happened to check the sound control panel, lo and behond the sound was muted! Plugged the SC a while ago and it loaded a game! All that trouble over one forgotten setting.

Wow! But if you do this .. you lose the Ch2/3 RF out to old fashion TVs ... Right? Yes. But almost no one uses the RF hookup anymore. The improved video quality is well worth the sacrifice. I'm not sure which one but taking the signals directly off the TIA chip gets the best possible signal quality. The one version I used, there's just a few resistor and a pot from the TIA chip to the AV port. PS anyone know where to find a 100' long AV cables? The next time I open up my 2600 to perform a better video mod by cutting out RF, I'd like to put the cable permantly in there. The reason for 100' long cable is purely nogastalia as the original RF cable must have been 100' long.

Maybe I do have some good use for those pile of 2600's I got around my house. I figure there must be at least 20 of them, most of them socketed. It's too bad NASA probably won't think my lot's worth enough even for one lousy peek inside the real Space Shuttle Maybe I'll keep hoarding 2600's until I get enough to earn a trip to the space.

I just found something new by accident. You know the classic Easter egg in Adventure? Well, if you have Sonic & Knuckle cart with the Lock On technology, plug it in yopur Genesis, and plug Adventure on the S&K cart. You will find all new ways of exploring Adventure world, and if you find the new signature room, you'll find the entire S&K group in it. :lol:

That's all you got? smells like a noobs. I wish I could get a picture of my game room but no one makes a wide angle lens wide enough to handle my need.

Infogram to release 2600 based adapter that lets you play any PS2, GC, and XBox games on your 2600. A real space saver as you'd only need one console (with the guaranteed bad video quality due to poor RF design)

Why would you want to? For one thing, it's darned near impossible to open the M Network cart without breaking it. There seems to be 2 different versions of M Network cart: one that looks like Intellivision cart that snaps onto "2600 adapter" (as one really clueless eBayer put it) and another version appears to be fused into one single piece of plastic. Unless you've got duplicate Burgertime, just stick with the picture I got and save yourself the agrivation. Or just get a hacksaw and carefully cut around the base of the so called "2600 adapter"

the description is very confusing. I guess it's why no one else used that method. I wonder if there is such thing as a one blob version of Burgertime? And I thought multi-load Supercharger game was complicated.

Decided a picture is worth 1000 words so I'm including a very sharp closeup of the game's gut:

There is a very good walkthrough with pictures over at VCSp site so you could modify any Atari or Sears console without problem. As for which's the best, I wouldn't try the heavy 6 switcher. The metal plate around the cart slot could ruin a good label. The 2600 jr is small and could be good but there's not much room inside for adding RCA jacks. 4 switch console's probably the easiest to work with as it's also the most common of all. I'm going to see what needs to be done to a Gemini console. I have a schematic and I'm going to look around for any similiar points for sound and chroma (lumance is easy)

When I sorted and checked my collection of 2600, I noted that Burgertime cart is very heavy. Most other M Network carts I've taken apart usually had a pcb about the size of US half dollar coin and had one tiny black eproxy covering the ROM chip. When I took apart the Burgertime I was greeted with 4 chips. 2 identical chips opposite of the game connector is probably the game ROM but I'm not sure about the other 2 chips. One is a Toshiba TC5516AP-8 (24 pin IC, I think it's RAM chip) and another is rather large, almost like a CPU. 40 pin IC, marking reads: VTI 0098-0748 VC2032. The board has the silkscreen print: © M.I. 1983 4518-4229 REV. A BIG GAME What exactly am I looking at? And why with all the circuitry the 2600 game sucks badly graphic wise? All those flickering and flashing square cursor could induce seizures.

1701 is the registry number of the Startship Enterprise. NCC-1701 is the original one as seen in the original TV series and in the first 3 movies after a major retrofit. NCC-1701-A was seen in the movie 4 to 6 and was issued to Capt. Kirk as a replacement ship. Both ship were based on Constitution class. NCC-1701-B appeared only once in "Generations" and is based in Excislor class design. NCC-1701-C was also seen only once, in the TNG episode "Yesterday's Enterprise" and is based on Ambasador class. NCC-1701-D is based on Galaxy class and appeared in all 7 season of TNG plus ONE movie (Generations). Finally, there's Entrprise NCC-1701-E that appeared in "First Contact" and it's following movies. And the new upcoming movie "Nemesis" was supposedly to be the last featuring TNG crew. Wesley Crusher was to appear in the movie but the movie ended up too long and the entire scene was left on the cutting room floor. Don't know what the plans are beyond Nemesis as there isn't much. Voyager had completed her return to Earth, DS9 doesn't seem much for action since the Domion was defeated, Cadassians aren't a danger, etc. And the current running series Enterprise is still too new for a movie of its own. And yes I'm a big Trekkie fan. I knew all of the info above without even looking up to verify anything. Wow... a major thread hijacking took place... right from the second post.

While ROM maqy be virtually indestructable, there's one thing we're missing. Metal itself won't last forever. Typical copper usually corrode away and with the average thickness of the circuit traces, many carts would be good for around 40 years before the traces and contacts would have erroded through. Most carts do have plating on the connector to protect the copper but even they are not indestructable and will wear off from being plugged/unplugged.