ivop

Yes, but you also slowed it down to 50%. It has this late 70's, early 80's vibe IMHO.

So, what exactly do you not like about it?

I like the "dark wave" style. It totally changes the mood of the song, but in a good way. By far your best interpretation of this song, IMHO

Yes, that's TRUE pokey style Thanks. I didn't even do that yet. It's just three 8-bit channels. Nothing fancy. I wanted a 16-bit bass, but (never used it before) it turns out to be a dist C bass Perhaps I'll try RMT patch6 for a fatter bass. Or create a bunch of instruments that do 16-bit $Ax bass. It's just two patterns IIRC.

Not yet. I first wanted to get to know the song. Changed pattern 4-7 to a different instrument, according to the original sid. And I used a couple of tricks in the instruments to try to mitigate being too much out of tune

Here's a YouTube video of me getting acquainted with the song. TRUE pokey style And, here's an XEX to play on real hardware! ivop-noisy-pillars-t1.xex

You got your answer But even if 10% of your time is spent on the slow bus (reading joystick, programming ANTIC/GTIA, Pokey, VBXE), the remaining time Rapidus can do all calculations up to 8x faster. That's something I didn't know. Very cool! So as long as the 65C816 sticks to its own fast memory, our Sally 6502 can run in parallel doing what it normally does?

As far as I understand it, accelerators run at 4x or 8x times the original Atari clock speed. As long as they only access fast RAM, it runs at that speed. Once it accesses slow memory locations, e.g. ROM or hardware registers, it does a slow 1.79MHz cycle. Same when ANTIC asserts /HALT or /REF.

I strongly advise getting a multimeter. They can be had for only a few dollars. Not the best quality, but enough to measure resistance and continuity. That way, you can check if the pin's signal even reaches the PIA chip.

Which is Noisy_Pillars_tune_1.sid Edit: https://deepsid.chordian.net/?file=/MUSICIANS/T/Tel_Jeroen/Noisy_Pillars_tune_1.sid

Nice! Did he reverse it with siddump or something else? I think it misses the "fatness" of the original, if you know what I mean. If I were you, I'd move to 15kHz for the bass and chords and a 1.79MHz lead. Or you could post the .rmt and see what others can do with it

If I'm not mistaken, you can do something like: __asm__(" lda #$12 sta $02c4 )"; Or use \n and/or \t and perhaps \ for line continuation?

Your Raspberry Pi can translate the analog values to discrete values similar to what I did here (read up to the third post where the range was sufficiently increased to reliable detect up/down left/right): You don't need to know about a dead zone. Just the thresholds after which it is definitely up or down (left or right). Edit: like -32768...-1500 is down, -1499...1499 is nothing, 1500...32767 is up. Remember, every direction on the joystick port has its own bit. So you can actually do nothing if you are not sure yet

Apple.

Yes. It's the same protocol the SNES uses. You could wire the SNES2JOY as a NES2JOY if you want to:

What you call two display memories, is more generally called double buffering and page flipping. With this method, at the end of clearing and drawing your buffer, you are always waiting for a vertical blank, which wastes precious cycles. There's also triple buffering. Start with all buffers clear. Buffer 1 is displayed, buffer 3 is cleared, buffer 2 is drawn to, when done do not wait for vblank but start drawing to buffer 3, at vblank flip to buffer 2. Buffer 2 is displayed, buffer 1 is cleared, buffer 3 is drawn to, when done do not wait for vblank but start drawing to buffer 1, at vblank flip to buffer 3. Buffer 3 is diaplayed, buffer 2 is cleared, buffer 1 is drawn to, when done do not wait for vblank but start drawing to buffer 2, at vblank flip to buffer 1. Repeat. Edit: This way you are never unnecessarily waiting for a vertical blank.

No, not as far as I know. But the design is open for everybody to build and/or sell and not even send me a thank you https://github.com/ivop/snes2joy Everything is there. Gerbers, 3D files for the enclosure, schematic, firmware, source code, step by step build instructions, etc... I'm just not up to building tens of them. That's boring Even doing a DIY kit with parts and PCB only is a lot of work. Maybe I could do a PCB only run, but everybody can order ten pieces of this PCB for $10 in China and sell the other nine on AtariAge At first I used an original SNES controller. I have two of them, but one already broke, so to save the last original one, I no longer use it. Currently I use a Chinese clone. Takes some time to get the "stiffness" out of it, but it's not too bad.

After play way too much on emulation, with a gamepad, I'm also better at games with a gamepad than with the Atari joystick. Luckily I have SNES2JOY for playing on real hardware

You also might look into replacing the 7805 and 7812 regulators. There are modern equivalents that won't get hot.

TL;DR version: 1. Ultimate Cart and Uno Cart have a modern Micro Controller on board that does most of the work. Mostly programmed in C and/or ARM assembly. 2. SIDE2 and 3 have a direct connection to the storage media and do most things natively on the Atari. Mostly programmed in 6502 assembly. (ignoring the FPGA part ) FJC and Candle like 2 because it is more challenging and closer to the Atari DIY tinkering spirit.

Even if that was the case, I don't think having payed ~$400 US would make you feel like you've been robbed. But if this guy: https://www.pcmag.com/news/unopened-copy-of-super-mario-bros-3-fetches-for-156000-breaking-record happens to have a lot more with the early hand and unopened......

That made me think of this film: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Certified_Copy_(film)

Yes. They are all there and are not that out of place. It could be way worse I recommend heating them a little with a hairdryer. That way, they are less prone to snapping.

And this. Micro-SD adapters are easy to get by. You put them in your device once, and then (re)insert your micro-SD until the adapter is worn out and then you use a new one

Yeah, we need remote controls! IR is not going to work though, with the lid closed