ivop

I'll keep that in mind. Plan for next session: 1. Test Power Supply (under load) 2. Test RAM w/ SysCheck II 3. Flash full firmware.rom 4. Test test test 5. If fails, swap CF card, goto 4. I'll keep you posted. By swapping the 74LS08, do you mean by a faster version? (F, ACT?) Cap to ground on the reset line, what value did you use? 100n or larger? Regards, Ivo

Here's all the RastaConverter Palettes converted to png. For those interested, all palette files consiting of 256*3 RGB values (768 bytes total) can be converted to png by creating header.ppm with the following contents: P6 16 16 255 Then concatenate header.ppm with the .act file: # Linux cat header.ppm altirra.act | pnmtopng > altirra.png # Windows copy /b header.ppm + altirra.act altirra.ppm # Use your favorite tool to convert ppm to png rastapals.zip

Thanks for the elaborate answer! v.1.28 At this very moment, I leave it be, but I will return to this shortly. It is a bit of a pain to put the OS and MMU back in, flash AtariMax cartridge, swap PLCC's and reïnstall U1MB, but I'm willing to. Hmm, probably get another 800XL out of storage to do the flashing if I need to do this more often

Sorry if I did not supply enough information. I did still experience issues after downgrading the PBI Bios only, but you explicitly state that Candle's PBI ROM should only be used with Candle's BIOS. After downgrading the full 4MBit, it works like before, which means no problems at all. Just copied several megabytes over Hi-speed SIO to my SIDE2 partition and back again. Diff'd them and they all are fine. Answers to your further questions: 1) By booting of SIDE2, I mean U1MB's SDX 4.47 boots of D1:, which is an APT partition. It gets its autoexec.bat and config.sys from the CF card. 2) I did not hot-plug the cart. I boot from SIDE2, run uflash, either over SIO2PC or from the CF card itself (same behaviour). uflash did recognize U1MB straight away. Selecting SIDE2 made it crash. Selecting SIDE it did see the Flash ROM. Now that I'm back at SDX 4.45 (which came with U1MBv2.rom from 2012), uflash does not recognize my hardware automatically. I can select U1MB manually though, and then it sees all the banks. SIDE2 still doesn't work, but does not crash anymore! It shows an empty dialog with a single OK button. After that it says No Device. If it's not a software problem, what kind of hardware problem are you thinking of? This is an 800XL with Sophia and a U1MB+SIDE2. Nothing else. Thanks for your response!

Hi, Until now, I have used a U1MB/SIDE2 combination with all the stock firmware. Everything worked fine, but I thought it would be nice to try out Flashjazzcat's alternative BIOS. Flashing went all well, but then the trouble started First, about half the time it wouldn't boot of SIDE2. Secondly, I copied one file of about 9kB to the CF card and it totally screwed up my partition! It turned a directory named 'AS6' to a file '<heart><heart>AS6' and the file I copied was nowhere to be found! Thirdly, the latest UFlash I downloaded did not recognize my SIDE2 cartridge being inserted. It crashes with all sorts of garbage on the screen. Fourthly, reverting back to candle's PBI ROM, the boot problem mostly went away, but not 100%. Sometimes it still didn't boot of SIDE2. Fifthly, so I reverted to all of candle's ROMs, used latest UFlash to flash them back. Reboot ---> U1MB is bricked! Currently I am trying to unbrick it by flashing U1MBv2.rom to an 8Mbit AtariMax cart (twice, to fill 8Mbit) and swap the IC. Hope this'll work! Anybody else suffering similar problems? Edit: unbricking worked! So glad I got a MaxFlash cart recently. The PLCC to DIP adapter I have is not wide enough to fit a SIC! Cart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Nuon-DVD-N2000-Enhanced-DVD-Player-DVD-3D-Game-Rare-Machine-WORKS-/292156100148 Only $1 US There's another one listed for 120,=. Games seem to be around 15-30 bucks.

I'd still like to see a "simple" upgrade that monitors the MSB of the address bus and when 00000001, replaces it with the contents of an 8-bit latch which can be written to through a hardware register somewhere. That way, you can have the stack on every page you want edit: same could be done with page zero

If I'm not mistaken, a well behaved PBI device should be completely invisible if it is not selected through $D1FF. I don't know if the Blackbox or SmartIDE LCD work that way. I do know that the internal MyIDE is just a relocated cartridge and is always visible.

You can build it yourself, free of charge. On Debian Jessie I did (slightly different from the instructions, as -std=c++11 is not added automatically): git clone --recursive https://github.com/aseprite/aseprite.git cd aseprite mkdir build cd build cmake -DCMAKE_INSTALL_PREFIX=/opt -DCMAKE_CXX_FLAGS="-std=c++11" -G Ninja .. ninja -j8 aseprite cd bin ./aseprite If you want the last GPL version (license has changed 10 months ago), you can go with: https://github.com/aseprite-gpl/aseprite

HAY, I guess it's time to MOOve on. Carlsson's point has been HERD. Cow puns are irresistaBULL!

Looks like four spacers on the corners and a piece of perspex.

The design files are attached to the first post. It includes the schematic capture, pcb design files and gerber files for those who just want to get a batch made at a pcb manufacturer. I have none left for sale (already did a second run) but feel free to gauge interest in a 3rd run. Edit: I choose MultiJoy8 instead of MultiJoy4 or MultiJoy16 as a trade-off between board size, cost of materials and number of players.

Big oops here, I mixed up male and female, it's the other way around! As can be seen on the photo: the PCB is intended to have all MALE ports on TOP. So read the previous post by swapping male and female

The J8 connector looking crooked is lens distortion

The exact distance of the surrounding boxes to the edge is 65 mil (0.065 inch, 1.651 mm). The exact distance of the middle of the support holes to the edge is 200 mil (0.2 inch, 5.08 mm).

I guess they picked the name because it's similar to XBox.

To my knowledge, no case has been designed yet. The PCB is exactly 10x10cm, not considering the overhang of the DB9 connectors. I suggest making a lasercut box with T-slots. That way it can fit neatly around the connectors. Traditional DIY project boxes are probably difficult to work with if you have connectors at three or four sides.

J1 needs 1, 2, 3, 4, and 6 (all directions plus trigger). J2 needs 1, 2, 3, 4, 7, and 8 (all directions, 5V and GND). If you solder male plugs to the board, they have to be at the bottom (pin 1 has to line-up with the square padded hole). The board was designed with all female jacks in mind and straight through male-male cables to connect them to the Atari. You can also solder cables directly to J1 and J2, like I did myself. J2 needs to be fully connected.

Yes, I received one, too, and am still utterly grateful for that! Obviously I had to pay shipping to The Netherlands, but other than that it was free! Haven't decided yet whether I'm going to mod it or not though. Right now it's just part of my (small) collection Similarly I once got 16 7800 Ballblazer PCBs, including the Pokeys, for 8 bucks plus S&H! I only had to desolder them Have given away some of them later to fix broken machines.

Click add (to cart), change coating from HASL to ENIG+$15 (Immersion Gold)

Makary Brauner - Clubbed To Death (Rob Dougan) Fantastic!

With the introduction of CF cards, the old XT-era 8-bit mode came back in the (P)ATA standard. Most IDE harddrives didn't support it any longer as it became optional when 16-bit ISA was mainstream, but for CF cards it is mandatory. In this mode, the full 512-bytes can be read through an 8-bit register. I'm fairly sure the Atari FAT32 loaders use this mode, too.

You're not alone in this. I have it lying loose on the motherboard, but wrapped in foam

emkay, have you compared your version with the adjusted version of irgendwer? I'm not talking about the sound of each instrument (which you call squealing, which is what my GF calls ALL the chiptune music I play around here ) but I mean how he transposed certain parts (or voices, or channels) so they sound in harmony? Note there's a difference between harmony and harmonics. Harmony, or lack thereof, is why others like or dislike your conversions. Harmonics, or partials (disharmonic overtones), is why you like or dislike certain instruments. Why don't you take Irgendwer's transposed RMT and apply your instrumentation? Let's see how that works out The point that's discussed here now, is the essence of why not more people like your conversions. I think most of us (I do!) appreciate the work you do on instruments. There are a lot of interesting sounds you are able to produce! But unless they play in harmony to eachother, it doesn't matter much that your instruments are better than others (less disharmonic overtones and/or interaction with other instruments due to pokey's nature). [edit: clarifications]

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/258702-new-development-gtia-in-cpld/page-18?do=findComment&comment=3728309 Be sure to get this one and not the one I mentioned a post earlier, because that is the wrong one. Grrr, at first I ordered two of the wrong ones They come from the UK by the way.