Ataritard

That's a bad spot. If you could find the right shade of permanent markers, you could color over the scuff...

I appreciate the advice guys. I emailed X-Arcade people a few weeks ago stating I bought this second hand and they offered a full set of replacement rollers and bearings for $15 which is fair but I really don't need the whole set. I'll call them when I get a chance and see if if they offer any other options. If not I'll take Tombstone up on his offer for one of his spare rollers. Thanks again.

Does anyone know what brand of trackball X-Arcade uses? Happ? Imperial? Are they all the same? Ebay has them for $7.69. I could go that route.

...And they yell at you! You're cheating!

I need one of the long rollers... Inside the trackball there are three rollers. Two long ones and One short one. I figure it's worth a few bucks if anyone's got an otherwise defective trackball and could harvest one of the rollers out of it for me. I'd really appreciate it! There are bearings and encoder wheels but I don't need any of that. Thank you.

I'm not suggesting you try and play the game with a digital stick. Just calibrate the pots by putting the crosshairs in the middle of the screen. Dig Dug is a good choice. Once he stops moving you are good. Though keep in mind each game might have a slightly different sweet spot for each pot.

Use Missile Command.

I like all of them though I believe the CX-80 has a better build quality than the CX-22.

Out of the 4 ways to turn analog to digital, I really only understand the one I mentioned. Help me out. Can paddle support be added to the other three? Also, Can someone post a link to the 4052 Mitch linked to?

The angle of the 72 pin connector determined where the cart stuck out and its orientation. I didn't want to do a bunch of soldering. The RF shield I completely removed and thank you, I appreciate the kind words, though you lost me at famicom I've got pictures of a third one I did where the cart comes out the bottom so the NES is upsidedown if anyone wants to see.

This http://www.atarimuseum.com/videogames/consoles/5200/2600on5200.html is another way to do it.

I like the idea of replacing the fire buttons. They do suck. Good luck with the optocouplers.

If the buttons only work with a bit of pressure you can peel the tape and the silver cap up and clean the connections on the board itself. As for the left and right movement. Do you have any other games to test with? You said you didn't have any other controllers so it's tough to say.

I like where Rex Dart is going with this. Touching pins 3 and 4 with a small screw driver should start a game...

The Turnin' Turbo Dashboard is a nice touch.

Weak like the post is going to break off, or weak like they aren't as springy as they should be...? If its the later, you could take them apart and bend them back into place or stretch the spring. Not sure what to do if they were going to break off. Good luck.

If you have a spare coax cable laying around, this is easy to fix. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/191832-hook-up-console-without-an-adapter/page__hl__+without%20+adapter?do=findComment&comment=2430709

Have you played Combat with it? I read somewhere that it has a special feature that makes the tank go extra fast when you push 3 directions at the same time. Kind of unfair if you don't have two of them though.

Very nice.

Very nicely done!

Needs an analog joystick and a paddle.

I didn't know that. That's interesting. Shame they couldn't make the 5200 controller as reliable as the 2600 keypads

You might be better off asking the seller, but i will take a guess. Chances are that this will not work with your Sega Genesis pad like you want. It says that you will hook a video touch pad to one port and a set of paddles to the other port. This will work great for games like Kaboom and Super Breakout (and maybe Pole Position depending on how thy guy has it wired, shifting with the other paddle might be awkward though). The listing also says "a little basic wiring" which probably means taking your paddle apart and moving a wire from one contact to the other and maybe taking the video touch pad apart and removing the resistors. Let us know what you find out.

I have a hand full of loose pots from projects I've done and most of them max out at 504K meaning they are 500K pots. I do have a couple that go all the way to 1350K and 1375K which I found surprising.

What I mean to say is anything paddle controller vs. the analog joystick is the proper way to play these games. Though bohoki here just said he prefers the analog joystick so to each his own.