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Ataritard

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Posts posted by Ataritard


  1. I appreciate the advice guys. I emailed X-Arcade people a few weeks ago stating I bought this second hand and they offered a full set of replacement rollers and bearings for $15 which is fair but I really don't need the whole set. I'll call them when I get a chance and see if if they offer any other options. If not I'll take Tombstone up on his offer for one of his spare rollers. Thanks again.

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  2. I need one of the long rollers...

     

    Inside the trackball there are three rollers. Two long ones and One short one.

    I figure it's worth a few bucks if anyone's got an otherwise defective trackball and could harvest one of the rollers out of it for me.

    I'd really appreciate it!

    There are bearings and encoder wheels but I don't need any of that.

    Thank you.


  3.  

    That's correct, Missile Command does not work. From the games you have to work with, I would choose Dig Dug to get things calibrated.

    I'm not suggesting you try and play the game with a digital stick. Just calibrate the pots by putting the crosshairs in the middle of the screen.

     

    Dig Dug is a good choice. Once he stops moving you are good. Though keep in mind each game might have a slightly different sweet spot for each pot.


  4. I think I got it. Its mostly horizontal both pots. I have pics here so you can what it looks like.

     

    http://atariage.com/forums/topic/192363-masterplay-clone/

     

    Anyhow good idea atariguy1021, but I don't have bezerk to test. It is also kinda expensive on ebay. But these are the ones I do have.

     

    2 qbert. 1 messed one and one good.

     

    frogger

     

    missle command

     

    kangaroo

     

    2 super breakout

     

    2 galaxian

     

    jungle hunt

     

    centipede

     

    pacman

     

    pole position

     

    star raiders

     

    digdug

    Use Missile Command.


  5.  

    Instead of attaching the front pins to were they would normally go, use wire to attach it like in the attached picture (i only drew a few connections because it would look way to cluttered if i did any more), so the cartridge could be inserted with the label facing the correct way.

     

    p.s. Thank you so much for the pictures of that 72 pin connector you made face up. I was doing the same thing but got stuck bending the 72 in connector for the cartridge end to face up, but your photos showed me that i needed to cut the small pins to bend it and then have to wire them back together. But i am going to Rewire mine so i can have cartridges facing the correct way.

     

    p.s.s. What did you do about the top part of the RF shield? It wont fit with the 72 pin connector facing up, so im just keeping the shield out (i dont see why it is needed anyways).

     

    p.s.s.s. (sorry if i am going on to much) I plan to put a second cartridge slot for famicom games below the nes slot once i get an early nes game that had a famicom to nes adapter built in. I will solder the contacts on the adapter to the 72 pin connector contacts on the system board, and hot glue two small plastic support rods to the adapter to keep it from receding into the system when a game is plugged into it. I will also put in a small two direction switch that lets pin 32 (which provides 5 volts to the cartridge) switch between the nes connector and the famicom connector so both slots cant be used at the same time. Also if i ever get a famicom disk system, i might try to solder the part that plugs into the famicom connector, directly onto the famicon to nes adapter, and put another switch that lets pin 32 switch between the famicom connector and the famicom disk system (as long as the nes/famicom switch is set to famicom). But i think that soldering the famicom disk system directly into the system, is a bit excessive, with it already having a nes connector and famicom connector put in it, plus it would make it even more messy and more of a chance for a mistake.

     

    Sorry for going on for so long.

     

    The angle of the 72 pin connector determined where the cart stuck out and its orientation. I didn't want to do a bunch of soldering. The RF shield I completely removed and thank you, I appreciate the kind words, though you lost me at famicom :cool:

     

    I've got pictures of a third one I did where the cart comes out the bottom so the NES is upsidedown if anyone wants to see.


  6. If the buttons only work with a bit of pressure you can peel the tape and the silver cap up and clean the connections on the board itself.

     

    As for the left and right movement. Do you have any other games to test with? You said you didn't have any other controllers so it's tough to say.


  7. Weak like the post is going to break off, or weak like they aren't as springy as they should be...? If its the later, you could take them apart and bend them back into place or stretch the spring. Not sure what to do if they were going to break off. Good luck.


  8. I just acquired an Atari 2600 and and Odyssey 2 and the RF connector that plugs into the TV box on both have their ends completely ripped off. This looks to be an EASY fix, but I was unable to find any RF connectors at the local Radio Shack that looks anything like the connector these things had. HOWEVER, there were audio connectors that looked exactly like the connector. I just want to get the connectors and solder them to the ends of the cables. My question is, are these connectors the same as the audio/speaker plug connectors I'm seeing? I'm trying not to have to buy a new cable just to cut the end off as just the connector is much cheaper.

     

    I swear. I've seen so many classic game systems fromt he 80's with these connectors ripped off. It's probably some of the most common damage I see. What the hell do people do with these machines that they just rip the connector right off the end of the cable??? Is it a case where they grab the console and try to run out of the room with the thing still attatched to the TV????

     

    If you have a spare coax cable laying around, this is easy to fix.

     

    http://atariage.com/forums/topic/191832-hook-up-console-without-an-adapter/page__hl__+without%20+adapter?do=findComment&comment=2430709


  9. You might be better off asking the seller, but i will take a guess. Chances are that this will not work with your Sega Genesis pad like you want. It says that you will hook a video touch pad to one port and a set of paddles to the other port. This will work great for games like Kaboom and Super Breakout (and maybe Pole Position depending on how thy guy has it wired, shifting with the other paddle might be awkward though).

     

    The listing also says "a little basic wiring" which probably means taking your paddle apart and moving a wire from one contact to the other and maybe taking the video touch pad apart and removing the resistors.

     

    Let us know what you find out. :)


  10. I have a hand full of loose pots from projects I've done and most of them max out at 504K meaning they are 500K pots. I do have a couple that go all the way to 1350K and 1375K which I found surprising.


  11. Umm, the PC Ultra Racer controller with the adapter cable is a pretty nice setup for Megamania, Pole Position and Super Breakout, so I wouldn't necessarily say that your mod is the 'only way to properly play' those games.

     

    What I mean to say is anything paddle controller vs. the analog joystick is the proper way to play these games. Though bohoki here just said he prefers the analog joystick so to each his own. :)

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