eightbit

I am super surprised Goodwill took these at all. The Goodwills in my area (I have three locally) will not accept computers at all. For a while they did, but tossed them and just kept the keyboards and flat panels to sell. CRTs are a no go too. Now, they will not take anything but accessories.

I agree with this. I didn't mention it as I knew what the thread starter "meant", but adjusting the thread title to correct this should certainly be done.

Just looking at the shots it appears you either have no hard drive or a dead hard drive. So, it has no DOS The message you are seeing is being generated from the BIOS telling you it cannot find a boot disk and to insert a system disk essentially. Can you provide high resolution pictures of the inside? If the CMOS battery is an old leak-able/exploding type you are going to want to get that out right away. Even if it is a coin cell, get it out and replace it. For the first time in my decades of computer repair I came across a machine recently with an exploded CR2032....crazy....and it corroded some of the board (but thankfully functions fine as I apparently caught it just in time). This 486 has 16MB of memory which is nice. This is the machine I would have loved back in the day. When these were available all I had was a 386 16MHz with 4MB of memory

Nah. I have in the past but every single buyer was in England Really don't feel like making this an international thing. I am not hard up for the funds so if it does not sell I will just store it away. The problem is that I have too many things "stored away" and need to free up some space.

Bump...lowered again.

Took a break from working on computers today to simply decorating my "Old Alien Computer" (or so it was listed on offer up when I found it!). Figured some "old aliens" and some modern references would work out nicely...especially to cover some of the scratches

Bump! Price lowered.

Both pulled from my own personal machines. I have replaced them with modern solutions and as I have very few real floppy disks I really have no use for them. Both work perfectly fine of course. $40 each shipped (in the USA) takes them. PM! **SOLD!**

It has some scratches on the paint, but good shape indeed. Works perfectly with the Gotek which is great!

Pics added. As you see in the picture in the bag there is a switch. I never used it however so you'd have to figure out the pin orientation if you wanted to add the switch. I think I have documentation for that somewhere. Anyway, the switch is currently configured to be "switchless". Just pop it in the right CIA socket and pop the CIA chip into it. That's it. Now the internal drive (if there is one) is disabled and the external port is DF0: Simple instructions I PMed someone interested earlier: 1. Open the Amiga 500 2. Locate the right CIA chip (it is right by the floppy connector, it is socketed...just be careful not to bend pins!) 3. Remove the CIA, install the switcher (plugs into the socket the same way as the CIA chip) 4. Insert the removed CIA chip into the switcher chip (it plugs in on top...make sure to match the orientation) 5. Close the Amiga 6. Plug in the external Gotek 7. Pop in the pre-configured USB drive and play stuff Done!

I wonder if I have one on dropbox...I will check. Otherwise I will get one up here tonight!

I have a nice Gotek drive flashed with the FlashFloppy firmware that has been installed into a vintage Amiga (third party) metal external floppy drive enclosure. It sits externally and plugs into the floppy port on the back of an Amiga 500 or 2000 computer. Also included is a DF0/DF1 switcher that piggybacks off of the even CIA chip and allows swapping in between the internal drive and external Gotek. This allows the Gotek to be plugged in externally and work as the primary (DF0:) drive. The switcher can also be configured without the switch at all so that you do not have to mount a switch/modify the Amiga case. If installed this way, the internal drive is disabled and the external port will be DF0. This is the way I had it set up as I did not want to ruin the originality of the Amiga case. I will also throw in a small USB drive for the Gotek set up with some software examples so that you can test it right away. $80 $75 $70 shipped takes the set. ***SOLD!*** EDIT: Pics added. The "on/off" switch on the back of the case does nothing by the way. It only works with a real floppy drive When this is plugged into your Amiga and you power on the Amiga this Gotek comes on with it.

Owning a C128 is kind of pointless unless you are using it for business (80 column, CP/M) type stuff. I had a C128 when I was a kid and typing "GO64" every time I powered it on got old quick Go with a C64.

Thanks! Damn...$4500!

The motherboard is an FIC AD11. It had BIOS rev ADA41....and I actually found BIOS Rev ADA46 (the last BIOS available) and updated it

Recently I found an Alienware computer on offer up circa the year 2000. A really nice machine with an AMD Athlon 1200 CPU, 256MB of RAM, and some nice addons such as a SBLive! and Live Drive IR. I have been cleaning/repairing/modifying the computer some and have now outfitted it with a Voodoo 5 5500 and some other modern conveniences. It is a stellar machine with a really unique case with a "slow opening" slide panel in front. The only way one can even come to the conclusion that it is an "Alienware" model is the alien case badge and the model on a sticker on the back which is "AW-8844". But, I can find no reference to this model online...or any pre-dell Alienware models. Does anyone know where such information can be found? Even the wiki for Alienware only covers systems after Dell's acquisition of the company.

Sam's Journey is a work of art. I hear you on the whole REU thing and while it is upsetting, not so much for Ultimate II+ users. There are a lot of reasons to own this cart aside from Sam's Journey mind you. SD2IEC is nowhere near what the UII+ can offer. I consider the SD2IEC a beginner device to give you the feel of the C64 software and the Ultimate II+ a device that you buy once you have "graduated" so to speak and want to really open up the computer for more interesting things. Sounds like you need a UII+ in my personal opinion And, you mentioned if there are any NTSC demos. Why yes, yes there are. My old group (Entity) was a North American group and our demos are NTSC only....I can confirm they run like crap on a PAL machine

I found my switch issue. The first set of switches on this board provide the multiplier, and the second set the voltage. I thought it was the other way around! In any case, adjusted again and it boots fine, but the BIOS *still* reports the VCORE at 1.81, even though it is force set through the dipswitches to 1.750. Whatever.... Guess that's why you don't hear about FIC motherboards nowadays...lol! But, I do have to say, the board has been through hell (it was super dirty and musty smelling, and an exploded CR-2032 battery...something I never saw!) and it still works after 20 years. And, no caps are swollen. So I guess I have to give some props to FIC for durability!

It could be. I mean, with the default letting the motherboard detect it is working fine. But the VCORE hovers at 1.81 and 1.79. Hmmm.... The fan and heatsink for the CPU were cleaned thoroughly and the thermal compound (or what used to be compound) was cleaned/chopped off and new compound applied. The fan works perfectly and the BIOS is reporting the CPU sitting idle at around 42C....which from what I read is normal for the Thunderbird processors. They have a max rating of 95C. I guess it is OK as is...unless someone else with one of these has any additional advice. And, if my some miracle someone else has an FIC AD11 motherboard and has the driver disk I will be forever in your debt And funny, history repeats itself: https://forums.anandtech.com/threads/ad11-overvolting-athlon-by-default.590445/

Good point. I don;t have another PSU (yet) but I actually have one coming. The power supply needed for these Athlon chips is special in the fact that the CPU draws from the +5v rail instead of using the +12v rail as they do today. Because of that it is very hard to source a new PSU that will be sufficient enough for these CPU's. The +5v rail on this PSU is supplying 30A for example.

The voltage on the Thunderbirds above 700MHz is 1.75V....that information is everywhere including old reviews of those chips. However, when I set these settings manually to 1.75V and the x9 multiplier for the 133MHz bus, the northbridge fan does not spin and the computer does not boot. It will only boot when using the auto settings. Very strange. Either I am wrong about the CPU or the documentation is wrong...or some other unknown problem!

Yeah, I was definitely too tired Thank you carlsson!

I think it might be 133 bus x9 for 1197? Or is my memory failing me?

It has been a LONG time since I have done this. Long story short, I discovered an old Alienware with an AMD Athlon 1200 CPU (Thunderbird) and I noticed the VCORE in the BIOS is reporting at 1.81V. That can't be right as the spec for this CPU is 1.75V: http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K7/AMD-Athlon 1200 - A1200AMS3C.html The motherboard is an old FIC AD11 board, and amazingly I was able to find the manual and switch settings. Looking at the board, I see the switches are all off and the jumpers for autodetect for the CPU core voltage and frequency are both enabled. So, the board is taking control of this and applying what it thinks are the proper settings. But again, the core voltage is wrong...so the board is not detecting this correctly. I suspect it has always been this way....but I would like to correct it. Looking at the manual here is the voltage core settings: So, jumper in disable and SW3 to OFF looks like the plan here. But then there is a second set of switched for frequency ratio: It might sound stupid, but what do I choose here? Is frequency voltage times the ratio? Bus speed times the ratio? And if bus speed times ratio, is it 133mhz bus or 266mhz bus as the processor is using double data rate? I used to install these all of the time, but my memory is failing me recently Any help with the proper settings is greatly appreciated!

Just a normal grey colored Gotek unit pre-flashed with the FlashFloppy firmware useful for Amiga, Atari ST, Amstrad and so on. I was planning to use it for a project but ended up not needing it. It is flashed with FF Firmware v3.11a, but of course can be easily updated with a USB flash drive to the latest version (which is now 3.12 IIRC) at any time. Take it for $40 shipped. I also have an OLED display that I can add with it for $5 extra. You would have to modify the Gotek plastic shell to add it however. PM. ***SOLD***