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eightbit

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Posts posted by eightbit


  1. 1 hour ago, bluejay said:

    You can use a DC power supply with a 2 prong VIC-20. I use a 9VDC 2A power supply. It used to be my 5200 power supply but since I don't really use my 5200 and my VIC-20 one is dead so I use that instead. Since I don't want to cut the connector off since it's still my 5200 power supply so I stick the barrel connector into one of the pins and use a bent paper clip to short between the negative and the other pin of the VIC. I really need to come up with a better solution though. If I tap that paper clip slightly after typing in a moderately long BASIC program it's gone.

    That power rig job is just a bad bad idea. I would not recommend that at all. The two prong VIC-20 power supply is not really rare:

     

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-AC-POWER-SUPPLY-COMMODORE-VIC-20-COMPUTER-TESTED-WORKING-TWO-PRONG/133561654539?hash=item1f18e51d0b:g:NK0AAOSw~hNfnGZZ

     

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Original-AC-POWER-SUPPLY-for-the-Commodore-VIC-20-Computer-WORKS/293858304660?epid=1400366122&hash=item446b51e294:g:t0UAAOSw-ktfwAh~

     


  2. Master System II consoles (NTSC versions) are not only extremely rare and pricey if you can find them, but they are inferior in many ways to an original Sega Master System. They are only RF (no composite) and cannot accept Sega Cards or the 3D Glasses. The original master system can output composite as well as RGB and accepts everything. And it can play SG-1000 games via a flash cart as well.

     

    You are probably looking at $80-$100 for a decent Master System set with a controller and a power supply. Maybe more. Prices on these have gone up over the years. I just scored a boxed Master System with two controllers and light phaser for $80, and that was sold as "untested" with no PSU and no av cables. Thankfully the system works fine, but both controllers are not functional and I need to repair them. And even at that price I consider myself very lucky to have scored that set for so low.


  3. I personally would only go to Ray Carlsen for any power supply replacement. Not that other recommendations are bad mind you but I have had no experience with those. But, I have had years of experience with Ray helping me with repairs and providing excellent power supplies. He can make you one PSU that will handle a C64 and a Vic at the same time....and even powered at the same time if that is what you want. I can only recommend Ray as I know his quality and his excellent support of his products.

     

    If you do not want to buy a power supply at minimum you need to pick up cable savers for those bricks you have.

     

    You can find all of your options on his page here:

     

    https://www.carlsenelectronics.net/

     

    And as others may have indicated, DO NOT use those old C64 bricks on their own. You have been warned!


  4. Just a little Thanksgiving clean up:

     

     

     

    1. Seven complete DS games including Metroid Prime Pinball. This includes the rare rumble pak for the DS. This title alone (with rumble pak) typically sells on ebay for $50-$60. Take everything for $75 shipped.

     

    2. Rockman (Megaman) X2 for the Super Famicom - $30 shipped

     

    3. Commodore VIC-20 Avenger and Omega Race - $20 shipped

     

    4. Donkey Kong/DK Jr. Custom Atari 5200 Cartridge (flip the switch to select the game before power on) - $30 shipped

     

    5. Rare Userport Reset cartridge for C64 and VIC-20 computers (maybe others?). Plug it into the userport and you now have a reset button. I have one of these connected to my VIC-20, works great. Rare import item. - $28 shipped

     

    6. Checkered Flag (complete) and Cybermorph cartridge with overlay for the Atari Jaguar - $30 shipped

     

    7. TMNT 2 and Excitebike cartridges for the Famicom - $40 shipped

     

    8. Vectrex Cosmic Chasm, Clean Sweep, and Hyperchase carts - $20 shipped

     

     

    PM if interested!

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    • Like 1

  5. Any reason why you are looking for a VIC with a round DIN power connector? The two prong connector model power supply is not susceptible to the damage that is caused by the faulty power supply on the round DIN power models....so you do not need any "power saver" type of device to protect it. I have confirmed this with Ray Carlsen. In that respect it appears the two prong connector model is somewhat superior. Other than the power type, it works the same. Mine is a two prong model (non-CR model) and it works like a dream.


  6. PVM's are impossible to get on the east coast (I live in NJ). I had a lead on one in NYC only ONE time years ago, but the seller couldn't wait the 20 minutes for me to arrive before selling it to someone else.

     

    But then I thought about it. How much fun am I really going to have on a small 13/17/17 inch display? Screw that. I have a nice 27 inch Wega and things are beautiful now ;)

    • Like 1

  7. I've been having a difficult time recently trying to obtain a working N64 ram expansion pak. I know from past experience that it is not really "rare" to find one in working condition, but I have been having some bad luck (with ebay of course!). Two paks already and both have a problem in which the games freeze after a period of time. And it's not my N64...I have tested them on more than one console. So, obviously I got lucky and purchased two defective units from two sellers. Both were returned.

     

    So, now I need one once again. But I am reluctant to try ebay again. Does anyone have one that they are willing to sell or trade that they know functions OK?

     

    **FOUND!**


  8. On 11/19/2020 at 10:12 AM, Thunderbird98 said:

    I decided to pay a little more for a game doctor because I read somewhere that everdrives don't work properly. I heard that they have a design flaw- something about the system requiring a 5v circuit and the everdrive only being built for 3.3 volts. I don't know if that's true, but I didn't want to risk it.

     

     

    There was something going on with that years ago and it blew up into a thing.....that really turned out to not be a thing.  IIRC it was one particular model at the time that while had no cases at all reported whatsoever of any console damage it ran like wildfire through the interwebs. That was years ago. Since, all everdrives are functioning properly and none cause any risk at all. I have used them for years....and still continue to use them to this day.

     

    I would say if anything it is these backup devices from random Chinese manufacturers back in the day could be the cause of console damage over anything else. They have no "stamp of approval"...and documentation of how they operate is sparse or perhaps even non-existent. I would certainly trust Krikzz and his devices over one of these Chinese get-rich-quick relics ;)

     

    I recall having a Super Wild Card back in the day for my SNES and someone had to make me an adapter to allow my SNES to use a Genesis power supply in order to use it. That was because when it was used with a SNES power supply the screen would fade (power draw) with each click of the loading off of the floppy drive. That was bad news.

     

    Bottom line are that current everdrives are not only safer (in my opinion over these old things) but much more convenient, reliable, and much more you can do with them. The only reason to own one of these old copiers is if you had one back in those days and are feeling nostalgic for it....or for collecting purposes if you are into collecting vintage pirate devices. $150 as a collectible was ok I guess. But if you spent $150 to actually use this over a modern everdrive for gaming...I hate to say it but it was not the way to go.

     

    But I guess Jackie Chan approved it...so there's that!

     

     

     

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    • Like 2

  9. 2 hours ago, Bratwurst said:

    If you can't source an original one I could probably model and 3D print a duplicate for you.

     

    I appreciate the offer but I would prefer the original piece. I mean, its not even necessary as on mine the person at least didn't pop out the plastic underneath so it is still "covered", and you can't even see it as its on the bottom of the console. But it bugs me that it is not there :) Just like it did when I received an N64 without the bottom expansion cover....and my TG16 without the back cover. I had to buy both of those separately ;) What do people do with these covers? Is there some storage wars facility out there that are just filled with barrels of console slot covers? I wouldn't doubt it...

     

    EDIT: Holy smokes...found!


  10. A long shot, but maybe someone here has a broken garbage SMS and might have this part. Its the little plastic slide panel (as shown in the picture). If you slide it off you would find a plastic cover that can be broken out to add an FM module...or at least that was its original intent. Someone took off the slide cover on the SMS I acquired for some reason. Does anyone have one of these to spare?

     

     

     

    1124409835_smsrtype003.thumb.JPG.9b1b8719dc564ffd647a84a74faad086.JPG


  11. I ran into an issue with my Colecovision tonight and suspect (or hope) that it is a PSU issue. The +12V on my supply is reading lower than it should so I think there might be a problem there. Therefore I have just ordered one of these on ebay. I'll report back on how I fair with it when it arrives. It looks like a good product, and it is certainly great to see a modern solution for a power supply for this system available.

    • Like 1

  12. I was not planning on selling these at all but a recent circumstance in which I have to have something repaired has come to light...so I need some funds.

     

    These games took a LONG time to arrive from Belgium to the USA during COVID (I think two months!) and each game ran me a bit for $100 each with shipping. But they are so well worth it. Hands down the best games I have ever played on a Vectrex.

     

    You can read about both games on the author's website here:

     

    http://www.kristofsvectrexgames.be/

     

    Mine are complete (box, manual, overlay. cart) and in like new condition of course. $80 for each game and that includes the shipping. That's $20+ less on each that I spent, and you will not have to wait two months to get them ;)

     

    PM if interested.

     

    ***BOTH SOLD***

    • Sad 1

  13. Yep, I have a USA Master System and am fully aware of the Master Everdrive option and the ability to play all of the games (including SG-1000) on it. But, I want the Japanese console as it is unique (to me at least in the USA) and would be a great addition to my console collection. I may import it eventually if I cannot find one stateside...


  14. 6 hours ago, carlsson said:

    Perhaps our fear for delays due to Covid-19 turns into everyone will receive their gifts super early, and then it becomes a waiting game, who can refrain the longest from opening it.

     

    Nobody better open your presents before Christmas or I will smack you on the hand with my wife's wooden spoon!

    • Like 2
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  15. As a Sega Master System fan (and original owner upon release!) I have always wondered and wanted a Mark III model. But, I don't want to import. I am wondering if anyone stateside has one of these and would like to perhaps trade it for something? Or of course sell it. I am not sure of the price value here and am just dipping my foot in the pond....to A: see if someone has one for offer and to B: see what I am looking at in terms of cost/trade. PM if you have one that you want to offload ;)


  16. Recently I purchased a non working Genesis model 1 on ebay that I noticed had the FCC ID that would equate to being a non-TMSS model. I thought this one looked odd as the grey print around the Genesis logo is a lot "greyer" than I remember. The system came in and the issue was simply a broken solder joint on the power connector board. Reflowed and it works perfectly again which is great. And, it is most definitely a non-TMSS model which is double great.

     

    But, looking around I can only find reference to these early models made in Japan and serials starting with "3". This serial number starts with "1" and as the label states it was made in China. I cannot find any other info about this online. Does anyone have any insight? And before anyone asks (if they do), it is not a bootleg system. This is absolutely a Sega machine...and it is heavy (in weight) as I remember my first model being ;)

     

     

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