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_The Doctor__

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Everything posted by _The Doctor__

  1. AHCT, is very fast, HCT is not as consistent or fast. You might get one that works and one that doesn't when using the normal HCT.
  2. No, the cartridge door was a safety interlock and an ease of use feature to completely start the machine from a fresh state on cartridge insertion and removal. Machine won't power up with the case off due to safety interlock. No RF emitted when door is open as power is off. You can still hot plug like on an XL/XE just a little tougher to rock a cart in, some dummy carts had a switch to turn on and off cart power, and protection bypass carts etc. were all used without issue, while most folks using them had just bypassed/jumped the interlock to use them.
  3. Didn't someone make their own configurator/writer with a modified Menu using some other Character or another?
  4. Atari also had cartridges that let you load DOS like Atari Writer and Music cartridge etc.
  5. I would rather reset stays in the game and as a menu choice you may exit the game to Drive Boot or return to DOS. Always possible to cold boot, but sometimes not to DOS depending on memory and DOS.
  6. we are never that quick to respond with bugs, maybe speak in the next 3 weeks or forever hold our piece?
  7. Win anything always requires an 'update', need or not. More bloat in the coding moat.
  8. so the resistor fix with a less power hungry led perhaps current limited would be acceptable/ and if going full bore in addition-buffering chip, otherwise new mylar. I'd still do the updates to limit the rate of mylar trace decay. @Simius thank you for rounding the whole of it up so succinctly.
  9. they should fix the upgrades that break gtia beeper!
  10. be aware some s-ram mods don't play well with some upgrades now and possible new ones in the future.
  11. LMFAO, I listed POKEY instead of GTIA, how I'll never know. Sorry for the senile moment. TJZB has the correct info.
  12. so long as everything is able to be set, and saved, and all works as expected. I would say why not. However, have you tried making setting on the FJC firmware unit and saving it? oh it's already been covered. If the one u1m is now functioning fine, I'd say upgrade it and send the other one on it's way, maybe someone can repair it.
  13. take the stacked resistors to 3K and if that fails, go to the pokey and matrix chips etc, after you verify connector and connection resistance.
  14. no that's pure speculation, the person taking over did not continue the site as it was nor did he continue paying for it. No, not everything has been resolved, but rather it seems leaving time progress and languish so things will be forgotten or expire with limitations and such. I've seen legal system worked this way for various reasons. In any event, you can find the site and most of the stuff here there and everywhere. I wouldn't know all of the wrangling that went on, but not everyone got everything Curt wanted them to have. It's unfortunate how long this had dragged on. It's all under the other name now as far as I can tell. The missing portions are slowly filling in. You wouldn't want Atari taking ownership of everything. That's how everything has gotten lost or in dumpsters a number of times. It's a business, and these things change and priorities change. Best it be handled by the community, archivists, historians, fans, restoration folks, and museums.
  15. that explains another issue, select console key activates MIO menus and screens that are normally non destructive on exit but was having some issues now... can we re assign cold start key to another key like C for cold start or some other easy to remember moniker?
  16. Put something non conductive between the u1m's and the computer/rf modulator !!! Try setting u1m fjc to boot to loader... also verify you are flashed to the latest FJC firmware and that it's got the correct plugins etc. try setting it as boot to loader and save make sure battery is strong and correct. You can toast things quick if it touches and shorts on something. insulate between a sheet of paper something!!!
  17. That is a stylized Ultimate Setup screen and yes you do want that... that's how you change the settings and what not at boot time Sounds like you do have some janky connection still, if moving it around etc allows you to get to the setup screen or not/side or not. could be the ribbons headers or socket/header legs. This is a known to have happened thing with bad ribbon header crimps etc. Clean up the flux again and make sure there isn't a whiskey bridging two or three legs.
  18. 192k just like my 800XL and 130XE are when not in 320K mode. so 3 ram card working at once, but a 600XL would still want 64K on it's pcb, as the 1064 plus the two other cards will fall short of the 800xl and cards. It's still great you can upgrade without tearing the 600XL apart but I still like maxing it out. Serial Parallel card with updates as already suggested, BBS folks would still want two serial one parallel ethernet and wifi to get started, with a 1-4 meg ram disk and rtc.
  19. z80 80 col video memory card serial parallel card what else does a growing boy need? Time clock and house controller card, parallel drive card, hard drive card, prototyping card, amy card, sound card, among other things
  20. I see solder balls floating above pads and possible pad damage, this needs flux cleaned off and better close up pictures. Not sure I've ever seen quite this kind of soldering. Heat needs to be applied for enough time after melting to be pulled into the pores of the metal legs, thru holes and pads but not long enough to lift/ damage them. Do not press hard against pcb pads or they will be damaged.
  21. maybe that why it doesn't work FDC ROM mismatch and FDC death.
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