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_The Doctor__

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Everything posted by _The Doctor__

  1. Having played games on PS/2 machines and usb machines.... there must be a way to configure the keyboards controller... while it's true some of the keyboards were complete crap BITD -that would have been a major issue for dang near all of the games that used the keyboard at that time as well as now... having played Unreal Tournament would have been impossible if they couldn't... and many a player used PS/2 gear at first... not all of the keyboards worked the same... so it may be time to try out a few different ones if you can. The key should be held down and report its down for the entire time it's held... if a device is pulsing the keys according to the clock... so when you press down a key the make code is sent and the in between device should phycally connect the Atari Keyboard matrix points and hold it down continuously until a break code is sent... if the AT/PS2 keyboard is crappy and you press the next key it might not break between keys if more than it can handle is pressed at once.... so long as the code is read and changes with keys being held down responding with the transition to the next key with the previously held key being released a middle box can handle switching the matrix-but it would needs to handle the make code without a break code. the break code simply clears the matrix so to speak. You can have issues if the keyboard insists on break code periods for a certain period of time before asserting the next make code in it's buffer. here's a link to the protocols, thought there were a crap ton of keyboards with slightly different takes on it... some being named this or that implying speed, performance response, keys at the same time.... etc etc. differences in the serial device drivers and the keyboards themselves were able to keep thing at the ready reduceing rts/cts lag... consider the Atari always ready to receive the matrix, and the keyboard as being delayed at time to receive from a middle box, a driver, etc. for those interested I'll include a link with the general idea start at page 8 or 9 https://www.avrfreaks.net/sites/default/files/PS2 Keyboard.pdf https://wiki.osdev.org/PS/2_Keyboard You can find as in all protocols and implementations that different manufacturers used different chipset/drivers and matrix modifications to make them more responsive quite interesting in the control of led's and keys.... now what get's most people is that the press(make) and Release(break) codes allow for more than one key to be down at the same time depending on the driver and the keyboards controller. So a middle box or driver that expects key make key break will have issues if it gets key make key make then key break key break.... it's a little more complex than one might expect.... now don't upload virus to the keyboard buffer etc or reassign the y and n key as being swapped...
  2. What you say is very nice and pleasant I like it... but it is inaccurate... The Atari character set has been remapped with PET character set and a few custom characters in the character key map... so it is indeed PETSCII on the Atari... as was stated, the characters are redefined to PET characters for all of the ports... If you use your own custom character fonts and custom character mapping for a similar game... we could call in ATTACKSCII Robots for sure...
  3. what did your install look like, maybe it's good to double check that.
  4. so the steve and buddy device is aki based according to mytek, since they were able to patch it etc. I'd talk with him and his buddy, it would appear they understand the device a little bit... so unless lotherik just used the name and his crew didn't base it on the original- which would be super strange-... he'd have to point you to the maker if that's the case, as it's said he's just a manufacturer/retailer...
  5. there a few of them and they may be interrelated so it won't hurt to talk to a couple people with what you find a I noted two people but I'm sure there is another fellow that made boards with one of them.
  6. Yes I'd say update the adapters firmware and then let @mytek know the results and contact @Stephen J. Carden as well so many adapter aki krh tk.... etc... I'd see what they'd say
  7. @Glenn B. I normally could tell you right off the top of my head the 3 I use but can't remember and aren't anywhere near them to check right at this moment. Using the picture and checking against the FAQ listing of supplies and simply asking the vendor should be adequate to getting the proper supply.. CO61982 is a correct number but it's also the same number that is on the good peanut C061982 'The White Brick' (Upper left) 1.5A very reliable C061982 'The Black Brick' (Lower Left) 1.5A very reliable ******C061982 'The Ingot' (Center Top) 1.5A if this PS fails it can damage the computer. Not recommended ***** C061982 'The Peanut or The Box' (Top Right) 1.5A very reliable, recommended for XL/XE computers C70042-011 'The Mini' (Bottom Center) 1A shipped with most XEGS systems, better to use the LOGO over this wimp C70042-01 'The Logo' (Bottom Right) 1A very reliable, but only for machines with little to no mods installed.
  8. That is the evil ingot... it is the one I've got marked as (don't) use!
  9. @Glenn B. I always choose a supply of 1.5 amp or higher, I NEVER use the solid epoxy filled boat anchor of death ingot supply with the don't do it, don't touch it, don't go this way symbol on it... that do not symbol is not lying... stay away from that power supply... it fails in a way that murders your Atari.. I like the two bricks on the left, and sometimes the peanut on the upper right. I stay away from the 1 amp wimps. make sure when you order that they do not ship you the wimpy 1 amps supplies or the deadly ingot. looking around AtariAge you will find the picture above with poo on the weak or deadly ones as well. C061982 'The White Brick' (Upper left) 1.5A very reliable C061982 'The Black Brick' (Lower Left) 1.5A very reliable ******C061982 'The Ingot' (Center Top) 1.5A if this PS fails it can damage the computer. Not recommended ***** C061982 'The Peanut or The Box' (Top Right) 1.5A very reliable, recommended for XL/XE computers C70042-011 'The Mini' (Bottom Center) 1A shipped with most XEGS systems, better to use the LOGO over this wimp C70042-01 'The Logo' (Bottom Right) 1A very reliable, but only for machines with little to no mods installed.
  10. So I accidentally click the AA graphic logo next to the Atari 8-Bit Computers Forum in the list... know what happen? It marks every last things as having been read... I knew how to do in other ways and it's clear what you are doing for topics, threads, and forums in those ways... but clicking on the logo first things on the left of a forum in the normal list page.... wow... any way to reverse that? If you touch the AA logo it touches you back in a not so nifty way... 😮
  11. looks like the hole also allowed media smear, so it might be the disk needs a slight clean/touch up as well as the drive head..
  12. it's always good to be accurate and it will help those historians and self builders to know happened and where to go and follow along or up maybe... it's always a nice thing when a stickler gets corrected even if it's felt not to be significant any longer just because many are built that way... it makes folks happy. the project is kind of everywhere so knowing it's incarnations and nomenclature might be important now and into the future ?
  13. asked and answered in another thread, You are correct in that this was an unrelated question. Please consider checking out the related topic and post for that answer. By dong this there will be no need for further cross posting on my part or yours.
  14. Glen B ... it's not for the 800 or the 800xl, get the actual supply brick from B&C, BEST, online sites that sell retro etc... XL's/XE's take 5.0 to 5.2 V DC from external power supplies 400/800 take AC from step down transformer blocks and have their own power boards inside. The 11.5 V DC supply is too much and will kill components.
  15. https://atariwiki.org/wiki/Wiki.jsp?page=SDrive-MAX a little more info... there are a few ATR's and what not to check out and you can install at the root, but I haven't heard of any issues with using the SD card per usual... save some cards being too large and needing to be formatted fat32 or something like that. so long as your computers OS doesn't have some scan/fix errors on insert or reformat on insert set up you should be fine. I've only heard of that happening maybe once or twice.. or some mention of . dot files causing issues from mac users... though some thread talks of turning that off, removing, or hiding them.
  16. if people are allowed to suggest modern stuff then you don't have to do that either... but it seems only one side of the coin need be looked at... this is why people end up making add on boards and such other mods to stuff later on to add back in what they thought would be useless later on... like Cartridge ports or SIO ports or even special stuff custom made to overcome the issues so folks can have lets say a fujinet, or other Cartridge based devices and new homebrews that are only on cart at this time, etc etc. I am always for adding functionality, fun, and simplification, but sometimes that comes to the detriment of a project... I want to see your project succeed and be used by many... not just obtained to get it done and sitting in a pile of stuff people get to support a project but ultimately don't like or use. I don't think drams are necessary but it could be an option for some. I personally have drawers full of em and they're dirt cheap. It doesn't take much to support both, and provided a spot a header and add on pcb could allow it if a person wanted to go that route as well... possibilities are endless... As an afterthought I went back and skimmed along the thread. I didn't see anyone say you had to do a thing or must do a thing, I believe everyone is being helpful. Save people indicating what you are or are not allowed to say, suggest or do.
  17. https://www.vintagecomputercenter.com/product/sdrive-max scroll down to the files section in the above link https://github.com/kbr-net/sdrive-max or read some stuff here.... ^^^ https://atari8bit.net/tutorials/de-re-sdrive-max/ or you could follow along with some tutorials in this last link.. there's more if you use the search box on AA or online search engine as well. Hope that helps
  18. I don't understand... are we supposed to sign up for it here? There may be other considerations with the holidays being so expensive this year... The pandemic handling hasn't been kind to shipping and other things either... prices for many things are through the roof so many people don't have fun money let alone discretionary spending mone... it's not they no one wants this... it's that no one has the ability to do so when everything is up 10 to 25 percent in cost at least here in the United States... though I'm told it's been tough other places as well. I certain that as soon as folks have a little jingle jangle in their pockets they'll come back to buying again.
  19. is it possible any of the external memory cards and similar external extensions use ras and cas, or the myriad of other pbi devices? The are quite a number of items that use the pbi or cart devices, eprom programmers you name it, memory, hard drives, floppy, MULTI I/O devices, what of future devices. What harm is there in supplying whats already on the machines and keeping a standard... unless you have some special case new signals that can't be added to the pinout... but then you could have a jumper or switch swap them.
  20. why would device drivers need to be made for a refactored machine might I ask? is something new being added or attached beyond all of the normal items that come with them already. You have my curiosity.
  21. You will want to make atx and vapii back ups until you can kroflux or scp flux stream image the disks... That will make a useful reference for people to work on or through. If you can't or don't want to use a greaseweazle , kryoflux, or SCP... there are folks in the preservation thread who appear to be more than willing able and happy to do so for you
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