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_The Doctor__

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Posts posted by _The Doctor__

  1. Posted · Edited by _The Doctor__

    Because a printer is a printer and not everyone is buying a fujinet, especially folks who are getting all of their Atari stuff out of storage and are getting their old gear back into running condition... they already have pretty much everything and might just need a new printer or to fix the old one... they might not be looking to spend anything at all... iron on transfers and carbon copies as well as the feel of impacted print are other nostalgic points an inkjet or laser printer are not going to provide... some people aren't looking for a pc in the link... they just want the Atari to do it all, every last part of it. If fujinet has a way to print directly to the network printer that's one thing... but using the pc to load and then print the pdf is quite another. Showing a set up that print from Atari to fujinet to printer is the best thing, adding yet another computer in between is just a pain in the *ss some folks don't want.

     

    I hope that's helpful in the reasons why department

    • Like 3

  2. Posted · Edited by _The Doctor__

    the color space on modern displays are not correct so it can be a tall order... that is why Faicai uses a processor (a very nice but expensive one) to adjust all the parameters.

     

    Fixing the sccc for NTSC could be very simple, but more than likely you will need to be referencing an oscilloscope to show what it should be versus what it is and consulting with the creator of the card... as he'd be able to calculate the difference and give you a better fit versus trial and error thus reducing the amount of rework needed.

  4. Posted · Edited by _The Doctor__

    it may be possible changing that resistor but I also think if that fails a capacitor might be involved as well..

     

    I edited as I went so some quotes will be wrong and might need re quoting or edits

     

    You still are much closer so that's a good thing... it's a tough thing to have multiple items on a televisions that doesn't do presets for each input like some of the displays of old.

  5. Posted · Edited by _The Doctor__

    good so you are closer

    your monitor / tv has prolly

    color tone- cool, normal, warm, warmer

    adjust til closer but not messing up normal colors

    it also should have standard mode etc. that will unlock color space

    it should give native / auto / and some other choice

    try those... native usually give a wider color space

    and auto fudges it a little...

    there is a flesh tone setting

    continuing down is individual colors r g b.... and tint control

     

    utilizing these you should be able to dial things in.

     

    The SCCC is not calibrated to NTSC properly so it would seem adjusting like this all we can do atm... being based on the uav this is odd indeed...

     

  7. Posted · Edited by _The Doctor__

    yep the part about supporting circuitry ALSO affected this is at play...since sccc relies on internal uav (if you look at it) as part of it's build the inversion jumper is there... but you might try adjusting the delay the other way... it's overshooting one then the other in this case?

     

    is there a color space adjust on you television? sometimes called native color or some other ....

     

  9. Posted · Edited by _The Doctor__

    There is no one size fits all on this one guys... some of the programs only let you set the artifact color once at initial run.

    It seems also that some people are unaware or forget that artifact color changed during production, as one chip artifacted + a half color clock or the - a half color clock... and the supporting circuitry also affected this....

    that is why some programs ask you what you see and you answer, then it sets the correct profile...

    as usual I don't give you the engineering manual on it, just the gist of it. You can of course refer back to all that and also scour the forums for it.

     

    add to this the different colorspace of LCD monitors and modern day tv sets and you'll have a cumulative issue. You sometimes have to dig deep in a modern tv to find the settings to handle some of it.

  11. Posted · Edited by _The Doctor__

    believe it or not the purest IPA is still good at getting gunk out, dried ink, ribbon fabric, paper dust that joins with those and sticky label material... it's a cleaning followed by wd 40 or a touch of blaster, and repeat. then it's the standard dot matrix lube of the day, or nothing at all. Print heads get very hot... most lubes burn off, whatever the equivalent today, it must be thin and high temperature, or failing that, nothing at all. You don't want burnt oil gumming up the works. You can re pin or rehammer print heads, but usually if it is truly worn down, replacing the head is the easiest move. just pick something with paper handling problems and steal it's head.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  15. Posted

    in order to fix the artifact, the pot need to be able to advance through a color clock and/or retard through a color clock... the artifacts are base on a half color clock so you need full swing to dial it in, use of a capacitor has been use to firm/alter artifacts on NTSC and XE's and XL's but looking at SCCC it looks like the only way to do it is with his delay pot. Just some food for though. I didn't dig further, and I'm sure folks with slide rules and mega cool degrees working with  $$$ equipment would have something to say anyway. I am just giving a where to look, and possible what to do... pointer in the direction of the problem.

  16. Posted · Edited by _The Doctor__

    57 minutes ago, Stephen said:

    I'm bummed - the print head in my Panasonic KXP is worn out.  It's like the pins are now too short - regardless of how close I adjust the printhead, the print is too light.  Even with new ribbons.  Even when I have it adjusted so close to the paper that it leaves a smudge line.  I enjoy having a printer connected directly to the Atari, especially a dot matrix that takes fanfold paper (which I still have most of a 5000 sheet box).  I am not sure what to do - find another one, or just give up and use one of the newer solutions.

    You need to lube the print head and have it self test with the paper/platen further away to work off the stickies or rust gunk. Then with a new ribbon / fresh ink try again moving the paper/platen closer again. This sometimes does the trick and gets the pins throwing full stroke again.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

  17. Posted

    the sx212 and other r: verter handlers might be best folded int the 850 handler to correct and/or be shoehorned for some things... I think some folks also posted how to switch the 850 with methods of upload code or direct mode ... more than likely @warerat ? would have had something to say or post about it. Pretty sure he'd be able to comment one way or another, no one says you have to use the exact 850 handler. You might offer 850 strict mode and fujinet mode R: handlers...

  19. Posted · Edited by _The Doctor__

    I have a cord where where black on the cord is yellow on the monitor, white on cord is audio on monitor, red on cord is luma, and yellow on cord is chroma.

    That's 4 plugs on one cord and the only one even close to what you would thing was correct is the white cord in the scheme of things...

    so that's what Dr.Venkman means..

  20. Posted · Edited by _The Doctor__

    Having a good laugh at the moment.  wow... and it's got a long way to go... wonder if it's going to really get paid at the end or if it will be one of those oh the other guy backed out but I'll sell it to you for your last bid made before the guy stiffed me type deals...   those are the ones where I say no, but if you go all the way back to the last bid before he started bidding then yes! certainly. :)

     

    as for over heating... yup, always beefed that stuff up and made sure to ventilate em...

    • Like 1

  21. Posted · Edited by _The Doctor__

    yeah it looks like the wrong signal being supplied... I bet the cable is not following the standard... it was common for cables that fit the Atari to be used with it but the pin outs being incorrect often crossed the signals or simply put the signal on the wrong colored RCA jack/plug. Most of them were use able but you had to re label the RCA side of things

  23. Posted · Edited by _The Doctor__

    US doubler upgrade.. double check the solder on the stacked chips and seating.... they may have not done a great job or used acid core solder, so per usual clean and re seat make sure chips are oriented by the silk screening... white outlines and writing on the pcb

     

  25. Posted

    check the UAV itself for cold solder joins/ points, make sure it's seated in the socket properly and if 4050 is still present that it's clean and seated as well, or if soldered to the chip, same deal about joints.. make sure the video cable is good, monitor adjusted

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