_The Doctor__

You said you got an error though and it reported something. If you do a single sided single density disk just for the purpose of supplying config.sys etc. then it will be slightly faster booting as well.

gently open and close the drive door and make sure nothing is in it... if the pressure and release cam is broken, you will have to replace it. There were 3D printed ones for the tandon mech so you might have to search 1050 tandon indus to find it again. Once you are sure it's broken, you need to take the long shaft out that is held in by circlips and slide the old one off as you do it, and then press the new one on as you feed the shaft back in. there is either a screw or spring steal that prevent the cam from spinning once you have it in and where it belongs so you will fasten it after it's in.

clean the drive head with a single sided cleaning disk. then load the drivers, it will still be slow until the drivers load and kick in, it will use a little memory to do so as well.

unless something has changed and this one is different, gal emmu also isn't 100%... second PIA mods fail. using the replacements I've tried so far, alond with other fun timing glitches. You can search AA and find some anecdotes and discussion about it. It will be great if this one slays those dragons.

NO, you need your own copy of the weather.atr... everyone can't load and save to the one on someone else's tnfs server!

No he said he updated the software and your old keys won't be there, you will have to enter them back in... any future software update should be able to retain your' api key so you won't have to put your' key in again for the future. make sure you are running the latest fujinet firmware and latest weather.atr

also check power switch and barrel connector... It wouldn't be the first time power was good right up until the jack on the board... damage by getting yanked side ways or broken joint... power switch internally stuck open from sitting for years etc... check for 5 volts out of the voltage regulators in the indus... check for 11.x to 12.x in...

I'm still glad to see them as Diamond 3.0 carts that's for sure. The stand alone RTC carts have their uses as well. The MIO diagnostic cart would be handy to have as an instant ready to go tool, as opposed to emulated carts etc. I find most of the PASS Through selectable carts very desirable. I'd certainly believe the Jones mod should be done for SDX carts, it's just so darn convenient to have as much in CAR: as possible especially with later SDX builds. It's great to have such choices today, Thank you @kenames99 _T D__

The plug ins section will see some more use now I wouldn't want a performance hit at all. Having the built-in CIO “Z:” RTC device handler was a plus, sorry to see you had to dispense with it for now. If there was some way to have the device provide it's own flavor of bios for u1m/incognito to incorporate/grab. that would be ideal. Is a goal going to be everything modular as plug ins into the future? That makes good sense to me. I of course am not knowing how the plug ins allocate space, would it be wasteful in some way to do that. It sounds kind of tight in there. All of this probably already contemplated but still some thoughts.

bottom line, you can no longer just swap side cartridges anymore. It appears the u1m and or possibly incognito firmware are tailored to the version of side cartridge now. side3 departs from side 1/2 in some way it would seem. Time to see if there is a write up of what's changed between them.

If you see 4.8 to 5.2 everywhere else and it's only low at the sio port then you might consider reinforcing the trace that feeds it, make sure there isn't anything else choking or bleeding of power... the fujinet is a pass through device and the Atari should still be able to power other SIO devices. This is why some things were either externally powered or dead ended the SIO chain.

sounds almost like a problem that happened with shrinking memory of a boot manager I used for the BBS back in 89 or 90... sparta and the manager would slowly eat up memory as the pointer slowly drifted during continued non power cycled use, I think there was a two byte fix that was done to it and solved the issue. I don't remember if it pulled the bytes from some other area or if it was just to lie to it and set them at some default value... but it definitely did not track properly before the fix.

😮

Okay basic chip back in, does it boot to basic? holding down option while turning on, does it boot to basic?

4.7 is out of tolerance for most Atari peripherals... 4.75 is at the bleeding edge... 4.8-5.2 is in spec and anything above 5.2 is not a great idea//

star raiders with basic out should have yielded something other than the self test I would have thought.

around 20:30 the first national v g tourny was hosted by Atari... shortly into that the garble began

check the flip side of the socket where you put sophia with a smart phone or magnifying glass for solder blobs and bridges across the pins and pads... I can't see then well enough in the picture but it sure does look like they've been worked on and such things are common happening for a number of happy hackers

the chips I mentioned won't be the same 'u' number in the 400 but you should be able to find matching chips... after the the other things I mentioned... pulling basic shouldn't hurt anything... try a cart plugged in with basic out... next is to swap the OS chip... not interchangeable really as XL has pbi and 400 doesn't they just aren't the same... so swapping those don't work for the long haul.

clean that cart port again, I blew up the image and there is stuff in the base of it, it can hold a cartridge up too high or even be shorting signals/interfering with contact. Do not weaken the port by spreading the swipes, jamming swabs in there often weakens the ports, only use card edge cleaner or diy equivalents that are the width of a standard carts pcb. hold the pcb upside down and blow it out if you have too...

@Mariano DM without really reading as I am out the door. did you try device sparta banked? have you tried this procedure and are you fully updated?

Insanity, insanity! Magnets go no where near a CRT, magnets go no where near DISKS, TAPES... oh my, I can't begin to think how this all ends in tears! consider putting push latch switches near case holes or vents, in on position they stick out a little in the other they are flush...

wasn't it discovered the extension disks are paired to the revision and though we all named the extension disks the same... the correct extension disk (there are two out there) must be matched up with the correct revision BXE cartridge. are we saying it's still broken even with the correctly matched extension disk?

thorfdbg the whole reason the original 800 had a dual floating bus with slots continuing the evolution but not entirely migrating across the 1000 series through the 1400's and ending up with a (the) PBI OS we currently have was and is so we would not use up system RAM and could swap out the area with whatever pbi ID device that needs it at that time. This is why the MIO can swap in and out without damaging anything, same as the CSS black box (though it eats all ID's). This window or keyhole allows the OS the be altered transparently(for the most part) by the connected device. It won't eat your ram or other resources, the benefits have been instrumental in allowing the A8 to reach some of it's potential and is being used by many of wonderful, indispensable products (New as well as Old). I glazed over and hope if it's not too much trouble to explain what's at issue, I miss quite a bit these days... the vultures circle... please clarify for my benefit in some other way what's bad about the pbi portion of the Atari OS so I can understand, do we need to modify or change it in some way?

I think the idea was a drop in replacement board with little or no need to buy any other kind of parts, fixing up all the cost reduction and bodges to give us a solid foundation to build on, instead of the constantly cost reduced flimsy trace pcb the tramiels gave us. for instance adding back in some of the original timing circuit clean up the video a bit, all of the traces and pads are there, it just needed a partial re population. leaving both available give the end user a choice to go either way. another is the bodge wires that deal with a timing issue or other mistake, getting rid of those is a very nice thing. *edit* part of what is talked about is obsoleted as @Mathy has a really really great solution! and in fact convenient upgrade holes for header and the like is a very nice touch as well everyone here are really sharing their experience and it's wonderful