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_The Doctor__

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Everything posted by _The Doctor__

  1. have you any extra 1n5's? If so try putting one on the other data line with polarity the other way around... then one on power if that didn't work... YOU SHOULD NEVER POWER THIS WITH USB CORD AT THE SAME TIME AS POWERING THE ATARI... some chinese boards do bad things like that.. I use a 9 volt battery to the power in barrel jack myself... you can bet others are using the power jack also, either with an adapter or straight up supply. I never like the idea of turning stuff on and off , on and off, and on .... etc...
  2. I'm all for any copy we can get if there is no original... but we have to keep track of what is or isn't so the search continues for the original. It's part of the protocol. We want every piece we can find. Just have to notate it's provenance so as to make it all happen. The info still goes for folks making/reconstituting disks. Make sure to use the UN-formatted truly blank disks... otherwise the it may fail... or turn up later causing an issue..
  3. Knives scare me, guns not so much... specially in close quarters...
  4. If someone states the disk is from an already copied disk, then the disk is not an original.. this is suppose to be straight cracks from original images and the atx generated from them... It should be noted to all who are trying to use the cracks or recreate from streams or atx files to always use blank never before used disks or BULK erase/ De-gaused disks! This means virgin disks or completely devoid or data/format disks folks... so please make sure the disks are not pre formatted, used etc. if they are you really should bulk erase or degause them...
  5. de oxit is your best choice to go, If prying up keys make sure to do the straight up make your own pulling tool if needed, that way nothing cracks or breaks. Unless you see cold solder joints or the cable is oxiddised or damage you should be able to get it going again no problem, Just enough to clean the contacts. or a touch or two of a soldering iron.
  6. Funny enough, Atari was doing that for NES... (tengen) and in the second link you can find something to download it to try out for yourself... both in the page and at the bottom, better try to run it on real hardware... no where near complete either...
  7. I am of the opinion all such FSM should be corrected and replaced..... this is not a case of keeping paper as it was but preserving the machines themselves!
  8. to clarify you want him to select 'highlight' a different empty slot.... one tip.. remember to SAVE config once it is all empty... D0: not highlighted D1: boot off and empty slot not selected. then save. if still no go try selecting cassette but paused... this should not be the situation, but we are in the try anything to help line of though atm
  9. Funny thing is I have 4 drive set as D1: switching them on or off as needed but... the rest of the stack is doubled up as 1050 describes... using one of each pair switched on the other off, to further complicate it and to the complete loss of reasoning function of young ones... I switch them around using the BB, MIO, drive re assignment and sometime the logical re assignments within certain DOS versions. At that point the on lookers lose cohesive thought, start looking at the screen mouth breathing and looking like a skull garden...
  10. with all the different versions shown, an Atari version might just end up being the 'Most Playable' version but who knows we could be surprised - stranger thing happen, and have! With all that being said much better and easier to do versions of other racers might be a great warm up. I'd certainly love the best done versions of a handful a racers. A combination or the best ones sounds like a wonderful idea!
  11. if the buffer area is shared between modes of operation that could be tricky but it sure sounds like a nice idea to have that as a lockable option
    1. Show previous comments  3 more
    2. _The Doctor__

      _The Doctor__

      It was a super stretch limousine.

      at franksabodragon? pm me.

    3. frankodragon

      frankodragon

      A few hours ago, someone by the name of "Maria", obviously a spammer, was trying to beg money on someone else's misfortune. It was removed from the first link but "Maria" is also spamming others on the site.

    4. _The Doctor__

      _The Doctor__

      Spammer is gone. Looks like a bigger issue for gofundme to handle

  12. I've learned the hard way... to assume is to make an ass of u and me sorry had to do it...
  13. no need to apologize, the code was correct for the condition. you would have had to made sure to put all the chips back in that were there before. best of all you have repaired the machine(s)
  14. It does work well, and don't forget all of the typing software we have as well.
  15. The disks need to be kryo fluxed, then the mystery will be solved by the very talented goup of disk detectives. Original disks always are welcome at preservation project thread and website. They always preserved and returned. Handled with the utmost in care.
  16. always include your latest dns ip resolution in your posts it helps all those souls who were told to get a uds 10/100 instead of mss or better serial console servers...
  17. so long as drive powers up and posts normal with disk inserted.. easy enough to check, use dos 2.5....or mydos, boot in d1: of ape... disconnect ape and device.... leaving drive and computer on and in the chain... try your directories... 2 3 4 1.. one of those respond? If still nothing check you 1050 switches are in proper position still nothing? reverse them, try again.. still no joy? Use tuner cleaner in 1050 slide switches and work them... working great! still not working. check your sio cords... all good? change drive select chip...
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