_The Doctor__

If you know the history. never the same color isn't true at all, and pal had the same issues till 1970 in many respects. My overly simplistic response does not include all dates and changes but gives the general idea. Somewhere on the forums I and others completely dissected this to it's inception. so search it out for some good ole technical talk and fun. You can drill down on phases and quadrature encoding if you so desire... I'll make mistakes now as it's all fading away, but it doesn't mean it isn't in there. It's easy enough to rediscover. Like I said, they adjusted the color pot and made a tweak here or there. but for the most part if the teleivision is adjusted to broadcast standards and the computer is adjusted to the tv it all comes out pretty much like it should. Artifacting is where the real evil begins. And it was fun getting all the artifacts included in a handy dandy video upgrade everyone loves. that discussion took a year or more til someone could see it and verified it. Anyway my days of calibrating displays are long gone, well almost, this past week.. frequency- notice 59 and not 60? because 59.99 whatever is just like the Atari STILL. I listen to folks complain about real time clocks over the years.. once the Atari is counting the time you have to adjust for the real frequency or you need to pull the time from the real time clock and update it before it drifts. The Atari is not at fault. it's timing is correct, the error is with the persons code. This is true to this day. Please note how bad an iPhone camera mangles this display! The slightly less than 60 is significant for programming also, you have to cut a things just short of what you think you have so that you don't end up getting some issues. How many times people miss count...

Green? Why green? I don't get it... If the Atari is calibrated to proper color on the broadcast standard used by the display device the color will be correct. If the Atari is paired up with the same system it was intended to be used with they will match. You run into the problems when you take ntsc 1 equipment and mixe it with NTSC II equipment and don't adjust one to match the other. Do you know the years the systems switched since 1938? 1953 colorimetric values 1987 SMPTE C (Conrac) without color correction (1994). a consequence 480i signals, SMPTE "C" colorimetry should be assumed unless colorimetric data is included in the transport stream for modern television Japanese NTSC never changed primaries and whitepoints to SMPTE "C" and continued to use the 1953 NTSC primaries and whitepoints. Both the PAL and SECAM systems used the original 1953 NTSC colorimetry as well until 1970 unlike NTSC the European Broadcasting Union (EBU) rejected color correction in receivers and studio monitors that year and called for all equipment to directly encode signals for the "EBU" colorimetric values to improve color fidelity The earliest 800's had some color issues and in true Atari form, there were mix ups as to what should be what and when.. but they at least adjusted the color pot to put the correct colors on the televisions of that year... this isn't that difficult! I tried to include links to wiki but realized what a mess it is to do so

The colors should be the same or super close no matter what color system used. Gold or Yellow brown is not the color for our fury friend no matter what calibration method is used.. this is an issue that Rasta exacerbates. This is also why the program(RASTA) needs to be told which system to process for and it is still 1 color off in that mode. NTSC 1 and NTSC II are not so far apart that this should be so visible if you wish to go down that path. The broadcast industry would have imploded if that had been the case, but the first system was not in use very long. Just about all are calibrated to the 2nd NTSC colorspace unless you are going back to CTIA and the earliest designs... in which case you would not be running much of anything on that machine either. At one time even the emulator had 2 choices for palette and currently has a further luma correction added. I've got nearly the same results using, 800, 800XL, 130XE. JVC television, Olevia LCD, Samsung modern display, or NEC crt. SInce you questioned calibration... I hooked up to kid's RCA tv and and an old Magnavox monitor that were NOT calibrated outside of what the factory did during manufacture. I also snagged my daughters 130XE that was not touched in color adjustment or video since it rolled of Atari's assembly line. SAME results. I am providing feedback to make things the best they can be. There is no need to defend or equivocate about close enough etc. The title screen on the first Space Harrier and it's title screen worked very well on both sides of the pond (although some complained of flicker) It probably would require two versions or a way to select color palette to please everyone. All I did was report the findings errors and bugs as requested with a snapshot to show what is on the screen. But now that I have got the same results on a multitude of systems and displays... I think I'll stand by what is. It helped then and I am pretty sure it will help now to report everything we find no matter how big or small on this labor of love, my only regret is I no longer have a Space Harrier arcade cabinet close by to do direct comparison with. I bet it's in someones personal arcade somewhere now.

hmmm peterson 320K for next to nothing or 100 dollars for a u1m... yeah... 320K easy to repair... u1m fried your f*cked. when it was 68-69 dollars it was fine... because of all it offered. Now not so much. If you have money to burn the U1M is the way to go, if not... have at it with a soldering iron...

I bet a suggestion of a metal enclosure would get a complaint of the paint would scratch or it would damage other things because it's metal and heavy or sharp or too much weight to lug to meeting or.... ah can't win.... oh well clear shipping film... just saran wrap it done...

switch the guts ST mouse case etc. Make your own, 3D printed, find some color matches anythings possible I guess

clue is SEA... they use that as the short name for it.. prolly.... SEA.ACT or GUL.ACT or SEAGUL.act or .com .obx etc. etc. something near that

Net play or modem play... using a modem or serial to lan converter (perle, lantronix, etc.) raw or telnet.. hhhmmm joy232? like the old mpp style... yeah that'd do it...

Do you have any other method to load with other than the ultimate cart? all the newer storage devices generally have issues without cartridge port modifications.. I was about to write up the simple mod but there is more than one way to skin this cat... there are a few fix methods but 2 popular ones are listed here I think... https://www.wudsn.com/index.php/productions-atari800/tools/thecart/atari-800-fix

hmmmm let us ram that under the rom.....

Yes customs are alerted to company names and only randomly sample common names of people gift or otherwise.....

My equipment is calibrated and the Monitor is as well. It is real hardware, no emulation, it's the same machine with almost same setup as used during the first Space Harrier work. 130XE with MIO, etc.. only differences are testing using AVG / Ultimate cartridges in place of the 1050 and then the later Atarimax cartridge. Demo screen glitch is verified on real hardware as well, probably the same issue tied in with title to game start. Pressing the gtia start select option keys... The photo I sent is what it looks like across 3 machines.. the camera flash made it look washed out as I was primarily worried about colors, not black levels and just snapped a quick shot.

Too explain what Nir says in more detail, a quick press of start works -but- when holding down start you will get black screen and digi-sound crash... as can be seen in the picture colors are off kilter for NTSC 60 other issues... thank you screen with Space Harrier Logo scroll up sometimes occurs before title screen...sometimes it doesn't...you can't read it unless you are speed reader. could it be a timer difference between 50/60 for duration... sometimes title screen animations do not occur or are frozen, pressing reset clears the condition as it comes up again.. The game itself seems faster and more frantic but I could be out of shape, haven't played in a while.... I should warm up with the old version... then compare to new one...

If I understand correctly.... You need 50 people using NTSC with English Language to pre-order then we can get titles made and delivered as NTSC English language converted software etc. If this is the case a thread requesting pre order on all Atari related web forums should net that easily I would think.

really wish he'd learn not to use his company name when shipping overseas... he should use a pets name or his own... then you have a better chance of not getting hit like that...

Might need some adjustment.. NTSC might just need the color numbers adjusted or rasta set to ntsc (whichever of the 2 standards) Rasta treats NTSC and PAL on a very exaggerated difference in the red/ reddish brown realm.. red/ redish brown is normally easy to do on NTSC but harder on PAL.. Rasta reverses that situation.. needs almost a 2 place correction... I sometimes thought that the palette color number choices would need to be adjusted in game for NTSC as well... though much closer than the title is here would love a changelog or summation to satisfy curiosity loads in AVG cart without issue. I got my butt handed to me, Probably because I'm ready to sleep.

starting to think I could have paddled or sail boated to china and returned with diodes in hand by now...

have you tried keeping drives 1-4 empty on your sio 2 whatever yet and slots 5 and up loaded to see how they get along with the sdrive max? have you booted with all drives empty on ape and sdrive while watching the sio data in the ape window? if you see the error being reported in the sio data then you know it's not off and you will have sio collisions. the solution then would be to have and off button on the next rev of the firmware.. an empty slot/drive should give errors where as turning off the slot should ignore all sio.. that's all there is for that situation if that's the case.... sigh when will my diodes arrive? maybe I should just cannibalize something else in the mean-time.

The Resistance Cove BBS is back up... 73.154.49.234,23

plastic washers alleviate the problem to a degree.

As a bundle? -Not from Atari but maybe from a vendor. The tapes and cases are genuine. I don't know what identification is needed?

The star wars games like that play way better on the real thing. centering for the trench is even better. Emu's have difficulty with these titles. like how the death star died when it clealy missed in the middle of that video?.... terrible. on real Atari 8 bit you have to get it for real and it lines up for real... the game could be improved with todays tools and programmers btw.. faster math pack wouldn't hurt either.

gentle penetrating heat and constant slow pressure is the only way to lift labels without damage.. I don't remember if it need damage the labels to disassemble, The boards were all taken out of carts to prevent heat from damaging them... later we shipped them that way.. not cased... it kept the machine cooler and damage free in all environments (it also lowered costs). If you took it in for service you generally got it back with the cards uncased.

Couldn't afford one if Lotherik produced it hopefully some one else will.

under the picture it says.... http://www.emulators.com/freefile/xformer10.zip if you read it and click it you got it.