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EricBall

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  1. EricBall
    I've been using emulators since early MAME days.  However, I've also recognized there isn't much difference between preservation and piracy.  But I figured there isn't much risk of prosecution when emulating games which could no longer be purchased.
     
    So I have to wonder what the developers of Yuzu, a Nintendo Switch emulator, were thinking.  Nintendo is well known for being litigious and the Switch is still being sold and it's not a stretch to state that the emulator itself is resulting in lost hardware sales and lost software sales by encouraging piracy.  I'm actually surprised it took Nintendo this long to react.
     
    I also find the statement by the Yuzu team that "they never intended Yuzu to be used for piracy" laughable.  While they might have stated that publicly, they certainly used commercial software to validate and demonstrate the emulator.  There's a good chance they had to jump through various hoops to allow commercial games to work.
     
    So the obvious consequences occurred - Nintendo sued and the Yuzu team closed up shop; turning everything over to Nintendo and agreeing to pay $2.4M.
     
    Also, it is my understanding that Yuzu users were encouraged (maybe required) to financially support the development team.  I wonder if Nintendo is now in possession of that information and if they might actually go after end users....
  2. EricBall

    I have Escaped From Tarkov

    By EricBall,


    Escape from Tarkov
    After nearly 700 days of ownership and over 1450 hours of playtime I have decided to stop playing Escape From Tarkov.  Hopefully the withdrawal symptoms won't be too severe.
     
    This is not because EFT isn't a good game - otherwise I wouldn't have played it as much as I did.  It's more a combination of two factors:
    1. This wipe I was able to accomplish some landmark tasks - reaching PMC level 40 and completed the "The Punisher - Part 6" quest.
    2. There are probably other things I should be spending 2+ hours per day doing.
     
    This wipe (my third) saw definite improvement in my game over the last wipe.  However, I suspect the amount of time I was playing was a significant factor in how much I was able to accomplish.  Thus, while I likely would be able to achieve more next wipe, I suspect I wouldn't reach the same landmarks that much faster.  And, due to the nature of the game, the next landmarks (i.e. PMC level 42) aren't easily accomplished.
     
    So guess I've reached the point where I can honestly say "been there, done that, got the pix to prove it".
  3. EricBall

    retro 720p GPU addendum

    By EricBall,


    MAME
    I recently took the time to learn more about the graphics processors of the Sega Genesys & SNES and realized that my previous "retro 720p GPU" had a little too much Atari 7800 in it's design.  Really, if someone wanted to create an HD 2D GPU they really should start with the SNES (or the GBA or NDS) PPU as these really represent the ultimate in 2D GPU design.  However, IMHO there will be three main challenges which the designer will need to address:
    720p has a 74.23MHz pixel clock (versus 5.37MHz on the SNES) which will limit the number of tile layers & sprites per line and bits per pixel depending upon VRAM width & access speed.  Basically the PPU has to be able to fetch all of the data for each pixel of each tile & sprite from VRAM in less than 13.5ns. The SNES used a 32x2? tilemap with 8x8 tiles.  At 720p 8x8 tiles would be a 160x90 tilemap, 16x16 a 80x45 tilemap and 32x32 a 40x23 tilemap (closest to SNES).  So the question is what size tile is appropriate (although this could be selectable via different graphics modes).  In addition, larger tiles & sprites need more colors to make best use of those pixels.  (But note #1) While not as significant as #1 & #2, one minor challenge is the screen width is not a power of two.  If the width is a power of two then each X & Y positions are separate bits in the address byte.  So either the address calculation needs to use adders or there will be wasted space in the tilemaps for vertically scrolling games.   
    One enhancement to the SNES I would suggest is to have four address pointers for each tilemap (main, right, down & down+right).  This would greatly simplify scrolling games as the level could be loaded into VRAM screen by screen.
  4. EricBall

    N64 versus PS1

    By EricBall,


    MAME
    This past Christmas I bought an N64 for my son (and me) to enjoy my collection of games. (Although the problem turned out to be dirty cartridges rather than a dead N64.) He's been having a blast playing Super Mario 64 and the Mario Party games.

    This nostalgia rekindled my interest in what is under the hood of both it and the original PlayStation. It turns out there's a lot of similarities between the two, more than I would have expected.

    Both used a MIPS CPU (PSX: 32bit R3051 @ 33.8688 MHz, N64: 64bit R4300 @ 93.75MHz), both have a vector coprocessor (PSX: Geometry Transformation Engine, N64: Reality Signal Processor) and a graphics / triangle / texture processor.

    Of course there are the obvious differences too. The N64 is cartridge based, while the PSX is CD based. The PSX has a macroblock decoder for video decompression. The PSX GTE is integrated with the CPU (similar to the old 80x87 math coprocessors), while the N64 RSP has dedicated instruction & data RAM (like the SPEs in the PS3 Cell processor). The N64 has 4MB of main memory (500MB/s) while the PSX has 2MB of main memory (132MB/s) plus 1MB of memory dedicated to the GPU and 512K of memory dedicated to the sound processor.

    And even though the N64 had better "numbers" (e.g. CPU clock) than the PSX, Sony sold three times as many PlayStations as Nintendo sold N64s. And I have some theories why:
    First, Sony released the PlayStation 20 months before Nintendo released the N64, which gave them definite traction in the marketplace. The N64 launch library was also very thin (no matter how good SM64 was). Developers could already see the "virtuous cycle" starting with the PlayStation. Second, Sony's decision to use CDs (an easy decision for them given they helped invent CDs) and Nintendo's decision to stick with cartridges had a huge impact for multiple reasons CDs allowed developers to store more - more game content and/or prerecorded audio & video (which the built-in decoder enabled) lower manufacturing cost, it cost much less to press a CD than to manufacture a cartridge so higher profit per sale at a given price I heard that one of the reasons Nintendo stuck with cartridges is Nintendo did all of the manufacturing (charging publishers up front for runs of cartridges to boot), whereas the PlayStation CD could be replicated by nearly anyone who could press CDs.  
    Third, while Nintendo provided developers with C libraries, they didn't provide any low level details. And the provided graphics libraries were much slower than the "numbers" would suggest. So unless you were willing to spend a lot of time & effort reverse-engineering the libraries (e.g. Rare & Factor 5), it wasn't possible to fully exploit the N64 hardware and work around limitations. On the other hand, early third party developer Naughty Dog was able to leverage the PlayStation hardware at a very low level. Finally, although the unified memory on the N64 allowed the CPU & RSP to update the frame buffer (which causes problems with emulators today), I suspect this caused bottlenecks in memory access (especially random access due to the latency of the Rambus memory).  
  5. EricBall

    Escape From Tarkov made fair

    By EricBall,


    Escape from Tarkov
    One of the main mechanics of Escape From Tarkov is progression.  Primarily players complete quests in order to level up the NPC traders in order to obtain access to better gear.  However, there are numerous other ways for players to progress in EFT, typically giving them advantages over players who have not progressed.
     
    While progression is a significant part of what makes EFT more interesting to play, it also has some significant downsides:
    Players who have progressed more have advantages over those who have not - which typically makes the game much harder for players with less playtime or have joined the game late. Players eventually reach the end of each progression (and complete all of the quests).  So the developer must create more end-game content to keep these players engaged and periodically reset the progression of all players.  
    The question I asked myself is whether it is possible to create a viable game similar to EFT but without progression.  The biggest change would need to be to the traders as "levelling up" traders wouldn't exist.  Instead traders would have three tiers of equipment:
    The lowest tier of equipment, basically the same equipment used by the AI Scavs, can be purchased using "Trader cash" which is typically obtained by selling items to traders. The middle tier of equipment is obtained from the traders in exchange for items either obtained in raid or purchased from other players via the flea market.  It should also be possible to find this tier of equipment in raid. The top tier of equipment is given as rewards for completing daily & weekly tasks for the traders.  (Note: these items would not be considered to be "Found in Raid" and thus couldn't be sold on the flea market.)  
     
    Other progressions, i.e. PMC skills and the Hideout, could simply be dropped from the game.  Some other changes I would make:
    No secure container - all items brought into raid are at risk of being lost.  (Armbands would be considered to be clothing items and not at risk, but melee weapons would be.)  However there might still be value in having "special equipment slots" and allowing keys and other task items to be put in those slots.  No player Scavs.  Player scavs represent a method for players with the available time to make money risk free.  Instead players with assets below a certain threshold would be allowed to purchase (via real money) a "Trader cash" grubstake.  (Which would be what new players start with.) The flea market uses a separate "Player cash" currency from "Trader cash" as traders can buy non-"Found in Raid" items.  Thus players will be incentivized to list items found in raid on the flea market so they can buy (from the flea market) items they need for barters.  This may also help "balance" the "value" of items as players will sell items to traders or the flea market depending upon flea market prices. No storage containers.  The idea is to make the game equal for new players.  Containers allow players with more play time an opportunity to store more items than new players, and thus "put off" the decision on what to sell.  May also need to placing items inside bags & rigs in the stash for similar reasons.
    No higher priced editions, although there could be an opportunity for players to purchase cosmetic items for real money.
     
    The big advantage to players is new players or players who play infrequently won't be at an immediate disadvantage.  Obviously players will gain experience through play so will have an inherent advantage over players with less experience.  But this is the case for most non-computer games.  New players can also join at any time as there are no progression resets.
     
    The challenge for developers will be keeping those more experienced players interested and providing enough variety in gameplay.  However, in general it will be easier for developers to add new content on an on-going basis as it doesn't need to "work into" the existing quest/trader progression.
     
  6. EricBall

    Raspberry Pi 5

    By EricBall,


    rants
    The Raspberry Pi 5 was announced today, complete with websites and influencers giving reviews based upon pre-release hardware.
     
    Personally I'm unimpressed.
     
    For me the raison d'etre of the Raspberry Pi has been more about price than performance.  The original Raspberry Pi was little more than an SoC devkit built around a chip they could get cheap from Broadcom.  People used it because it was cheap and it had just enough processing power to make it useful for a lot of microcontroller tasks which were beyond what could be done with an Ardino.
     
    I have three Raspberry Pis (in order of purchase):
    A Raspberry Pi Zero W - originally bought to play back MPEG-2 OTA recordings (with license key to unlock the MPEG-2 hardware decoder), then repurposed for arcade & console emulation (which it was a little underpowered for), then back to playing back DVD rips. A Raspberry Pi 3A - the heart of my vertical barcade, once I determined the Zero wasn't quite fast enough for the job. A Raspberry Pi Pico - a true microcontroller, it measures the resistance of the thermistor in my water cooled computer and sends the calculated temperature over USB serial to a FanControl plugin to control the speed of the radiator cooling fans.  
    In each of these cases the RPi had sufficient processing power to handle the task while being also not costing a lot.  And while I am certain there were other SBCs which might have been just as capable and possibly even cheaper, the RPis are generally well supported by the community; often with plug & play images.
     
    But the primary features of the RPi5 just don't excite me.  Faster USB, SD & networking - that wasn't a pain point for me.  PCIe - even bigger nope.  Faster CPU & RAM - again, typically not an issue.  (OTOH, I had considered getting an RPi4 for horizontal arcade emulation.)
     
    When I look at the RPi5 I see several downsides: needs active cooling, needs a bigger power adapter, and is more expensive.
     
  7. EricBall

    (rant) self replicating robots

    By EricBall,


    rants
    "Turn asteroids into space habitats!  Just use self-replicating robots." Says the blurb - and I immediately stop reading.  Because, unlike the author, I've actually given the concept of self-replicating robots some thought and have concluded they are distinctly non-trivial and not something humanity is likely to create in my lifetime.
     
    In my case I was considering von-Neuman probes - inter-steller spacecraft which use the resources of the destination solar system to create replicas which are then sent out to other nearby solar systems.
     
    The problem with self-replicating spacecraft (or robots) is they have to be capable of a huge number of industrial processes as everything which makes up the spacecraft, including the machinery etc used for the processes, must be manufactured by the spacecraft from the raw materials it can obtainThis means the spacecraft not only needs to be able to fabricate integrated circuits, but it needs to be able to manufacture the machinery used to fabricate the integrated circuits, and able to manufacture the machinery used to refine raw ores, etc. etc.
     
    Once you start to think about what would be required, the idea of a self-replicating robot becomes laughable.  An inter-planetary spacecraft, certainly because size isn't as much of a factor.  One question is whether it would be possible to obtain or synthesize all of the necessary materials by mining asteroids and the inter-planetary medium to avoid the need to enter and exit planetary gravity wells & atmosphere.
  8. EricBall

    portable retro gaming

    By EricBall,


    MAME
    After seeing it on a YouTube video, I've ordered an SF2000.  Physically it looks like an SNES controller with a built-in screen.  It includes emulators and full rom sets (!) for NES, SNES, GB, GBC, GBA, and Genesis.  Unfortunately the SoC doesn't seem to have the power for SNES and GBA, but at less than C$30 (shipped) I'm not going to complain too much.  And who knows, maybe the hacking scene will figure out how to improve performance.
     
    But it got me to thinking about the "perfect portable retro system".  
    able to emulate all 2D consoles & handhelds six action buttons for Genesis (along with D-Pad, analog stick & shoulder buttons) start, select & menu buttons headphone jack and/or bluetooth headset (skip the A/V out) hi-res 4:3 LCD 640x480 minimum, ideally 1024x768 or higher SoC with built in scaling & window+border Decent menu with config options (e.g. button mapping, pixel/screen scaling)  
    Display is tricky for any multi-emulator because of the different resolutions and display and pixel aspect ratios of the original system.  Having a higher resolution gives more options.
  9. EricBall

    What Was Your Longest-Lived PC?

    By EricBall,


    Old Computers
    This Slashdot thread got me to thinking about the PCs I have purchased over the years.
     
    1989 12MHz 80286 - bought it on my first work term in university and used while in university.
    1993 66MHz 80486DX2 with VLB motherboard - bought after I graduated and started working for IBM
    1998 MediaGX Ambra Ispirati - this was a real dog of a computer which I wouldn't have bought except we received a $1000 gift certificate with our mortgage
    2001 Athlon XP with nForce 420 motherboard - the Athlon series was the first time where AMD CPUs were significantly better than the Intel offerings of the time; nForce also included very good integrated graphics (and sound IIRC)
    2010 Dell Inspiron 545 Q8300 2.5GHz Core 2 Quad - while I tried to stay off the upgrade treadmill as long as I could, I eventually an upgrade was required because the Athlon wasn't stable anymore.  However, I also decided at the time a prebuilt would fit my non-gaming needs
    2012 Acer Aspire One netbook - be bought this one because we had a house fire so needed something cheap to get back online. I have to say I really love this form factor - a 10" screen is just big enough for a typable keyboard.  Still have this one and use it occasionally when I want something super portable.
    2014 Late 2013 27” iMac 3.5GHz i7 w/ GTX 780M - after years of Windows I joined my wife on the Mac bandwagon.  This is currently my "secondary" computer - which gets used for work-time play and when my son is using the current computer.  Love the screen!  Unfortunately the Mac ease-of-use mantra has gone downhill over the years IMHO.
    2020 AMD Ryzen 5 3600 w/ GTX 1650 Super - while the GTX 780M in the iMac was powerful at the time (especially for an iMac) it was basically a gaming laptop with a really nice screen.  So at the start of COVID I decided to actually assemble the PC I had been dreaming about for the previous 6 months.  (And a good thing too - it wasn't long after that GPU prices got stupid.)  This year I upgraded to an RTX 3080 and watercooling for noise reasons.  (Might still upgrade the CPU if I can justify the cost.)
     
    Hmm... so in first place is the Athlon XP which lasted ~9 years.  Second place is the iMac which was my primary system for 6 years, although it hasn't been fully retired.  In addition I still use my wife's Early 2011 13" MacBook Pro when I need a non-work laptop.  (She replaced it with a Chromebook and then with an Acer Spin 15.)
     
    Also notable is (unlike some of the respondents) each of my new computers has been a "forklift upgrade" - i.e. everything replaced.  In fact, I hadn't upgraded the CPU or GPU prior to my current computer.
  10. EricBall

    There's a hole in the bucket

    By EricBall,


    Old Computers
    I've been clearing out the basement by selling or giving away stuff which hasn't been used in a decade or more. 
     
    One of the items which I plan on getting rid of is an old IBM Thinkpad 765L.  Amazingly it still works (although the battery doesn't hold a charge, which isn't surprising) and it even has a clean copy of Windows 98 installed.  It also seems to have what appears to be files restored from old backups.  Files which I aren't on my external backup drive.  So before I put it up on Kijiji I need to copy off the files, but this has turned out to be a little more difficult than I expected.
     
    The Thinkpad doesn't have a USB port so I can't simply plug in the external backup drive and copy them over.
     
    My first plan was to connect the Thinkpad to the router and copy the files to a USB drive using the router's built-in file share.  Unfortunately, while I have two Etherjet cards the one Etherjet cable I have is bad.  So the laptop recognizes the card, but doesn't get an IP address.
     
    The second plan was to pull the drive from the Thinkpad, connect it to an IDE to USB adapter I have and read the files directly from the drive.  But my iMac and Windows laptops refuse to recognize the drive and even Linux fails to boot with the drive connected.
     
    Simply copying the files to floppy (as I have both a USB floppy drive and a the floppy drive for the Thinkpad) isn't an option as the files are ~300MB.  What the Thinkpad does have is a serial port.  So I should be able to connect it via a null modem cable to another computer and then transfer the files that way. Of course none of my main computers have serial ports.  However, I have an old Dell mini tower (which I had planned on getting rid of as well, good thing I hadn't yet) with a serial port; although it doesn't have a functional OS nor will it boot off USB.
     
    So the next question is what software can I use to transfer the files.  Back in the day I might have used Interlnk+Intersrv, but while I can boot DOS 6 from diskette (have a stack of those too), it can't access the hard disk (likely because it doesn't support FAT32).  After some searching I found PD Zmodem which is a DOS program that includes both a ZMODEM client and server and will transfer entire directory trees.  PERFECT!  And FreeDOS includes FAT32 support, so I should be good to go.  Once the files are transferred from the Thinkpad to the Dell I'm fairly certain I will be able to transfer them to the external drive by booting Linux.
     
    Unfortunately FreeDOS doesn't seem to include a simple downloadable boot floppy.  So instead my plan is to download the LiveCD, boot the Dell from that and then create a boot floppy for the Thinkpad.  But this morning I discovered I don't actually have any blank CD-Rs! Hopefully the Dollar Store or Walmart still sells them.
     
    I did was able to pick up a null modem cable at a local computer store (after much searching - and I seem to have bought the last one).  For some strange reason it's a male to female cable ?!?  So then I had to remember whether the serial port on a computer is male or female so I could also pick up an adapter.  (It's a male port on the computer so I needed a female to female adapter.)
  11. EricBall

    Vertical MAME pt 7

    By EricBall,


    MAME
    In the words of Sinstar, "Beware, I live"
     

     
    As I mentioned in the previous post, I started over with lr-mame2000 (MAME 0.37b5 as a Libretro core) on RetroPie 4.7.1 (current).  While mame4all-pi is supposed to be faster, it doesn't do me any good if it doesn't support rotation.  It also became obvious that mame4all-pi is basically an unsupported hack.
     
    Once I started over I tried the recommended solution of disabling the internal "soundcard" without success, likely due to the same problem of the USB headset being "card 1" rather than "card 0".  I then re-enabled the internal soundcard and instead configured the system so the USB headset was "card 0" - and it worked!
     
    So this morning I made a stand out of a cardboard box (~20 degree tilt) and tweaked the libretro config to rotate and fill the screen at native resolution (along with rotating Emulationstation).
     
    So now the task is to go through ~450 games to see what's playable and what's worth playing.  After that I can focus on setting up the front end.
  12. EricBall

    New PC - upgrade, part 5

    By EricBall,


    Programming
    The Corsair XD5 reservoir + pump includes a temperature sensor which screws into one of the inlet ports.  As my motherboard doesn't have a header I could plug it into and I wasn't interested in spending ~$100 on a Corsair Commander. So I just left it (along with the RGB connector) disconnected.
     
    However, there are advantages to measuring the temperature of the water rather than components.  One of the benefits of water cooling is the water has a very high thermal mass.  This means the water takes a long while to heat up and will tend to even out any temperature spikes.  So while the CPU & GPU temperature sensors can be used to control the fans, it would be preferable to use the water temperature.  (So the fans only spin faster when the water gets hot.)
     
    Plus the software I'm using for controlling the fans (Rem0o's Fan Control) can be extended via plug-ins to work with sensors etc it doesn't support natively.  So to use the temperature sensor I just need to come up with a way to read it and feed that info into Fan Control via a plug-in.
     
    The first step was to find out what this temperature sensor is.  Turns out it's a common NTC thermistor - which is an electrical component which decreases in resistance as it gets hotter.  (NTC is short for "negative temperature coefficient")  So to read it I need to measure it's resistance and then run that number through a formula to get the temperature.  Sounds like a job for a Raspberry Pi Pico!  (Side note: I find the RPi Pico & Zero to be amazingly amazing (in the words of Zaphod Beeblebrox) in comparison to what was available before the turn of the century.)
     
    As this entry is already reaching TLDR levels, let me summarize the story in point form:
    My original plan included a temperature display using 7 segment LEDs, but I didn't do this because I didn't buy enough resistors (d'oh!).  In addition, the LEDs were common anode (common Vcc) rather than common cathode (common ground) - which would have made them easier to connect directly to the Pico. I also was going to make a micro-USB to header connector but I found the pads on the micro-USB to be too small to solder to.  I ended up using a normal USB cable and ordering USB ports to headers from Ali Express. There are multiple sources showing using the ADC on a Pico to measure resistance (via a simple voltage divider).  However, when I tested (using known resistances) the values provided by the ADC didn't match the expected values.  I suspect this is because the ADC input resistance isn't significantly higher than the 10k nominal resistance of the thermistor.  In any case, I ended up using a best-fit curve to obtain a "close enough" resistance from the ADC value.  (I was already using an "average" value for the main parameter in the resistance to temperature formula as well, so what was one more approximation?) ** The MicroPython code on the Pico prints the water temperature (and the "air" temperature, measured via the Pico's onboard temperature sensor) to USB serial.  The idea was this would make my Fan Control plug-in more generic if someone wanted to use it with a different microcontroller. Creating the plug-in wasn't difficult, although I had to learn enough C# to handle the serial and thread libraries.  The biggest difficulty was getting the serial interface working.  It turned out the USB Serial interface on the Pico needed DTE to be asserted in order to send data to the PC - something which wasn't included in any of the sample code (but was done by the MicroPython IDE and PuTTY automatically - so they worked but my coded failed).  I finally figured it out using some "serial sniffer" software. Once I had the code working, I cleaned it up, added the BSD license & in-line docs and posted it to /r/watercooling and the LTT forum (where Rem0o hangs out) and got very little feedback.  GRUMP!!!  
    ** When I drain the system to replace the coolant I plan on finding the ADC values at various temperatures then using that information to obtain a best-fit curve to obtain a much more accurate temperature reading from the ADC values.  Maybe I'll add the LED display at the same time...
  13. EricBall

    PS3 as ATSC PVR?

    By EricBall,

    Of course, now that I've ordered a new computer the "dead" one stops crashing and actually transcodes overnight. So now I have a spare computer to find a use for.
     
    I have two SD TiVos - a dual tuner connected to the HDTV for analog and digital cable, and an old Sony S1 in the bedroom for analog cable. I also have an antenna connected to the HDTV for getting OTA (over the air) channels in HD. I'd love to add an HD TiVo but I can't quite justify it for recording network television; and I can't justify the rental cost of a cableco HD PVR when I get HD OTA for free. But would it be possible to use my old computer as a cheaper solution?
     
    An ATSC PVR does two things - first it stores the bitstream to disk and second it decodes that bitstream for display. The first step just requires the right hardware and a large hard disk. The second step is CPU or GPU intensive. So my old computer should be able to handle the first step without any problems, I just need to buy the ATSC capture hardware; but the second step is quite beyond the capabilities of the system. However, if the display were handled by another system, like my PS3 which is already attached to the HDTV, then I'd be laughing. (The old system is also noisy, so I don't want it next to the HDTV anyway.
     
    That brings in two more challenges - first is getting the video to the PS3 so it can display it and second is getting the video in a format the PS3 will display. The PS3 can function as a DLNA client, displaying video streamed by a DLNA server. There are several DLNA server applications for PCs, including PS3 Media Server which will automatically transcode video into a format the PS3 can use. Unfortunately, transcoding is even more CPU intensive than simply decoding. So unless the PS3 can display something very close to ATSC this idea still won't work.
     
    Fortunately, (based upon a simple test) it looks like it can. One problem is the PS3 Media Server interface is dang ugly - it's a very simple folder tree structure. So then the question is whether I can find some free software which will behave as a kind of minimalist PVR (ideally controllable via a web interface).
  14. EricBall
    It's done!
    https://youtu.be/2AIxvOHdLRQ
     
    Fortunately the leaks were all due to the fittings not being tightly seated.  Unfortunately, to fix this I had to undo & redo the compression fittings on each connection.  I also learned that draining the system isn't simply a matter of breaking the loop at the lowest point - water doesn't siphon out of the whole loop.  So every time I disconnected a tube I'd get (distilled) water flowing out.  If / when I want / need to drain the loop I'm going to do it in the bathtub and try to do it with the case upside down!
     
    After the overnight leak test finished I then needed to drain out some of the water so I could add some coolant (which has biocide and anti-corrosion additives).  But I didn't get the connections to the bottom radiator (which I had disconnected to drain the distilled water) tight, so I had to redo those again (but I think I did it better).
     
    On the plus side, the fan noise (even at full power) is much lower (both in volume and pitch) than before.  So I will call that a big win.  I did some stress testing this morning and the CPU topped out at 60C with the fans at 60%.  I need to do some more testing, but I have a sneaking suspicion I'm hitting a thermal clock limiter as the temperature doesn't change much even if I put the fans to 100%.  This might be because I didn't apply the thermal paste correctly so there's air pockets.  And to fix it I'd need to drain the loop completely so I can remove the motherboard.  Ugh!  OTOH, there doesn't seem to be any risk of a meltdown.
  15. EricBall
    What was I thinking?  I just hope the end result justifies the money, time & effort I'm spending.
     
    Last week the first order of parts arrived with the radiators and fittings.  As suggested on /r/Watercooling, I bought a cheap (C$20) fountain pump and used it to run distilled water through the radiators and a coffee filter.  The idea is to flush any particles or other manufacturing residue out so it doesn't clog the water blocks and pump.  I don't know where other people are buying their radiators as I only flushed out one bit of grit.
     
    Monday the second order of parts arrived with the rest of the parts.  The first thing I did was make a backup of the computer.  Shouldn't be required, but I've learned long ago not to taunt Murphy.  If I didn't make a backup I'd probably regret not taking the time.  So I didn't get started on the actual build until mid-evening.  Shouldn't be too hard right?  Mount everything in the computer, cut tubing to length and set it all up for an overnight leak test....
     
    Instead I only got the CPU waterblock and the pump+reservoir mounted.  For the CPU waterblock I first had to remove the stock cooler and clean off the old thermal paste - and the easiest way to accomplish that was to remove the motherboard from the case.  Not a big problem, just some extra steps & time.  But when I tried to mount the pump I kept encountering challenges.  First I needed to remove the front fan in order to attach the mounting bracket.  But when I went to re-attach the fan I discovered the fan frame spider hit the screws for the mounting bracket - no matter where I tried to place the bracket.  Fortunately, the 140mm (instead of 120mm) bracket didn't have the same problem.
     
    Tuesday I discovered the 240mm radiator didn't fit into the bottom of the case as it was just barely wider than the space between the flanges.  However it did fit (barely) into the bottom opening of the case - so maybe I could just put in some spacers.  Then I realized the flanges fit perfectly into the curved edges - but then I couldn't put the bottom on.  Turns out the radiator was bumping into a spare hard drive carrier - out that came and I could get the bottom on with the rad attached.  But it's a little tight down there - not much room for any excess power cable management.  And there's no space to put in the drain valve; heck, just getting the tubing to the radiator ports is going to be tricky.
     
    But then the real challenge started - tubing.  OMG!  I'm glad I went with soft tubing as there's no way I would have been able to bend hard tubing for all of the connections.  Even with soft tubing it's a lot of fit, trim, re-fit to get the right lengths.  Ans I don't know whether it's just the type of tubing & fittings I've bought, but I feel like I'm going to get blisters from the knurled fittings.  I'm also glad I bought five 90 fittings as I had to use four of them to make S-bends for the bottom radiator ports.  (And while not ideal, I can use those to drain the system as they are easier to undo than the compression fittings.)
     
    But after two more nights of work, on Wednesday I was ready to do the leak test.  Which failed in multiple places before the system was even fully filled.  I'm glad I used distilled water rather than coolant as it made quite the mess.  So the next step is to undo and redo all of the compression fittings and make sure all of the plugs are tight.  But that's for another night - after I get some gloves and maybe a miniature pipe wrench.
     
  16. EricBall
    My EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 XC3 Hydro Copper 12GB arrived yesterday - and it looks perfect.  (It's also heavy.)  But unlike a normal air cooled graphics card I can't just drop it into my system.  I need to order a whole bunch of parts first.  Any water cooling loop will have the following:
    Blocks which attach to the CPU or GPU and transfer heat from the CPU or GPU to the coolant.  This is built into the graphics card, but I might as well get one for the CPU too (in for a penny...). Radiators which transfer heat from the coolant to the air.  While thicker radiators or ones with more fins will cool better (while requiring more powerful fans) cooling is mostly dictated by the area of the radiators. Fans to push (and/or pull) air through the radiators.  Ideally you want to use fans which have high static pressure as the radiators have high air resistance. A pump to move the coolant from the blocks to the radiators. A reservoir to hold extra coolant so the pump isn't sucking air.  The reservoir and the pump can be a combo unit. Tubing and fittings to connect everything together.  
    It's possible to buy an All-In-One (aka AIO) unit where the pump is integrated into the CPU block and the tubing between the CPU block and the radiator is permanently connected and pre-filled with coolant.  These are often significantly cheaper than a custom loop, but there's no easy way to adapt an AIO to cool my graphics card.
     
    My original plan was to use a 180mm x 180mm radiator and the existing 200mm case fan.  However, the nice folks on r/watercooling advised against that plan.  The current rule of thumb is to have at least a 120mm fan+radiator per 100 Watts of power/heat.  So while the 180x180 radiator is 2.25 120mm equivalents that's not enough (even without a CPU block) because a 3800 can reach over 300W (!).
     
    What else isn't enough is my 500W power supply.  While this is an additional expense, I suspected the power supply was another source of noise.  So I did some research and settled on the Corsair RM850X, it's supposed to be quiet and 850W should be sufficient.
     
    But given I needed to maximize the radiator area I took the sides off of the case and did some measuring.  Unfortunately I couldn't simply stick two 240x120mm radiators in the top as i have installed the glass panel there (to avoid gravity & feline related issues).  And while the manual shows installing a 240x120mm radiator on each side, they would likely impinge on the motherboard.  Instead I decided to go with a 240x120mm radiator in the bottom of the case (where there is a fan grill), and three 120x120mm radiators - one in the rear and one on each side but towards the front so the motherboard isn't in the way.  The 120 rads are crossflow so the tubing basically makes a loop around the inside of the case and doesn't cross in front of the fans.
     
    As I am Canada, my choice of retailers is fairly limited.  Dazmode is the main retailer for watercooling gear in Canada.  Fortunately they have a good selection and the house brand items are competitively priced, although a lot of the "name" stuff is pricy.  But I ended up ordering the following (Canadian dollars, tax & shipping included):
     
    C$ 76.53 240x120mm radiator
    C$133.62 3 120x120mm cross-flow radiators
    C$ 27.36 8' EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 3/8"-5/8" tubing (the cool kids use hard tubes, but I'm about function not looks)
    C$111.20 15 compression fittings these connect the tubes to the G 1/4 inlets on each component, 2 for each component plus one for a drain tube
    C$ 45.47 5 90 adapters, I plan on using these to handle any connections which require a tight turn
    C$ 38.88 T fitting & drain valve - you should replace the coolant once a year, having a drain valve makes it easier
    C$101.68 HEATKILLER IV BASIC CPU BLOCK with a clear acrylic top so I can see the coolant
    C$ 20.57 Arctic Clean Kit & Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Thermal Paste
    C$233.17 Corsair XD5 Pump + Reservoir Combo
    C$ 69.94 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST 120mm fans
    C$ 26.80 1L Corsair XL8 coolant
    C$203.39 Corsair RM850X power supply
     
    Parts Total: C$1,084.61
    Graphics Card: C$1,490.00
    Grand Total: C$2,574.61
     
    All I can say is I really hope this makes my PC quiet as the upgrade (and I'm not even upgrading the CPU, that would be another C$400-500) is costing as much as the PC!
  17. EricBall
    For the most part I've been very happy with the PC I bought two years ago.  From a performance perspective it's handled everything I've used it for and it's definitely faster than the iMac which I was using previously.  Sure, I could have spent more and made it even faster, but my plan was bang for the buck.  I am also very glad I bought it when I did - if I'd waited much longer the epidemic & ethereum related supply difficulties would have made it more difficult and expensive.
     
    However, when playing games it gets noisy with the fans at full power - audible even when wearing headphones (and aggravating my tinnitus).  I had gotten used to the quiet of the iMac (and the Dell I had before that) and I'd forgotten how loud a PC could be.  Unfortunately the main culprit is the GPU.  If it was the CPU I could easily buy a replacement cooler (the stock one actually isn't too bad - not quiet, but not annoyingly loud), but that isn't an option for GPUs.  Pre-COVID I might have been able to shop around for a replacement GPU and try to find a quieter model - although GPUs tend to be noisy as they are limited in how much space they can take.
     
    The real solution would be to use water cooling.  (Liquid cooling is more accurate as the coolant doesn't have to be water.)  For decades water cooling has been the best way to make a computer quieter or for high end overclocking (which generates a lot of heat).  The advantage of water cooling is the ability to use much larger radiators and lower speed (therefore quieter) fans.  The downside is the additional cost for the specialized parts.
     
    Unfortunately, simply replacing the heatsink & fans on my graphics card was basically not an option.  First, I would risk potentially damaging the card if I tried to remove the existing heatsink.  Second, while "universal GPU water coolers" exist they don't cool the RAM and other components which can get just as hot.  And while whole card coolers exist, they tend to be for the most expensive graphics cards based on the reference design.  (And even then, you have to be careful of potential compatibility issues.)  What I really wanted was a graphics card which came from the manufacturer as a water cooled version.  EVGA makes this kind of card (but only the top models), but due to the crypto currency induced demand these cards simply aren't readily available.
     
    But then I started to see YouTubers talk about how street prices of graphics cards were coming down and supply was returning.  So I had a look at eBay to see whether anything was available - and at what price.  Much to my surprise one was being sold by someone in Canada and the current bid was only C$1000.  So I put a watch on it, asked the guy why he was selling (he got it as part of an influencer promotion but never used it) and then thought about how much I was willing to pay for it.  I talked myself down from C$2000 to C$1500 - the whole computer (w/o monitor) cost less than $1400 - and while it would be a significant upgrade from the 1650 Super, the objective was to make the computer quiet.
     
    The end of the auction was Friday afternoon, just before 4:30 PM local time.  Over the week I checked the current bid once a day and each day the bid got a little higher.  Once it hit C$1425 I figured I'd already lost - the high bidder almost certainly had put in a max bid of at least C$1500 (and I wasn't going to spend more than that), so even if I bid C$1500 they'd win the auction.  But when Friday afternoon came and I logged off from work I decided to check one last time and saw the high bid was still $1425 and there was less than a minute left in the auction.  So I entered my bid as quickly as I could - confirming it with bare seconds to spare.  Much to my surprise - I won the auction with a final price of C$1450 - a single bid increment over the highest bid.
     
    I should receive the card next week.  Assuming everything is in order the next step is to order the rest of the parts.
  18. EricBall

    game idea

    By EricBall,

    I've been playing Escape From Tarkov for the last month.  It's an interesting twist on the online PvP FPS with a money based risk / reward system.  If your main character is killed then any equipment you were using (with a few exceptions) is lost and you must spend in-game money to replace it before playing again.  Or you can play as a "Scav" which spawns later in the raid with random equipment.  In raid you can also find randomized loot in various locations or take equipment & loot from dead PMCs and Scavs (which may be player or computer controlled).  You can then exit the map via pre-determined locations on the map.
     
    So while there's a focus on looting and getting kills similar to a typical battle royale style game, the focus isn't on being the last player standing but rather on surviving.  There's also the ability to sell items found in raid to "traders" or to & from other players via a "flea market".  In addition, there are tasks and quests which allow you to buy more powerful equipment from the traders and other ways of generating income outside of the raids.
     
    What this means is players who are able to put more time into the game end up with an advantage to other players as they have access to better equipment in addition to the game skills they develop by playing the game for endless hours.  So it's not quite "play to win", but there's a definite advantages which makes it very hard on new players.  (And Tarkov can be a very brutal game for new players anyway - death comes quickly as headshots are typically one-hit kills.)
     
    But I had an idea - what if the game instead made it harder for more experienced players?  So when you start you have access to the best equipment but as your in-game character levels up that equipment becomes more expensive or even unavailable?  Imagine if the best players aren't the ones running around with impenetrable armor and instant death guns but have the weakest armor and pistols so must instead use all of the game skills they have accumulated.
  19. EricBall
    In my life I've undertaken many personal projects and there are a few I would qualify as failures.  After working on my latest MAME cabinet project I realized I had learned some important lessons from those projects.  In the hope that maybe others can learn from my mistakes...
     
    Decades ago I had an idea for a circuit which would remove Macrovision copy protection from an analog video signal.  IIRC it was based around a sync separator and I was positive it would work.  So I ordered the parts from Mouser, wired everything up on perfboard, connected to my DVD player and... nothing.  It was at that point that I realized I did not have the equipment necessary (e.g. a digital storage oscilloscope) to determine why it was failing.
     
    The lesson was to plan for failure and before starting the project make sure you have the tools necessary to debug any issues.  (In particular any hardware project.)
     
    For example, I considered trying to build a portable Wii (Wiiboy).  However, I could easily wind up with the same problem - something doesn't work and I don't have the tools to debug the problem.  (Especially since a big part of the project is to physically cut the Wii PCB, so there's a very real risk of something going wrong.)
  20. EricBall

    Babylon 5 reboot

    By EricBall,

    I watched Babylon 5 when it was first on TV and I have every episode recorded on VHS.  One of these days I'll digitize them so I can enjoy them rather than the "widescreen" versions.  Babylon 5 was great TV - each episode and season told a story which was then part of the story told by the entire series.
     
    But a reboot doesn't compute IMHO.  Part of the reason B5 was great TV was JMS.  He had the vision for the entire series, the backstory, and the ability to change plans when required due to cast, production company and whether there would be a next season.  JMS also had the experience to know how important it is to come in under budget (something which doomed Firefly).
     
    So JMS is being given the green light to do a reboot of B5.  But a big part of B5 was the knowing that each episode was part of the larger whole - even if you couldn't see it yet.  Simply retelling the same story with new actors and better SFX would remove much of the enjoyment as you'd know how the story is going to end before it even started.  But if JMS's plan is to tell a different story, then it's not really Babylon 5.
     
  21. EricBall

    Nintendo Switch successor

    By EricBall,

    An arsTechnica staffer apparently overheard someone saying, "I'm working on the thing after the Switch." and wrote a whole article about it (which I read, although it's a lot of empty musings).  Of course, it's no surprise that Nintendo would be working on a successor to the Switch.  For home consoles they have a pretty regular 5-6 year cycle.  The Switch was released back in 2017 (how time flies) so I'd expect a successor in the next 18 months.!?
     
    But it got me to thinking - if I were coming up with a successor to the Switch, what would I build?  Nintendo has sold over 73 million Switch but also almost 16 million Switch Lite.  To me that says there's a real demand for a portable system, so I'd stick with the same form factor as the Switch Lite.  But have a dock just like the Switch which would allow the system to be connected to a TV.  In addition, single player offline long-form games are one place where the traditional sale model (versus the "free to play" model) work; and theses games also lend themselves to portable play.
     
    This also means Nintendo wouldn't be directly competing with Sony & Microsoft as the system would be advertised as a portable system you can connect to your TV versus a home console which is also portable.  However, the successor to the Switch will be somewhat competing with the Steam Deck.
     
    One big question is whether the successor to the Switch will be backwards compatible with the Switch.  Nintendo has a history of maintaining backwards compatibility to the previous generation with three exceptions: the Super NES, the GameCube (N64 was cartridge based and Nintendo finally made the transition to disc based media), and the Switch (single screen vs Wii U / 3DS).  So I think there is very good chance the successor will be backwards compatible.  However, this also means Nintendo is somewhat tied to NVidia (versus AMD).  On the plus side, Nvidia already has successors to the Tegra X1 used in the Switch.  The most modern one which is currently being manufactured is the Xavier - which looks like a decent upgrade from the X1 - double the number of CPU cores and GPU units and both running at double the clock speed - which would make it about 4 times as powerful.
     
    So if I were Nintendo, here's what I would do for the "Super Switch"
    - NVidia Tegra Xavier based, with Switch compatibility
    - same physical design as the Switch Lite
    - same OLED screen as the new Switch (for better visibility outdoors)
    - dockable (via USB-C, also used for charging), which adds HDMI, LAN & USB ports
    - compatible with Switch, Wii, and other Bluetooth and USB controllers
     
    Note: I'd stick with the same 1280x720 resolution for the built-in display with 1920x1080p60 for the HDMI output rather than 4K.  Why? Because Nintendo understands gameplay trumps graphics.  If the Super Switch had a 1920x1080 display and output 4K UHDTV that would use up much of the performance improvement of Xavier over X1.
    Note 2: It will be important for Nintendo to provide a "system seller" on launch & encourage second & third party developers to create games which take advantage of the Super Switch.  Both the DSi and New 3DS had a very small number of exclusive titles.
    Note 3: Yes, I know many of these ideas are the same as the "Switch Pro" rumors - however I actually wasn't aware of them before I did this, so I might actually be more right than I thought.
     
  22. EricBall
    After 135 hours of playing Breath of the Wild I have defeated Ganon and finished (but not completed*) the game.  It was a lot of fun, but I'm not planning on replaying it in the near future and I certainly have no desire to buy the DLC and play through a modified version of the game.  
     
    One of the parts of BOTW I loved is Zelda's story revealed through the memories and her and her Father's diaries.  Unlike the Champions who chose to be warriors and then accepted the role of Champion, Zelda is instead told that she has a destiny she must fulfill - except everything she tries denies instead of confirming that destiny.  It's only after Ganon defeats the Champions and Link that she her power reveals itself.  It's a tragic tale - but one with ultimately with a happy ending.
     
    * I haven't completed every quest, found & completed every shrine, found all 900 Koroks, or the many other tasks which would be necessary for me to claim I've completed the game.
  23. EricBall

    Breath of the Wild

    By EricBall,

    Earlier this summer I heard an orchestral medley of Zelda themes and it reminded me that I hadn't bought Breath of the Wild.  When it first came out I didn't have a Switch and couldn't justify buying one just to play Zelda.  However, my son got one a few years back for Christmas so now I just needed to spend the $$ to get the game.  So I picked it up and I've been playing it since July 1st.  I haven't finished it yet, I still need to grind a while to get Ancient Armor and upgrade it before taking on the castle and Ganon (although I suspect this isn't required).
     
    I can understand why many people love this game.  However, it's not without its flaws.
     
    One of the big complaints from many players is weapon durability.  I will admit in the early game there's a significant risk to having your only weapon break mid-way through a battle.  But later in the game it's more of an annoyance. 
     
    My bigger issue is not being able to keep all of the weapons I want to.  I'd like to be able to store weapons I'm not planning on using but might want to use later.  Right now I've got a lot of elemental weapons filling up my inventory.  They're cool to use and great in certain situations (e.g. fire weapons vs ice monsters).  However, their durability isn't great and they have limited world spawns.  So they sit in my inventory.  Maybe I should just embrace the temporary and use them (and figure out how to use the elemental rods effectively).
     
    Related to weapon durability is the blood moon.  I think the design decision behind the blood moon was to ensure players had a way to accumulate weapons and materials in the late game.  I'm kinda doing this now as I need to kill Guardians to obtain 90 ancient gears to buy and then upgrade Ancient Armor.  However, the blood moon takes away my incentive to try to clear out the various monster encampments.  In fact, during the early game it's often better to avoid conflict to preserve weapon durability & arrows.
     
    The game sometimes takes "let the player figure it out" too far IMHO.  Would it have been so bad for the old man to tell Link to avoid the disabled Guardians?  "You've seen the Guardian carcasses?  Well some aren't completely inactive, it's best to run away if you find one - you won't be able to damage it."  OTOH one advantage of picking up this game years after release is other players have done the investigation and datamining to figure out almost everything about the game.  So this means I don't have to stumble around trying to figure out the cooking mechanic, what weapons are the most durable, or where a particular memory is located.
     
    But back to the grinding.  Grinding is almost unavoidable in an open-world game and BOTW is no different.  For completists finding all 120 shrines, all of the Koroks, all of the treasure chest, and obtaining & upgrading all of the armor can be quite the grind.  In BOTW upgraded armor provides bonuses in addition to simple damage protection.  So having armor which makes you unfreezable, unshockable or immune to fire can be a great benefit.  And for those upgrades the required items aren't difficult to obtain. 
     
    However this isn't the case for Ancient Armor, which provides additional defence against Guardians (which are one of the strongest enemies) and when upgraded provides a bonus when using ancient weapons (which are particularly effective against Guardians).  So if you're going to be taking on Guardians you're going to want to have upgraded Ancient Armor.  But to obtain and upgrade Ancient Armor you need ancient materials (ancient gears in particular - 60 to obtain, 30 to upgrade) and you need to defeat Guardians to obtain ancient materials.  (Yes, it is possible to loot dead Guardians to get ancient materials, but not enough to obtain 60 ancient gears.)  So you need to attack & defeat Guardians without Ancient Armor in order to get Ancient Armor to make it easier to defeat Guardians.  Ugh!
     
    None the less, I'm really enjoying the game.  OTOH I don't think I'm enjoying it enough to buy the DLC.
  24. EricBall
    A few weeks ago a YouTube video about the G-Boy kit caught my interest.  This isn't a portable cobbled together from old smartphone components, but an actual Wii PCB, cut down to remove unnecessary components & to make in smaller, then wired up to custom PCB to provide battery power, controls, LCD interface and replace the DVD drive with an SD card, and finally put in a custom case with the LCD etc.  Of course, many Wii titles would be problematic without the Wii remote, but the Wii can play GameCube games natively not to mention emulators and other homebrew.
     
    However, this is definitely not an easy project and the more I thought about it the more negatives I saw.  First the actual build would require several tools I don't have, increasing the cost.  New tools also means new skills, which increases the risk of failure.  The possibility of catastrophic failure (or at least failure beyond my ability to troubleshoot & repair) is also very high.  So there's a high risk of failure and the end result, while cool, doesn't provide me with anything I don't have already except for portability.  Finally, the hobbyists who created the kit didn't seem to be selling them anymore, so I'd need to do a lot more DIY as well.
     
    But it got me to thinking.  What I kinda / sorta want is something like a GBA with a big screen which could emulate GB/GBC/GBA/NES/SNES and other classic 8 & 16 bit consoles.  I knew these devices existed, but I needed to do some research to see which ones would satisfy my requirements and how much they would cost.  Fortunately there's some YouTube channels which focus on these devices and do a great job comparing them.  The challenge is there are new devices being offered all the time so what was top of the heap a few months ago may now be an also ran (or now that more people have them, the flaws have been discovered).  However, for me there is a clear winner - the
    PowKiddy RGB10 Max.
     
    One of the big advantages it has over similar devices is the 5 inch screen.  While the 16:9 aspect ratio isn't required for classic consoles, it's the same as a 4 inch 4:3 screen (or a 4.4 inch 3:2 screen) - which is still larger than the majority of other devices.  The processor seems to be powerful enough for my requirements and the reviews are fairly positive about the controls.  The two negatives are the single off-center speaker and the screen not being particularly bright.  It also seems like the internals and software were cloned from the Odroid Go Super (but given the purpose of the device is to play copied games I'm not going to feel guilty).  And it's only C$150 shipped from China.
     
    However, while I want it and can afford it . . . I'm having trouble justifying it.  
    I have multiple other options to run emulators on devices I already own.  (I just need to take the time & effort to get everything installed & configured.)  So I don't need it to play the games. While portability is nice, I don't actually regularly need something portable in order to play games (e.g. commuting by public transit).  Plus I already have several portable devices which I could play games with. Finally, my main constraint is free time, not ways to spend that free time.
  25. EricBall
    The base software install and configuration has been completed!  Now I just need to build the final cabinet (current roadblock is persuading my son to work on the control panel artwork).  For those who might be interested, here is the "top 40 classic vertical arcade games" which are playable:
     
     
    I'm hoping I will be able to track the number of plays for each game.  I suspect there will be few which get played a lot and a few which aren't played.
     
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