c0nsumer

Eagle is a pretty good product for basic use. It's got a steep learning curve, but then again what professional tool doesn't?

Don't hold your breath. I'm still identifying parts and stuff. I announced the SDrive NUXX when it was much further along than this, and I'm much busier with day-job stuff now, unfortunately. The SIO2SD's original fuse recommendation didn't include brown-out detection. If the power dipped a bit low, the flash on the chip (I believe) could become corrupt and it'd have to be reflashed in order to work again. Simply turning on brown-out detection stepped around this. For the SDrive and SDrive NUXX BOD is enabled, so it's not a concern. This isn't something that one would usually have a problem with, but it could happen.

It'll also let me use higher power displays. I figure that since optocoupling is only another chip or so, why not? Then there won't be any concern with ground loops or anything like that either.

Hmm. Well, that settles it then. The SIO2SD NUXX (or whatever it gets called) will get its own power supply, and I'll likely optically couple it to the SIO bus, just for added isolation.

Is there a book/article that explains which capacitors die out on the 1050 drive? I never replaced any and my drives seem to be working fine whereas I have read articles that electrolytic capacitors have a life-span of about 3 years (which sounds like rubbish). My disk drives are like 25 years old. Also, there's the capacitors that slow down POKEY transfer rate on XE machines-- perhaps someone wrote some article on speeding things up there. As done by our own c0nsumer: http://nuxx.net/wiki/Atari_800XL_Disk_Archiving#Atari_1050 Oh, hi there. I replaced all of them, since it was easier to do that then figure out which were bad, and which were about to fail. Frustratingly mine failed SHORTED, which meant that supplying power kept the LED from illuminating and quickly lead to a hot-parts smell. Good thing I didn't leave it on for long.

Thank you. And per this copy the 12V line (pin 12) is "...of unknown current rating...". I think external is the only way to go in this case. (I didn't expect this to be in an OS manual because this is hardware, not the OS...)

Can someone point me to any docs detailing the maximum current draw peripherials should put on the 5V rail on an SIO bus? I'm working on an SIO2SD enhancement and I'm trying to decide if it should be bus powered or have an external supply. (The external supply would allow for easy optoisolation, backlit LCDs, possibly VFDs, etc.)

Honestly, I don't think so. I want another project, and I think the SIO2SD could benefit from getting some polish and the community could benefit from an open source design. With markedly reduced enclosure costs I can see this being a lot cheaper than the SDrive NUXX as well. Sure, the LCD will add some cost, but cheap ones aren't very much at all. I think this will appeal to people who just happen to want an LCD. It'll also give me something new to work on.

It's next on my list, and Jakub, the SIO2SD guy, has given it his blessing, so any work will be done with permission. (I don't like just appropriating others projects...) Now I just need to find time to start the work. After things calm down with my real job I'll probably get going on this next. Current thoughts are footprints for SIO connectors (normal and DB15 workalikes) so it can be part of a chain of devices, ability to hang a cable off of it via pin headers or direct wiring, cable strain relief. Some nice button layout, hopefully some good artwork. Probably black PCBs again. SD card using the same connector as on the SDrive NUXX (it's relatively easy to solder), support for a few different physical styles of LCD. Erm... Stuff like that.

I'd like to see a small case for the AtariMax SIO2USB unit. Enclosures for existing devices are pretty much off my list; sorry. The problem with this is that most devices were not designed to fit well in an enclosure, and getting something custom made up would be prohibitively expensive. I'll probably redo something but design it to fit better in a case, be more usable, etc. Any sort of custom molding for said case is right out too, as the tooling for that would be beyond what I could afford up front, and would be VERY difficult to recoup.

Absolutely all of the SDrive NUXX parts are gone. I've only got my one that I built for myself and the proto v1.0 PCB left. With regards to next projects I'm starting to think about a really nice SIO2SD (SIO2SD.NUXX working name). This would be easy to assemble and include a top panel also made out of PCB material. This provides most of the same function as an enclosure but at a MUCH lower cost. Take a look at this oscilloscope from SparkFun for an example of how this sort of top panel is done. I intend to have it support a number of different LCD pin layouts, a smarter/nicer button layout, potential for either pin header, cable (with SIO connector on the end), SIO connector(s), and stuff like that. As said I'm just starting to think about it, but this could be a nice next project.

Heh. And here I am in SE Michigan, not far from Ohio at all... It's only an hour or so away, but that puts me in Toledo, and I don't think anyone wants to be there.

Superb! Philsan, thank you. Where could i get one of these, with case? Just in case i don't have my SIO2SD back to life. Search for Atari Age user c0nsumer, he made a load, not sure if he has any complete ones left, but I think he has some kits left http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/138608-sdrive-nuxx/page__view__findpost__p__1920257 Just FYI, I've actually got three PCBs left, and two of them are being built up today. No kits left, and almost out overall. That said, reflashing the SIO2SD is probably pretty easy. If you can't get it done, I imagine there is someone near you who can. I remember reading some things about the brown-out detection not being set on its AVR resulting in it occasionally self destructing. Because of this I made sure to set BODEN when programming the SDrive NUXX chips. It seems to be working right thus far.

The enclosure is fairly easy when you have control of the PCB design. Unfortunately, for something like the SIO2SD it'd take some custom molding and stuff. Or a PCB redesign, and we've obviously just been through that.

When the problem happens with other devices, is the SIO2PC connected? If so, be sure it's physically disconnected from the PC. I've seen really weird things happen with ground loops created between older electronics and PCs. If the PC is a laptop, try running it off of just battery, not connected to anything else, and see if the problem occurs. If it does not have problems this way, a ground loop is probably your issue.

It's really strange how people with technical interests tend to gravitate to similar things. Or, really useful? Also, your email has been replied to.

On behalf of the community once again, thank you for putting together such a professionally meticulous and aesthetically pleasing turnkey solution for us. You're very welcome. I love projects like this, but now I'm a bit stuck because I need to come up with another. It's winter here and spending more and more time indoors makes projects necessary.

After a surprising number of recent sales this is all the SDrive NUXX PCBs and end panels left; four sets. So if you want one, you may want to order soon. I also happen to have four preprogrammed ATmega8 AVRs, which Digi-Key and Mouser seem to be out of stock on. Once these are gone I will no longer be making SDrive NUXX parts available. As before these are for sale either as PCB/panel sets ($35), PCB/panel sets with preprogrammed AVR ($40), and assembled ($150). I only have two sets of nuts/screws left for the SIO connectors, so the last two panels sold won't come with them. This shouldn't be a problem, though, as any standard small nut/screw (from your local hardware store) can be used to physically secure the SIO connector. If you are interested in these please either PM me or email me directly at [email protected] Because there's so few left I'm no longer taking orders online, as I don't want to take orders for more parts than I have. Thanks again, everyone. This has been a great project.

Also, Mouser part number 895-UC232R-10 is an FTDI-branded FT232 cable, generally intended for dev work but available for whatever. It's $18.50 with Mouser's typically cheap shipping. Digi-Key probably has other versions as well.

You can get USB to serial adapters that work pretty well for not very much money. Just do yourself a favor and get one based on FTDI chips, not Prolific chips. While their drivers have gotten better lately, I've personally had loads of problems with Prolific's stuff. FTDI's stuff has consistantly been rock solid for me.

CTRL+W (write config to disk, SDRIVE.ATR) L (enable long filename display) Y (accept changes and save to disk) Note that after doing this if you wish to boot without the saved config you can boot the SDRIVE.ATR while holding down SHIFT, then one of the menu options (I forget which right now) will load the control program without using the saved config. Also note that via a saved config such as this one can auto-mount disk images, turn on automatic booting of one of those, etc. I use a config file like this as part of testing assembled SDrive NUXXs so I can get the needed DOS and such.

I don't have a library to offer, but here's an SIO connector footprint that I designed for and used on the SDrive NUXX: atari_sio_part_for_cadsoft_eagle.zip Some more info on it can be found here, and photos of it on a PCB here. Let me know if it doesn't work out for you. License info is here. Also, "corrupt" libraries that don't open are often ones that are made with pirated EAGLE licenses. EAGLE embeds its license info in every file it saves, and CadSoft regularly finds compromised/cracked licenses and locks them out in future releases. This version won't have that problem, as it's made with a full commercial license of EAGLE Standard.

If anyone is interested, I have one more assembled SDrive NUXX for sale. Someone specially requested that I build one for them, so I also built a second to offer here on the board. The price is US$150 shipped to the US, plus an additional US$7 for international shipping if needed. Per usual shipping is via USPS Priority Mail, and as it's all built and boxed up it'll ship right away. I can accept payment via Google Checkout, PayPal, or most any other decent payment systems. PM me if you're interested. Thanks!

Excellent, I'm really glad to hear that. If the lights do what they are supposed to, it should all be set. Enjoy! -Steve

Be very careful around any electromechanical parts that aren't sealed, like the dip switches and tactile switches. I'd also remove the AVR because it's sensitive enough that you could damage it. Otherwise, it should be fine to clean. Just be careful and make sure it's all dry (including under/in the SD slot) before you power it up. For what it's worth, I solder everything not-static-or-water-sensitive on to boards, then wash off the water soluble flux with hot water and a tooth brush. The boards are then dried with a mixture of hot and compressed air. Then the remaining parts are fitted or soldered in place with no-clean flux, and everything is done.