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Posts posted by Madaracs
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Doesn't the Coleco FAQ have the entire listing of commercial games you're looking for?
I'm gonna say... I don't know? Can you just tell me the name of the movie you'd like to see?
I found a ColecoVision FAQ... appears to be a downloadable file requiring office? Is there a link here? COLOR ME NEWB.

Google is your friend. Just try "Coleco FAQ" as keywords. Version 3.12 of the text file should be complete enough for your needs.

Thanks, man. 'preciate it. This is awesome. (And I'm gonna throw the .txt file on my Ultimate SD cart!)

Sheesh. My noggin' is starting to hurt from all of this knowledge. This is so cool! I've been totally rediscovering so much about this awesome console. I am so glad there is a community to keep this thing going. I have 5 working ColecoVisions right now. One is a special project that I need to finish up!
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Doesn't the Coleco FAQ have the entire listing of commercial games you're looking for?
I'm gonna say... I don't know? Can you just tell me the name of the movie you'd like to see?
I found a ColecoVision FAQ... appears to be a downloadable file requiring office? Is there a link here? COLOR ME NEWB.

Google is your friend. Just try "Coleco FAQ" as keywords. Version 3.12 of the text file should be complete enough for your needs.

Thanks, man. 'preciate it. This is awesome. (And I'm gonna throw the .txt file on my Ultimate SD cart!)

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Doesn't the Coleco FAQ have the entire listing of commercial games you're looking for?
I'm gonna say... I don't know? Can you just tell me the name of the movie you'd like to see?
I found a ColecoVision FAQ... appears to be a downloadable file requiring office? Is there a link here? COLOR ME NEWB.

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I've been looking all over the webby internet thingo for a definitive list of ColecoVision games that excludes Homebrew--namely an official place that lists how many original titles there were and all of the games.
It would be nice to have a list of all of the homebrews as well. (separately) Prototypes? Etc?
Anywhosit, I'm sure it's out there and I've just not searched hard enough but even the wikipedia (maybe I missed it) doesn't seem to list the official number of games released for the unit. They have a list that includes homebrews... but not the number of games total.
There is probably someone here who has that list or has posted it. If you could point me to the right web page or an article here, I'd appreciate you contributing to my laziness.

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I am looking for any and all Retro Gamer Magazines. Please PM me with what you have and your prices. I would like trades if possible.
PM sent.
(This should probably be moved to "wanted" no?)
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Already did.
No plans to make a Pokey version in the near future.
OK. How about offering him a Ballblazer or Commando cart as a POKEY donor or source your own from Best Electronics (@ 10$ + postage)?
Mailed him again... we'll see.

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lol
This topic is funny!Heh. This topic is money.
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I like 7800 Galaga quite a bit, but it's far from arcade perfect. It could use completely redrawn sprites, a POKEY (I'm guessing it doesn't use one), and some fine-tuning would be nice, such as fixing the speed issue. For instance, the second you hit stage 10, everything makes a large jump in speed. In other versions of the game, everything speeds up gradually as you progress as opposed to one huge, sudden jump. Also, once the speed kicks up like this, the game starts chopping up a bit as if the system can't keep up with it. Again, far from perfect.. but pretty good considering it was made in 1984. I still really enjoy it today.
/
I couldn't agree more. It would also be cool to fix the aspect ratio since it was a vertical game in the arcades. The NES/Famicom version does this correctly. One thing neither console will probably ever be able to do is properly scroll the stars in the background.
...An interesting side note that most people don't notice about the Fami/NES version is that the starfield in the background actually mimics certain constellations.
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Got my hands on 2 port 5200 and a copy of pacman without a controller but finally managed to get a supposedly working one from ebay and fired up the 5200. Everything seemed ok until it was time to press start and nothing. Tried for about 15 mins turning on and off and both controller ports and it did start which may have been me pressing the button or just a stroke of luck. The game started and pacman went left on his own and no responce from the joystick, tried pressing resest and pause but nothing. I know the contollers have issues but was wondering if there was anyway to test to see if it`s the console it`s self. A friend has a meter if it`s needed.
You may already be aware of this but the world's worst website is also the world's best resource for NOS Atari parts. The other thing they have that I bought was these repair kits. They are reachable by phone and fairly knowledgeable about everything Atari. I bought the replacement parts for my 5200 controllers and repaired them. They work flawlessly. In the long run this saved me money because I probably would have bought controller after controller on eBay to no avail.
http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/
Hours of operation are Monday through Friday 1:30pm to 5:00pm PST
Telephone: (408) 278-1070
Best Electronics
672 Commercial Street
San Jose, CA 95112-1406
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This may belong in the 7800 Hacks forum, but I thought it deserved a little more visibility, so I'm posting it here. I've always been impressed with Bob's work on Pac-man Collection, with it's excellent game play, but I've haven't been quite satisfied with the sound. I think Bob got everything he could out of the TIA chip, but I kept thinking it could sound better if it used POKEY. So I decided it would be a fun little project to change the sound to work with the POKEY chip.
This is the result. I'm still tinkering with it a little but I'm pretty satisfied with it. I copied the Ms. Pac-man sounds note for note from the 8-bit computer version. The Pac-man sounds are also based on the 8-bit version but I made improvements were I could. Most of the change was to the Introduction and intermission tunes. The music still doesn't have that sound of the arcade machines, which used wavetable sound synthesis, but I think it's pretty good. I might work on it a little more in the future, but for now, I'll use my little free time to just play it.
Bob has actually been helping me out by providing feedback and play testing. Thanks Bob!
I've tested this with the ProSystem Emulator as well as in hardware with a modified Ballblazer cart. Unfortunately, my Ballblazer cart is acting flaky so I've only been able to do limited hardware testing. Hopefully any you with CC2's or other POKEY carts can test it out for me and let me know if you find any bugs. I also welcome any feedback that would help me improve the authenticity of the sounds.Regards,
Perry
Is there a chance this could get released to a cartridge after the 7800 expansion module gets released? Or possibly a chance that it might get released in a cartridge form with a POKEY chip? Or should I just buy the one at the AA Store? Because this would be really cool as a real cart.
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Beef Drop is available from the store. Ask Al if he can make you a POKEY version.
Already did.
No plans to make a Pokey version in the near future. -
Like the title says, heavy sixer with 2 controllers (I believe they're the originals since they have springs in them), original paddles (not pictured), gray power supply, and the box. Everything has been tested and works great. Would like to get $45 for it (does not include shipping)
I will take it!! PM Sent
Crap! That is an awesome deal.
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I can only think of one thing more awesome than playing Galaga on a 120" projector...
Playing on a 135"?

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I know it isn't likely, but if anyone has a Beef Drop with a POKEY chip in it that they want to unload I'd be interested in making a deal.
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I don't have anything that this works with so I am offering it to anyone here who may need it. You just pay the shipping and I'll send it your way.
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So its not possible get Pacman Collection anymore..

No man! You can still get it! Go here: http://www.opcodegames.com/games.php
It's the awesome.
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My stock of Atari 2600 donor carts is running low and I need more donor carts for homebrew games. If you have duplicate, relatively common carts sitting in your collection, please consider sending them my way so I can give them a new life as homebrew games.
I'm looking for Atari text and picture label carts, as well carts produced by Coleco (such as Donkey Kong and Carnival). The Atari silver label carts often have labels that are difficult to remove, and the red label carts have holes under the main label that I try to avoid (the label often depresses over these holes). Any donor carts need to be be free of defects (scratches, nicks in the plastic), be clean and not have any permanent marker on the plastic. The condition of the labels is not important since they will be removed.
I'm offering 50 cents per cart in store credit for Atari carts and 75 cents for Coleco carts as well as the entire cost of shipping. Because of shipping costs, the larger the batch of carts you can send the more worthwhile it is.
Please PM me if you can help out.
Thanks!
..Al
I have this picture in my head of you sitting in front of the TV and peeling labels like off Atari carts like one would peel potatoes before thanksgiving dinner.
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I've got 4 spare doner carts.
Dragster: Label is in fair condition
Solaris: Label in pristine condition
Spider Fighter: Label in Fair condition
Star Voyager (Imagic): Label in excellent condition.
All carts have been tested and FAIL.
If anyone want's them, I'll ship them to them--they're all yours for $5 shipped!




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Here is a shaft from an Adam Controller that I threaded and put the 1" knob on.
I cut the square end into a round end with a .250 diameter then very slowly and carefully cut threads using a 1/4 - 20 die.
The knob is attached really nice.
I will offer a complete rebuild on ( will work like new including both fire buttons and keypad ) a Adam/ColecoVision Controller and the installation of this exact type knob for anyone interested. $20 per controller plus actual cost of return shipping. For an extra $8 I will install a straight cord.
First photo is threaded shaft.
Second photo is threaded shaft with the knob screwed down in place.
For more information, or for do it yourselfers check out this thread.
Just givin' my boouy Yurkie some well deserved props:
I just bought my 3rd and 4th sets of these controllers from Yurkie. I can't believe how -=quickly=- he can take a crappy old sort-of-working ColecoVision controller--disassemble it, clean the housings, straighten the cords and replace the original stick top with a ball knob. He is unbelievably fast on his turnaround and the work is ALWAYS top-notch. I couldn't be more thrilled about this latest set. There is nothing like popping in the Opcode Pac-Man collection cart, flippin' the switch on my modded ColecoVision, watching that big blue light shine like the top of the Chrysler Building and having flawless response from these wicked controllers.
Thanks gain, Y.
w0rd.

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Great price!
Thanks! Looking to move some stuff.
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Bumped to eBay.
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Does anyone else hear the announcer's voice in their head when they read these?
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I have never sold anything on Ebay before, so I don't know any of the tricks. Is there a preferable time of day to have an auction begin or end? A preferable day of the week for an auction to begin or end on? Any other tips that might be helpful?
This seems to work well for me: (Take it with a grain of salt, but I've never been disappointed.)
- Start the auction in the evening if at all possible. For 7 Day auctions it's a good idea to start on a Saturday or Sunday and have them end around 9-10pm CST. In theory, this gives the majority of persons in U.S. time zones ample time to finish the sale when they're not at work. My best results have been 5 or 7 day auctions that end on the weekend. 3 Day auctions have not been really great for me--not enough exposure to the item by the eBay community in that short time.
- Always try to have at least one photo. (I like 3-4)
- Use the feature that's available to show the item as a thumbnail in a search. (In a search shows a small photo)
- Take advantage of the second description line. It draws attention to the auction when people are browsing.
- Don't bother with a bunch of add-ons to sell your item such as a fancy theme, bolded text or other items that will cost you a lot to list the item.
- Use the same listing etiquette as you would posting here: AVOID ALL CAP LISTINGS, be descriptive and clear about the item you're listing.
- When listing an item it's often good to search for the item yourself to see which keywords you want in your listing title.
- Be sure to be clear about your terms. When you expect payment, what will happen if they don't pay. Forms of payment, etc.
- Start all items at $.99 or $1.00. (If it's truly to be an auction) This does two things:
- Encourages bidding. Creates a sense of competition. It might look like you're not getting much initially, but it's been my experience that the last few hours are what really counts.
- Guaranties you a fair market value. (assuming of course you listed your item in a proper category and it was easily found in a search--see above)
[*] As a general rule I never list a reserve. If I expect to get an item for a certain price, I will not run it as an auction and I'll slap it up for what I must have for it bottom line.
[*] I find that having a postage scale is handy. I got one at Office Depot. I like to weigh my items to offer exact shipping. Often times, I will offer a flat, discounted rate for shipping. For instance, I know it will cost me $10.70 to send a Medium Flat-Rate Priority Mail box via USPS to pretty much anywhere in the U.S. In those cases where I know I'll be using that service, I'll drop the shipping to a flat rate and let the bidders make up the difference. Sometimes, if I feel like it I just tack on FREE SHIPPING to encourage the bidders to bid more money. I know that when I'm buying I always take shipping into account before making my final bid.
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Post about it here for a little more exposure![*] Be honest.
- Encourages bidding. Creates a sense of competition. It might look like you're not getting much initially, but it's been my experience that the last few hours are what really counts.
I'm sure I haven't covered it all here and this advice of course depends on the perceived value the item has to you and whether or not you're actually going to list an auction or do a "buy it now." It's all a bit of a scary gamble when you first list. But the bottom line is that if you're as honest as possible and work with your customer, you'll do well.
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- Start the auction in the evening if at all possible. For 7 Day auctions it's a good idea to start on a Saturday or Sunday and have them end around 9-10pm CST. In theory, this gives the majority of persons in U.S. time zones ample time to finish the sale when they're not at work. My best results have been 5 or 7 day auctions that end on the weekend. 3 Day auctions have not been really great for me--not enough exposure to the item by the eBay community in that short time.
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H2
in Atari 7800
I can say with complete confidence that it won't be ready by the end of the month

Well whenever they do get finished, I think you can safely assume that I'm in for one too!

A Present for AtariMax SD Cart Owners from NIAD
in ColecoVision / Adam
Posted
Yeah. Dis is supah sweet. +1!