JingleJoe

Topic title says it all really; Got paddle games? I'll buy them / trade for them I already have Warlords and Super Breakout and I especially want Warplock and Astroblast, I want almost all other paddle games too! So roll up to my Paddle purchasing place and provide your paddle games post haste!

I think it might be a combination of the television and console; Console displays alot of a particular colour - you get speaker hum. Alot of my atari games have a hum in the background but its hardly moticeable so I don't bother doing anything about it

That is brilliant! Thankyou Now, back on to the topic of paddle games

Dharma initiative brand paddles, for your Dharma 2600. Who's up for a game of Press the Button Every 108 Minutes!?

Oh thankyou for the clarification, so if I play an NTSC cartridge on my PAL equipment it will most likely just be funny colours ... maybe thats why the walls are purple in pitfall

My 2600 has that problem too, it's a loose connection between the power supply socket and the circuit board, maybe I'll fix it tomorrow when I'm not drunk

Sorry, I haven't got the magic to accomplish that. The confusing thing is that while half my cartridges have PAL on them, the rest dont have any indication of PAL or NTSC so this makes me wonder if it even matters at all!

Don't go chopping bits off! I'd suggest some sort of lubrication, then if that doesn't work, sanding the holes wider.

A different power supply.

I've always liked Steeplechase too. I've got one or two spare if anyone's looking. I want one! But I require PAL format ...

I thought the track ball was a substitute for a joystick?

I second what the above two chaps said, this is often the mains AC frequency leaking through the filter capacitor(s)

Any 9 volt, 500 milliamp output transformer will do. For my 2600 I use an old British Telecom phone power supply

Caps lock; For when you want to look really smart. This'll just be the European version. I have a few games with the instructions in all those languages

I'm going to have to get one of these, needing to blow your nose in the middle of a game of Megamania is a hellish situation.

I dont think anyone mentioned this one yet, but it's pretty unknown Maze Craze! It's definately my favorite Atari game, if you play it have the game select matrix to hand (aka: the game variations table) It gets really challenging and interesting in the mode where you can add flase walls to the maze and have to catch 3 "robbers" (coloured squares) before you can escape! Additionally every maze is different, they are randomly generated each time you start a new maze!

oops I just discovered an error! The ranges are, Warlords: 380 K ohms to 33 K ohms, Super Breakout: 350 K ohms to 36 K ohms. Just accidentally added an extra hunded thousand ohms in my calculations I just tried out a 220k pot and you can get almost the full range of movement even though it's more than 100k ohms off what I calculated, a 500k pot works well however I think something like a 650k pot would work better, but then again it's almost all down to personal taste or the game you are playing.

Okay I just did an experiment with a rudimentary ohm-meter I built from some stuff in my lab, so these results are aproximate but damn near correct if you ask me I tested Warlords and Super Breakout, Warlords had a slightly larger range than Super Breakout, my results are; Warlords: 480 K ohms to 33 K ohms Super Breakout: 450 K ohms to 36 K ohms. For both that's a range of over 400k. Now back to the lab to try some different potentiometers.

So I'm looking for paddle controlled games for the Atari 2600 and thought I'd trade some games to save a little cash I've got the silver and red label versions of Centipede and will trade either one of them for any paddle controlled Atari 2600 game you are offering! PAL format carts please Both have some scratches but nothing too detrimental, they both still look clean- none of those weird dark splodges some cartidges have. Location: England, UK (I'd prefer to trade inland but overseas is okay too, as postage should not be too much more) Tech info: The silver label cart is PAL (has the P on the end) but the red label has no markings that indicate PAL or NTSC however it works fine on my PAL atari

According to wikipedia: # TAC-2 has no microswitches, using instead a metal ball that short-circuited contacts (Don't you mean "connects contacts" wikipedia?) around the bottom shaft of the controller. # The fire buttons work with copper contact plates, which tend to become oxidized and thus need care every now and then. Sounds like a bit of cleaning will make it work again!

Bad capacitors are quite often the source of problems in electronics. Fortunately they are cheap and normally easy to fix

I must get some of that grease too, I allways overshoot on supert breakout I am going to buy lots of paddle controled games and find out if that is so

Ah but thats exactly what you'd expect from the mechanical virus, a damaged plug bends the same pins in every socket it is used in! Antivirus:

I couldn't quite tell from your first post but did you want the text "AtariAge/Monkey Labs CGE 2010" included somewhere on the label? Have some of my entries anyway

Hey be sure to post your findings, datasheets and pins numbers etc, I'd be really interested to find out aswell.