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About santosp

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  • Birthday 07/21/1973

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    Athens - Greece

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  1. Hi Larry, Mark means that these are mainly for hardware developers, due to the holes included in the side, so that one can easily control the various signals using special pin cables. Indeed these are very pricey!!! Except PIA, for everything else the passive parts will have to be transported a bit during the design.
  2. Also this version is a "naked" pcb who anyone could to add ic sockets. So Ultimate add on could be possible. I am agreed for some ready points for the scattered signals which it need.
  3. I wonder if someone have check if this solution working as a worthy replacement versus the original custom ic from Atari? I mean without side effects in some programs like the one who referred before.
  4. In the minimal changes who I will doing, I think "this" must be an option versus the original Atari custom ic....🙄 I mean a DIL of 24 pins socket versus of initial 20 pin socket, with some jumpers as to choose the use with one or the other ic.
  5. The progress till now, using the Atari 's funny pcb marking for the ic components placement. This isn't so professionally but I go so mainly for the accuracy with the original.🙄 In order to get accurate measurements, I had to find a board from it and detach almost all the components except the passive ones. Fortunately, one was found from the ebay of Slovakia, and although the most main ic parts was already missed, finally fulfilled the purpose for which it was purchased.
  6. Just to clarify that when we speak for UAV board, we mean as a permanent design in pcb board on the empty space in rf modulator area. Not a add-on which will needed as an extra device to be working the motherboard. Also if I understand good the above pcb is in ITX form, who isn't the subject here.
  7. Hi Ken, why is better to go with 16 ram ic's and not with 4 only? I see some lots on ebay lets say from Sanyo (LH2464) at 5.5 euro per 5 pieces.
  8. Thank you all for your replies on the subject. 🙂 Really I got very useful things and knowledge from you, and I am sure that I will get more when it needed. Such as some of you I am closer to the idea for a pcb design like the original from the Atari. Why? Because I am sure that many XE owners who will decide to change their motherborads they will already have some add-ons, will want to use them again. So if I made modifications on the pcb board and in the components, my previous reasoning may be not feasible at all. Also how do you see the idea to use the same ram implementation with the four ic, like did the Atari on her mainboard? Even this is a step to simplify the design of the board. I read in your messages that you speak for a cleaner video signal output. I thought that this will be solved with a "UAV" designed on board. If not, can someone propose what else needs to be changed exactly in the design to have a better result? Maybe a four layer design with independent ground and voltage planes? Or is not so crucial and with some other tricks we can avoid those damned screen bars and any other noises there.
  9. Hello to all. I have started to work in a remake of Atari 130XE pcb board, more specific with the 4 rams. The main reason who I started is because I never seen someone else before to do this for the XE range. Many things run in my head about the final design of this pcb board. Must be a 1/1 remake like the original? Maybe with smd components for the passives like resistors, capacitors and diodes? Maybe with a cpld which equates Freddie and both the Gals; Or is better this to be exact the same like the original pcb, so to be possible after for the new owner to add any upgrades? Even so would be more usefull if I add on the UAV mod in the place who initially was the rf modulator? At the end, is needed to do this remake at all???😂🤣 I would like very much to listen your thoughts and ideas about this. Whether positive or negative they are all welcome.
  10. https://usermanual.wiki/InterLogix/Mvc21SPrd.549944771 In reality is a NTSC monitor compatible with the PAL color system. This look also from the resolution who is 500 horizontal lines. One speaker in front side, so it is monaural. In any case an excellent N.O.S monitor. So grab these as much as is still available. If was possible to ship to me these here in Greece even with the slow way -in a tanker ship-😁 , I will buy them all!!!
  11. A better view as is now because the previous was a preliminary design.
  12. I wonder how you will insert in your Atari the adapter , without to cut the ECI side of the printed circuit board!? I mean is not possible because it will contrary to the plastic shell. But even if this was possible, by sticking the cables directly to the adapter, it would never allow its removal from the Atari! The inputs on the new version, is marked on the adapter right next in the 10 pin slots, to which will be stuck the extra male IDC connector.
  13. I don't remember who from the interested members asked me about this in the past within personal message, but now is here. I hope this to help this member to use his Freezer device. It will must cut part of the edge of XE adapter, using for example a Dremel tool. After, it must manage a 8 pin IDC connector using ribbon cable, and plug it in the specific slot of the Freezer XE adapter. -This specific slot designed only in this version of Turbo Freezer 2011 device.-
  14. Hi Stephen, Because I work on a remake of this ancient PBI tester in a new small form, I wonder if you ever use this the last 10 years😄 to do some repair or anything. I really don't know if it worth it, but I say to give it a try and order some boards just to see if it works. This time except from the CPLD and its power supply, I designed all the other parts using through hole components, as to be possible to give it as a kit also. With that way also look more retro than using only smd components. Anyway let's see…
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