yllawwally
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Posts posted by yllawwally
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How big is your game? 2k and 4k games can be made with less work. I couldn't blank pcb's in the store. So you would probably need to recycle old games.
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You want it on Volts. You are expecting a 5 volt signal.
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Do you have a multi-meter? The easiest thing to test, is to see if there is enough power. If you measure on the 7805. It's a little block with a metal tab. It will be near the power cord. Measure the power from the middle leg to each of the other legs. One side should be about 9v. The other leg should be 4.95 to 5.15 volts.
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Untested doesn't mean run over. The light just means you have power. It doesn't even mean that the power is good enough to run the machine, just that at least 2 volts is present. Do you get sound? Is the video black, or weird lines? When you look at the tv does it look different when the atari is powered on?
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Isn't this similar to what was wanted for one of the swordquest games? 1 bit determines, chase or run for player. Another bit to decide if you avoid or attack the monsters. A couple of bytes that would determine how a room would act.
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Those also happen to be the ones I would most have liked to see new versions of. It seems to me that most of the IP wouldn't really translate to modern games. Alien Brigade could be pushed into a FPS. Food Fight as a fun multi-player kids game. Warlords could maybe be turned into something modern for the casual market. Swordquest wasn't fun, but could be made into an interesting new game. Haunted House could be redone pretty well with the graphics available now, and with the wii-u might be interesting. Crystal Castles could be remade, as a casual game. I just don't see anything really exciting with this list. I would buy most of these if remade, but I just don't see a large market for anything here.
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This is a list of everything I can think of that would be atari's. Are there all actually Atari's, and did I miss any major titles. Adventure, Breakout, Centipede, Crystal Castles, Defender, Food Fight, Pong, Warlords, Tempest, Missle Command, Alien Brigade, 720, Gauntlet, Paperboy, Primal Rage, Road Blasters, Vindicators APB, BattleZone, fatal run, yar's revenge, swordquest, haunted house
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What IP does atari have? Most of the titles that come to mind for the 2600, were not atari, such as pitfall.
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I was originally thinking it needed two buttons. But if you attack by touching a monster. The button can be used for a menu. The original was always a pain for shooting bows, and doing other things, so it makes sense. How often are you using potions and scrolls.
One more rule I forgot was about, is that you get a saving throw versus magic. roll a d20 and if it's less than your level the bad affect of magic doesn't damage you, this also works for the monsters.
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Potions:
potion of blindness(throw at monster)
potion of confusion(throw at monster)
potion of detect monster
potion of detect things
potion of extra healing
potion of hallucination
potion of haste self
potion of healing
Potion of increase strength
potion of levitation
potion of major healing
potion of magic detection
potion of paralysis(throw at monster)
potion of poison(throw at monster)
potion of raise level
potion of restore strength
potion of see invisible
potion of nothing
Scrolls:
scroll of aggravate monster
scroll of confuse monster
scroll of create monster
scroll of enchant armor
scroll of enchant weapon
scroll of hold monster
scroll of identify
scroll of magic mapping
scroll of map food
scroll of protect armor
scroll of remove curse
scroll of scare monster(if stood on you're invincible)
scroll of sleep
scroll of teleportation
scroll of uncurse
scroll of Vorpalize Weapon
Scroll of Blank Paper
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I think scrolls shouldn't be combined with potions. Because of the identify scroll. Having this as a potion, takes out some strategy. Scrolls never directly hurt the player. So they were always safe to use before you know what they are. Potions can easily kill the player, and sometimes are best thrown at the monster.
Staff and Wand (has number of charges, never cursed(but effect not always benificial))
-cancellation / Reveals invisible or disguised monsters
-cold / ice
-drain life / you are too weak to use it You used it when you had less than 2 hit points OR you have a tingling feeling You used it with no monsters around
-fire / flame
-haste monster / speeds monster up
-light / the room is lit by a shimmering blue light OR the corridor glows and then fades you used a wand of light in a corridor OR you feel a warm glow around you You used a wand of light when blind
-lightning / bolt of lightning
-magic missile / The missile vanishes in a puff of smoke Only if the monster saved versus magic (see top of page)
-polymorph / Turns monster into another monster (and not necessarily a monster that's easier to kill!)
-slow monster / slows monster down
-striking / does serious damage to monster (2d8 w/ +4 to hit, 5% chance of 3d8 w/+9 to hit)
-teleport away / moves monster to a different room
-teleport to / moves monster right next to you
-vorpalized weapon the monster vanishes in a puff of smoke Used a vorpalized weapon on the correct monster (guaranteed kill) OR you hear a maniacal chuckle in the distance Used a vorpalized weapon on the wrong monster
-nothing (used up) nothing happens
-undefined what a bizarre schtick!
Rings
Ring type / Cost in food points (per turn)
add strength / 1
adornment / 0
aggravate monster(Cursed) / 0
dexterity / 1-3
increase damage / 1-3
reduced damage(Cursed) / 1-3
maintain armor (protects from Aquator)/ 1
protection / 1
regeneration / 2
searching / 1-4
slow digestion adds 0-1 / (obv no food cost)
stealth / 1
sustain strength (protect from rattlesnake)/ 1
Teleportation every 80 turns (Cursed)/ 1
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The combat system was based on DND. It used Thac0, for hit determination. A random number from 1-20 minus the player Attack ability, if this number is below the creature armor you would hit it. A random number of 1, was always a hit, and a random number of 20, was always a miss. But they inverted the system for player armor. The higher the player armor the better. You simply need to take 10 and subtract the armor level. Such that the best armor plate mail would count as 10-7 = 3.
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The stats below are from the original game:
Weapons (Each one had 3 modifiers, Cursed(Y/N),Damage Adjust,To Hit Adjust)
Mace: Slash 2d4 Thrown 1d3
Long sword: Slash 3d4 Thrown 1d2
Bow: Slash 1d1 Thrown 1d1
Arrow: Slash 1d1 Thrown 2d3
Dagger: Slash 1d6 Thrown 1d4
Two Handed Sword: Slash 4d4 Thrown 1d2
Dart: Slash 1d1 Thrown 1d3
Crossbow: Slash 1d1 Thrown 1d1
Crossbow bolt: Slash 1d2 Thrown 2d5
Spear: Slash 2d3 Thrown 1d6
Armor (Each had 2 modifiers, Cursed(Y/N), Enhancement
No Armor: Lvl 0
leather armor: Lvl 2
studded leather armor / ring mail: Lvl 3
scale mail: Lvl 4
chain mail: Lvl 5
banded mail / splint mail: Lvl 6
plate mail: Lvl 7
Traps
trapdoor: Effect Fall to a more difficult level.
bear trap: Effect Costs hit points, and it may take you a few moves to break free.
sleeping gas trap: Effect You sleep for several moves
arrow trap: Effect Costs hit points
teleport trap: Effect Teleport to anywhere on the same level or another level
poison dart trap: Effect Costs strength points
weird trap: Effect Undefined trap
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In the original game these are the special attacks
Aquators rust your armor (decrease by one per hit)
Ice monsters can freeze you (for several moves, giving other monsters a go at you!)
Leprechauns steal gold if given the chance to hit you.
Medusas confuse you with their gaze, making it difficult to accomplish anything.
Nymphs steal magic items if given a chance to hit you.
Vampires steal maximum hit points
Wraiths drain experience points
Xeroc's mimic (photocopy?) other items, giving you a nasty surprise when you try to pick them up!. Zapping a hiding Xeroc with a wand of cancellation will reveal it.
If monster is held or sleeping, you get a +4 to hit
Monster Stats
Name: aquator Abil: M Lvl: 5 Arm: 2 Att: 0d0/0d0Exp: 20 Gold: 0
Name: bat Abil: F Lvl: 1 Arm: 3 Att: 1d2Exp: 1 Gold: 0
Name: centaur Abil: Lvl: 4 Arm: 4 Att: 1d6/1d6Exp: 25 Gold: 15
Name: dragon Abil: M Lvl: 10 Arm: -1 Att: 1d8/1d8/3d10Exp: 6800 Gold: 100
Name: emu Abil: M Lvl: 1 Arm: 7 Att: 1d2Exp: 2 Gold: 0
Name: flytrap Abil: M Lvl: 8 Arm: 3 Att: %%%d0Exp: 80 Gold: 0
Name: griffin Abil: MFR Lvl: 13 Arm: 2 Att: 4d3/3d5/4d3Exp: 2000 Gold: 20
Name: hobgoblin Abil: M Lvl: 1 Arm: 5 Att: 1d8Exp: 3 Gold: 0
Name: ice monster Abil: M Lvl: 1 Arm: 9 Att: 1d2Exp: 15 Gold: 0
Name: jabberwock Abil: Lvl: 15 Arm: 6 Att: 2d12/2d4Exp: 4000 Gold: 70
Name: kestral Abil: MF Lvl: 1 Arm: 7 Att: 1d4Exp: 1 Gold: 0
Name: leprechaun Abil: G Lvl: 3 Arm: 8 Att: 1d2Exp: 10 Gold: (100?)
Name: medusa Abil: M Lvl: 8 Arm: 2 Att: 3d4/3d4/2d5Exp: 200 Gold: 40
Name: nymph Abil: Lvl: 3 Arm: 9 Att: 0d0Exp: 37 Gold: 100
Name: orc Abil: G Lvl: 1 Arm: 6 Att: 1d8Exp: 5 Gold: 15
Name: phantom Abil: I Lvl: 8 Arm: 3 Att: 4d4Exp: 120 Gold: 0
Name: quagga Abil: M Lvl: 3 Arm: 2 Att: 1d2/1d2/1d4Exp: 32 Gold: 30
Name: rattlesnake Abil: M Lvl: 2 Arm: 3 Att: 1d6Exp: 9 Gold: 0
Name: snake Abil: M Lvl: 2 Arm: 8 Att: 1d3Exp: 1 Gold: 0
Name: troll Abil: RM Lvl: 6 Arm: 4 Att: 1d8/1d8/2d6Exp: 120 Gold: 50
Name: ur-vile Abil: M Lvl: 7 Arm: -2 Att: 1d3/1d3/1d3/4d6Exp: 190 Gold: 0
Name: vampire Abil: RM Lvl: 8 Arm: 1 Att: 1d10Exp: 350 Gold: 20
Name: wraith Abil: Lvl: 5 Arm: 4 Att: 1d6Exp: 55 Gold: 0
Name: xeroc Abil: Lvl: 7 Arm: 7 Att: 3d4Exp: 100 Gold: 30
Name: yeti Abil: Lvl: 4 Arm: 6 Att: 1d6/1d6Exp: 50 Gold: 30
Name: zombie Abil: M Lvl: 2 Arm: 8 Att: 1dExp: 6 Gold: 0
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It would be best to have Atari close to the player. I tried to use extenders. I had 2 6 ft extenders. If I used just one I could use the paddles, but they didn't go all the ways to the end of the field. With both for a total of 12 feet, the paddle only went to the middle. So I never could reach the right side of the screen.
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This is the item you want a de-modulator, but they are pricey. A DVD player or VCR that does it would be much cheaper.
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Are you using the same rf adapter for both units. If the first machine shows no ghosting, but the second does, then it must be internal. You probably need to replace the voltage regulator and few caps. You can test the regulator easily. Just use a multi-meter to test the voltage. One leg to the middle will have 7+ volts, while the other leg will have 4.9 to 5.1 v. If it's less than this the regulator is bad.
You replaced the power switch recently on the first one, and the switch is still bad?
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4.8v is generally not enough. That voltage will usually allow the atari to start but give weird video issues, such as rolling, fuzziness, and color problems. I would put a new regulator in, they're cheap and easily swapped.
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If the TIA is socketed I would try pulling it out and re-seating it. You can measure the voltage from the 7805. It should be between about 4.95 and 5.15, the middle leg is common. Do you have a multi-meter?
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I was hoping you'd say that the b/w picture was not really clear. B/W is much easier for TV's to grab, with color a secondary consideration. At least that's how tv signals work in the US. I'm very familiar with pal. It seems that it can't be the connection to the TV, and probably isn't a voltage. Usually replacing the voltage regulator and related capacitors is first on my list. It does seem like the frequency is not quite right. Maybe the TIA is bad, or the crystal is failing, so the frequency is a little off. Can you try changing the channel the Atari broadcasts on. On the back, there should be a 3/4 selector.
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Is the B/W picture clear? Or is it a fuzzy picture? Are you using the same tv switch for both systems?
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The flashback and anthologies don't count against the exclusive game because they were made after the 2600's lifetime.
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I guess I just assumed they had ported adventure to something else. Quadrun I thought was an arcade port. Didn't fatal run get ported to the 7800?
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Pitfall Harry, Adventure Dragon, Pac Man, Ms Pac Man, ET, Space Invader, Mario, Swordquest Twins, Donkey Kong, Kaboom Crook, Pheonix Bird, Dig Dug Guy, Frogger, Q-Bert, Joust
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My junior is trash...
in Atari 2600
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Exactly the way it is shown in the picture. Putting the black probe to the center leg and touch the other legs with the red probe, one at a time.