tz101

Four step process here, but all equipment is available at Radio Shack or K Mart. First, you will need this type of coaxial plug from your Atari/Coleco/Mattel console's output cable: Next, the threaded end of that coaxial adapter will screw onto the 75 ohm input of this RFU modulator, readily available at most department/electronic stores: Third, plug a component cable (red, yellow, white RCA male connectors on both ends) from the RCA outputs on the RF modulator to the RCA component inputs on this system selector switch. Again, readily available at most retail outlets: Last, plug a component cable (red, yellow, white RCA male connectors on both ends) from the RCA outputs on the system selector switch to the component (RCA connectors) on your modern TV set (see picture below). One thing to consider: If you want to be able to switch between systems with the system selector switch, you will need a separate RF modulator for each system (or just do an AV mod to each of the classic consoles and they will output component AV so no need for the modulator). Hope this is somewhat helpful.

Are you asking for one, or just making a statement? I have a box for a Sears Tele Games heavy sixer, but it is torn on the ends. Even so, I do not know how it would be scanned. Most scanners will only go up to legal size at the largest, and a VCS box is much larger than that.

For the record: I was not aware of any of this until this thread, so I was not one who ever promised scans, nor anything else, for this database. I have my own similar project I am working on, linked in my signature. FYI.

Something sounds real shady about the OP.

Where will this database eventually end up for the good of the Atari and Intellivision communities? AA, or another site? As for the OP, I can understand both sides. People who make promises need to follow through, plain and simple. I agree with you about society in general having a good portion of people not holding true to their word. I could preach a sermon on that and the scriptural relevance thereof. As far as the perception of nagging and whining: Its a no-win situation. People who are responsible types will follow through and yet some will accuse you of nagging and whining. Mostly, I have learned to be happy with those who help out even in the slightest.

With a 600 DPI image and decent printer, there is no visible difference between my end label reprints and the originals. Even the feel is nice and smooth and the durability is nice. I tried an experiment with rubbing alcohol on a q-tip (like I clean many of my cartridges with) and it removed absolutely none of the ink from my printed end label. Elmer's glue dries clear so it is barely evident, and not so if you clean it up with a damp cloth before it dries completely. I guess it is a psychological issue with some. Did you not understand what he said? He wants the real deal, not some fake. Would you say something like this if was a Mickey Mantle baseball card? Of course not. Again no matter how much like the orginal you have it, it does not matter. A reproduction, is a reproduction, is a reproduction. I understood, but that is your interpretation, not what he said. I have a feeling there are some "original" carts selling with repro labels on them and no one is the wiser.

With a 600 DPI image and decent printer, there is no visible difference between my end label reprints and the originals. Even the feel is nice and smooth and the durability is nice. I tried an experiment with rubbing alcohol on a q-tip (like I clean many of my cartridges with) and it removed absolutely none of the ink from my printed end label. Elmer's glue dries clear so it is barely evident, and not so if you clean it up with a damp cloth before it dries completely. I guess it is a psychological issue with some.

Nolan plagiarized. Who woulda thunk it?

No VCS game cart slot or SD card support and an underwhelming library of installed game titles. Yawwwwnnnnn....

1. Compatibility with CX-40 joysticks and VCS paddle controllers 2. Mo' betta games, as in Galaga, Make Trax, I-Robot, Pac Man Jr, Crystal Castles, Xevious, Star Wars Arcade, Battlezone, Tempest, etc. 3. Full compatibility with VCS game carts without a plug in adapter 4. Compatibility with Colecovision game carts 5. Compatibility with A400/800 games 6. Compatibility with Intellivision game carts

Why? Just download the scanned images from this or any of a variety of classic gaming sites, print out onto photo stock and use some Elmer's glue. In this age of internet and good quality ink-jet printers, there is no good reason people like yourself should have game cartridges with missing end labels.

Neo Geo emulator is one I like because I never had the money for the system back in the day.

Not good. I stored my Atari and carts out in an unheated barn for years. Some of the cartridges died from the freeze/thaw cycles.

Every time I've been told, "Stay away from brand X controller", the opposite seems to be true. I was told to avoid High Frequency branded controllers for Sega Genesis, but have three of them and they all are great as far as I can tell. I have Mad Catz controllers for GC and Xbox, along with a racing wheel/pedals set for PS2. They all work great, Only thing, and it was mentioned earlier in this thread, is the rubber grips sometimes come off the sides of their controllers. Nothing that a little contact cement won't fix. Anger and video game controllers do not mix well...

It adds colored borders around the edge of your TV screen and enlarges the playing area based on how large your set is. Plus, it colorizes the backgrounds to a beige-ish color opposed to the gray on GB.

154 and building.

Just curious to know if someone has tried modding the original 5200 controller with an analog stick from a N64/Gamecube/PS2/Xbox/Dreamcast controller. They are self-centering and should be readily available. Would any of these work for 5200?

Milli has more going on, so my preferred version. I have Centi for VCS and 5200, but wondered if they ever released Milli for either of those systems. I am going to pick up an NES cart of Milli this week.

I like this idea. A must-have title would be Williams' Make Trax.

As far as I can tell, it's still legal in all 50 states to post same threads on multiple forum sites. Get a life, a job, or perhaps both!

I believe that temperature and humidity conditions are also the main reason for all the spotted Activision labels that are out there.

Ship them to me and I'll take care of that for you...

ABS plastic that Nintendo used in the SNES console cases was sensitive to oxidization and UV light. Even if it never saw the sun, much indoor lighting will have an effect on it over a period of years. The fix is to either paint it a cool color scheme, or use a hydrogen peroxide solution bath for a couple days. This procedure is detailed on various sites and works quite well at restoring the original gray color to the ABS shell.

No, but I have quite a few that have missing end labels. All I do is use this, print it out on matte finish photo stock, and glue it in place with Elmer's glue or contact cement. Presto, no one can tell the difference between my game cart and an Atari original.

I understand the premise, but it is somewhat disinteresting to me because of the fantasy aspect of it all. I mean when you fill out brackets for March Madness there are real teams playing those games. Not the case here. Plus, I never got into fantasy football or any of that stuff. Maybe I'm too grounded in reality...