tz101

I have collected for virtually every classic gaming system out there, save Colecovision and some oddities like Vectrex and TG-16. I am finally to a point where I think I may be able to afford to acquire a CV. The only thing is that I never see them in the wild and they run fairly expensive on Ebay. So before I shell out Ebay money, please tell me: Is it worth it? In other words, will I suddenly find myself disappointed when the system arrives via UPS at my doorstep? Of course, I also have to get my hands on some games, but that is secondary. Are the stock controllers difficult to use? I would like to know pluses and minuses before I make this investment.

Nothing that a jeweler's screwdriver and some gently prying on the pins cannot correct. Even that will not be needed until after years of using the GG.

No hacking necessary if you buy a RF converter. Surely your 65" Mitsubishi has some component RCA inputs?

Is a Tele-Games Video Arcade II considered similar to a 2600 Jr? I have heard them called a 2800, but don't see my system listed on your poll.

This might get some more informed answers here: http://www.sega-16.com/forum/index.php

Also: FB2 has some home brews included that are only available through AA or other online sources. Makes it easier than buying these carts.

There are some free downloadable programs like Cart Commander, and a few others that are for sale. Some have mentioned Excel, but I steer away from it because it has no database functionality. Best answer is create your own MS Access database. Just be sure to set it up with all the different categories you may want to search for in the future. For instance, if you want to find all Genesis games you have made by Acclaim, then you have to have "system" and "manufacturer" as a data fields in your database. If you include year of release, then you can search for all NES games released in 1988, for example. Possibilities are endless with a good database.

Looks like a problem with the video processor chip. If the RF had problems, all you would see is black screen or static. Not a good sign.

Stunt Race FX Yoshi's Island (Super Mario World 2) Tecmo Super Bowl Michael Jordan Chaos in the Windy City Super R-Type Arkanoid Doh it Again

So, conversely, it is technically possible to make an adapter that lets a person play joystick games with a paddle/driving controller as well then. Now somebody needs to get to work on this pronto...

OK, I bought a copy of Yar's Revenge recently, but do not understand the premise at all. Since I have no history with this game, and no instructions came with it, can someone give the condensed version of instructions for it? What is the purpose of the scrambled looking colored bar that runs vertically across the screen? Thanks.

All of them have pluses and minuses. Collect them all as they can be found for cheap at Goodwill and Salvation Army regularly.

Store your system away from extreme cold or hot temperatures along with high humidity (worst enemy of game contacts). Do not leave game cartridges inserted when not playing them. Clean your game cartridge contacts with 91% isopropyl alcohol at least once a month. Following these simple rules will make your 72-pin connector last for decades.

Best to just use a hot glue gun to place a dot of hot glue on the contacts when replacing system/game cart batteries. No danger of exploding a Ni-Cad battery with a soldering iron when I use this technique.

And this is leading to what? Somebody could reproduce some console and controller shells for sale to collectors and enthusiasts?

The bigger question-- how do you properly close the power supply? I opened up an Atari 520ST power supply once and now it's risky to use for kids or I have to close the vents with tape and risk it breaking down again. Super glue works wonders.

I went and bought the FB2 today at the used game store. They gave me a worn out Gemini stick in place of the CX-40, but overall I am happy with the system for only $12.50. The selection of game ROM's seems pretty nice too. I never had Millipede before.

I'm not sure what you're saying there. In case you misunderstood my question, I was asking if Intellivision's RF port was compatible with a normal RF cord (such as the kind you would use on an NES or SNES.). Yes. Intellivision's RF port will work with any of the auto Rf switch cables like NES, Genesis, Jaguar, SMS, etc. Even a single RCA component wire will connect you fine as long as you have one of the coaxial to 75 ohm adapters pictured in posts above.

This is the problem with all modern video games and systems. Somewhere along the line companies came to believe that all that matters to your average video gamer is the holy grail of "realistic graphics". So what we have ended up with is a lot of eye candy for the ooh and aah crowd. Who cares about strategy, fun, and playability in a game? I don't own any of the current gen systems, but often find my old 2600, Intellivision, and NES games much more fun and engaging than most of what I have for Xbox, PS2, or GC.

Genesis model I is rated at 9-10v DC with center negative, so should be fine as long as the plug is proper diameter to fit into the Famicom female plug. Before you order one, take a trip to your local Goodwill or Salvation Army store. They usually have bins of orphaned power adapters for $1-$2 a piece. You don't need a Sega or Nintendo brand adapter as long as it outputs 9-10v DC at minimum 1 amp with center negative polarity and correct sized plug. I have found numerous ones for answering machines and kids toys that will work fine on a Genesis model I. Also, Atari Jaguar and Sega Master System power bricks will do fine for your Famicom. FYI.

Where's a good source for modding info? I have heard it is possible to load all the Atari, NES, and Sega Rom's onto the HDD and have a classic gaming machine. Is a special chip required?

Ok. This is great because it worked. I plugged in the AV cable and the blinking stopped, although I then had the dreaded RROD. Next step, I swapped out the DVD drive with a spare from my other Xbox console with the bad power supply, and presto, the console works fine. No more amber/green blinking LED and no more RROD. Thanks to everybody for the good advice.

I picked up an original Xbox console for cheap, but it flashes between amber and green colors for the LED and the DVD drawer will not eject. Mainly, I bought it because it does power on, and I have another with a dead power supply, figuring I could simply swap out the power supplies. Not the case. It appears that one console was manufactured in 2003 and the other in 2005, and that Microsoft changed the wiring configuration where the power supply plugs onto the main board between these two consoles, because there are four empty pin sockets on the 2003 unit and five empty pin sockets on the 2005 model. Plus, these empty pin sockets are at different locations on the multi-pin power plug coming off the supply. Seeing as how the 2005 power supply is not going to be capable of powering the 2003 main board, I would now like to possibly repair the amber/green flashing console. Does anyone have ideas about where to start? I saw the mention of possible A/V port problems on another Xbox forum, but the A/V port on this one seems to be soldered in place firmly. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Tecmo Super Bowl beats Madden any day. That list is lame.

Go to the link in my signature, look under the Atari, Mattel and Coleco sections. Lots of excellent quality overlays scanned for printing to photo grade print stock.