amiman99

Looks like my 501 bite the dust. The disk would not eject and no video out , SAD! found the service manual here: https://elektrotanya.com/samsung_dvd-n501_sm.pdf/download.html

I just saw your new video, controller looks nice and I like those yellow buttons. One tip if the case has some gaps. Use a hair dryer to heat up (not too much) the top plastic of the fully assembled controller, then squeeze it tight till it cools down. That should close the small gaps you may have.

The Prusa I3 MK3 is one of the best 3D printers.

I finally got my Goteks modded, super easy. On A500 I run the wires through the case, on STe I run the cables on the outside, I did not want to drill the holes.

No problem, I always wanted a replacement joystick for 5200, so your board and my case did the trick. What printer did you get? I was able to print w/o supports using PLA. My Gray PLA printed pretty good, but my White PLA needed some sanding to make it look better.

Check if you soldered all the pins on the analog stick.

9V is a AC, not DC, maybe that's why your readings fluctuate.

Thanks Osgeld, I changed the: if loop_number < 12 to if (loop_number < 12) and it worked, Thanks a lot!

Hi, Can someone help me with my Arduino code? I need my main loop to loop or do 12 times only and then stop. I know it nees some kind of FOR statement, but I don't know where to put it. Thanks ========================================== // #define STEPPER_PIN_1 10 #define STEPPER_PIN_2 11 #define STEPPER_PIN_3 12 #define STEPPER_PIN_4 13 #define RELAY_PIN_9 9 int step_number = 0; void setup() { pinMode(STEPPER_PIN_1, OUTPUT); pinMode(STEPPER_PIN_2, OUTPUT); pinMode(STEPPER_PIN_3, OUTPUT); pinMode(STEPPER_PIN_4, OUTPUT); pinMode(RELAY_PIN_9, OUTPUT); } void loop() { for(int a = 0; a < 1400; a++){ OneStep(false); delay(2); if (a == 0){ delay(500); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_1, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_2, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_3, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_4, LOW); digitalWrite(RELAY_PIN_9, HIGH); delay(1000); digitalWrite(RELAY_PIN_9, LOW); delay(500); } } } void OneStep(bool dir){ if(dir){ switch(step_number){ case 0: digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_1, HIGH); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_2, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_3, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_4, LOW); break; case 1: digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_1, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_2, HIGH); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_3, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_4, LOW); break; case 2: digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_1, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_2, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_3, HIGH); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_4, LOW); break; case 3: digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_1, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_2, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_3, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_4, HIGH); break; } }else{ switch(step_number){ case 0: digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_1, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_2, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_3, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_4, HIGH); break; case 1: digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_1, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_2, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_3, HIGH); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_4, LOW); break; case 2: digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_1, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_2, HIGH); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_3, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_4, LOW); break; case 3: digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_1, HIGH); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_2, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_3, LOW); digitalWrite(STEPPER_PIN_4, LOW); } } step_number++; if(step_number > 3){ step_number = 0; } } ================================================

The Trinket is very small, good for small footprint projects. Thanks. BTW, I'm not a programming wizard, so it takes me awhile to research examples. My latest project using the Arduino is a semi-autonomous 3D scanning apparatus. Basically, a turntable that rotates by 15degrees, then is stops. Then I activate a relay that is connected to remote shutter of my SLR camera and it takes a picture.

I don't now what Trinket is, but you could use the arduino nano if size is your concern.

Ok, got the IR design done. You need to get the Arduino, IR receiver, and relay module. Here is the code and some pictures: The value of 0xFF6897 needs to be replaced with the value from your remote control, it could be almost any remote. You can increase the delay if you want a longer reset hold. Wire the relay outputs to CPUWIZ photo I think it should work, I don't have multicart for my 5200, so for me, there is no point of doing it. ============================ #include <IRremote.h> int relay = 8; const int RECV_PIN = 11; IRrecv irrecv(RECV_PIN); decode_results results; unsigned long key_value = 0; void setup(){ Serial.begin(9600); irrecv.enableIRIn(); irrecv.blink13(true); pinMode(relay, OUTPUT); } void loop(){ if (irrecv.decode(&results)){ Serial.println(results.value, HEX); irrecv.resume(); if (results.value == 0XFFFFFFFF) results.value = key_value; switch(results.value){ case 0xFF6897: //key 0 pressed digitalWrite (relay, HIGH); delay(500); digitalWrite (relay, LOW); break; } key_value = results.value; irrecv.resume(); } } ==========================================

No plans, but I could try to make them for you.

I have same 2 LCDs waiting for me to do the mod. One on my A500 and other on STe. Looks good.

You could use Arduino with a relay and IR. Use TV remote control of your choosing. Simple to do.

This is what I wanted, a proper MK1 remake, it's too bad it won't be continued. I wished MK developers would do a proper remake in 2D, not just Arkade ports. I played the demo and it looks very nice, you all should try it. It looks amazing in full screen. https://www.dsogaming.com/news/you-can-now-download-and-play-the-prototype-versions-of-the-hd-fan-remake-of-mortal-kombat/

It looks like the differences were made because the programmers/publishers wanted to add or enhance the game for their respective platforms, not that the Jaguar was less capable. Unfortunate (or maybe fortunate) for the Jaguar is that the Rayman was first released on it, so it got the ver 1 of the game. I have the game for the Jaguar , Saturn and the PS1, it's too bad that is too hard for me to get a full play through.

Found this video in my YT feed, very interesting.

3D printers! Design and make your own stuff, incredible! Great for printing spare or missing parts for classic computers. One of the first thing I did, is to design and print my missing Amiga 3000 floppy eject button. YESS!

Hmmm... I have no idea what is going on here, just saying...

There is a Genesis emulator, SNES, Atari 5200 and NES. Most PS1 games run from the USB stick ( For some reason Ridge Racer and Rage Racer have big graphical glitches, I have those games so no biggie). There is a compatibility spreadsheet you can check, not very complete. The PS1 "emulator" uses virtual memory cards too, so no need for those either.

It's not going to cost as much, on the pinch, you could get PS2 that does not play disks, plus $5 32GB USB stick, $5 mem card and you are good to go. Popstarter works well from USB stick, and I know not all games work, but you could load games that you actually want. I'm very impressed so far.

I think you should just get a PS2 Slim, FreeMCBoot and Popstarter, classic PS Mini right there. wink, wink...

The cheapest way to get the controller is to build it yourself. You can get the PCB here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/281610-nuon-rotary-controllers-are-ready/for $50 plus the cost of other parts.