amiman99

The cheapest way to get the controller is to build it yourself. You can get the PCB here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/281610-nuon-rotary-controllers-are-ready/for $50 plus the cost of other parts.

Here is the remote for it: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toshiba-SE-R0029-DVD-Player-Remote-Control-with-Battery-Cover-C10/163100171718 Model SE-R0029

They should probably make Robotron, Total Carnage, Smash TV Arcade cabinet. I would buy that for a dollar.

I like -1 writing style, I don't like moving my eyes while reading and loosing my line spacing. I'm reading this forum on a 23in widescreen monitor, so when the text is not short formatted then I have a tendency to loose my line position. That happens more often in long paragraphs. So, keep what you are doing -1 ! BTW, nice review. I'm tempted to get one of those cabinets (the 6 in 1 or 12 in 1), but something in my head is preventing me from doing that (tiny little voice).

Is it free or you have to buy it from them?

I'm not sure of the paint quality of the cabinets, it looks like it needs some protective coating to last longer. I took this picture of the demo model at the Think Geek, the Walmart model had the same problem.

I had one (black one) and it died on me 10 something years ago. I probably still have the receiver somewhere in the box. I'm not sure if it's better then official PS2 controller, and when your battery is low, you get intermittent response and missed button presses.

1. Left / Right: is where the analog stick is. When in doubt, you open the files in CURA you will see how they look. 2. Short buttons design, for now. 3. Use 6mm BRIM to hold the buttons to the plate. You need 3x spr buttons, 2xFire buttons

Hi, Here is my case design, Let's call it "Version 1", with square buttons. The zip file includes the case for left and right analog joystick positions, plus all the needed buttons. The case can be printed w/o supports, if your printer can handle it. For best results print with supports around the edges. Print the case face down. Slow down the 1st layer print to 20mm/s, so it stick nice to the plate and gives you nice face. Print buttons with a BRIM around it. For the screws, use #4x3/8in Pan Philips 490192 Hillman or equvalent. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-4-x-3-8-in-Phillips-Drive-Sheet-Metal-Screws-24-Count/3034789 The picture is wrong, the screws are 3/8in long I only have and printed the left side design. To assemble it, drop your buttons in the top case, them PCB on top. Insert screws to the bottom case so they can stick out for 1-2mm, and then close. Atari 5200 smbaker joystick case.zip

Interested, pming....

For sale Splatoon 2 for Nintendo Switch, works fine. Case, Cover and Game. $45 shipped to US via First Class Mail Open for trades of equal value, PS4 games, WiiU, Saturn, PS1, etc. Let me know, the least I could do is say NO Thank you. Thanks.

Thanks, that fixed it!

@smbaker I tested the controller on bunch of games, and it works well. I noticed in the Missile Command that the crosshair is not in the middle, is it possible to calibrate this somehow? I also noticed in the Pacman, that sometimes when you start a level and go right then down, the controller becomes unresponsive. It's not always. Thanks

It looks like the buttons and the analog stick are perfectly mirrored, so it should fit fine when the buttons are flipped. Some of you made the fire buttons straight down, not at an angle, that is a problem.

You can. But, I was taking some shortcuts and printed w/o supports. When the overhang angle is greater then 45degrees then you should use supports. The problem with supports is that sometimes it's hard to remove, adds more filament, and have more post processing (cutting, sanding etc).

Yes, they just rest on top, except the fire buttons, they have small hole that they fit into loosely. I added a brim, so they won't pop out.

Another angle... Needs a little sand paper here and there.... I think the 2 color scheme looks nice, I did not like the top silver too much so I switched to white, looks much better. I played few games with it and it plays very nice, I wished the 5200 Frogger had an option to play it with out pressing the fire button, but I did find out that you can play Frogger with the keypad.

Ok, It took alot of work, but here it is: (The round edges are not perfect, because I printed w/o supports to make it faster)

Hi, I hope no one ordered the 12mm swithes, I made my final measurements and 3D printed the buttons, the final height of the buttons is around 17mm. for those who may want to use the taller buttons instead the printed ones then this button from Digikey is the correct one: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-alcoswitch-switches/3-1825910-1/450-1643-ND/1632529 For the tall buttons I would want to verify the diameter of the button, from the datasheets it looks like it's 2.8mm wide on the top. I could make the holes for the keypad at 3-3.2mm for it to fit. I will post final design soon

Correct.

Like this?

The top part printed fine and it fits well. Made a small mistake with the fire buttons, they are skewd up/left a bit. The start, pause and reset could be bigger. Other then that it's good. I do have technical problem. The analog joystick is not working properly. When I press left, it goes to up/left, and when I press right, it goes down/right. Up/down does not do anything. anyways to troubleshoot? EDIT: ME BIG DUMMY! Forgot to solder 3 pot pins on the joystick. I will do that first and see if it works. EDIT #2: It works fine! Tested with Robotron.

I will not print labels on the shell, printing the first layer is ALWAYS pain in the butt. I may try to print the labels on the buttons and see how it looks. In the future, for the ones who use the taller buttons, maybe we can somehow stamp in the labels? I'm reusing the back shell for the front, to make it smooth, the right angles may not be comfortable to hold. I could experiment later on with right angles on the top shell. I don't understand this statement: "s,p,r flex buttons(3 cut outs and spacer) and have open areas for the fire button key caps" (s,p,r = start, pause, reset)

I have a full page of tips and tricks for my ANET A8 3D printer. Some people hate the A8 and some love this printer, I love it. It's not for ordinary people, but for us tinkerers it's fine. It's a cheap printer that you need to assemble it yourself.

Bottom part is done, fits nicely, will print the top next...