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amiman99

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Posts posted by amiman99

  1. Posted

    You can.

    But, I was taking some shortcuts and printed w/o supports. When the overhang angle is greater then 45degrees then you should use supports. The problem with supports is that sometimes it's hard to remove, adds more filament, and have more post processing (cutting, sanding etc).

    Can that shell be sanded smooth with the filament you use?

  3. Posted

    Another angle...

    Needs a little sand paper here and there....

     

    I think the 2 color scheme looks nice, I did not like the top silver too much so I switched to white, looks much better.

     

    I played few games with it and it plays very nice, I wished the 5200 Frogger had an option to play it with out pressing the fire button, but I did find out that you can play Frogger with the keypad.

     

    post-24138-0-92323700-1541621693_thumb.jpg

    • Like 3

  5. Posted

    Hi, I hope no one ordered the 12mm swithes, I made my final measurements and 3D printed the buttons, the final height of the buttons is around 17mm.

    for those who may want to use the taller buttons instead the printed ones then this button from Digikey is the correct one: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-alcoswitch-switches/3-1825910-1/450-1643-ND/1632529

     

    For the tall buttons I would want to verify the diameter of the button, from the datasheets it looks like it's 2.8mm wide on the top. I could make the holes for the keypad at 3-3.2mm for it to fit.

     

    I will post final design soon

    • Like 1

  8. Posted · Edited by amiman99

    The top part printed fine and it fits well. Made a small mistake with the fire buttons, they are skewd up/left a bit. The start, pause and reset could be bigger. Other then that it's good.

     

     

     

    I do have technical problem.

    The analog joystick is not working properly. When I press left, it goes to up/left, and when I press right, it goes down/right. Up/down does not do anything.

     

    anyways to troubleshoot?

    EDIT: ME BIG DUMMY! Forgot to solder 3 pot pins on the joystick. I will do that first and see if it works.

    EDIT #2: It works fine! Tested with Robotron.

    post-24138-0-33350000-1541471954_thumb.jpg

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 1

  9. Posted

    yea that is realy good work the top looks hard to make i guess you are going to make the numbers s,p,r flex buttons(3 cut outs and spacer) and have open areas for the fire button key caps

     

    i hope you line up everything ok

     

    i guess you are going to print it face down with concave numbers(for colorfill) i would make it a flat face with right angle walls unlike the back

    I will not print labels on the shell, printing the first layer is ALWAYS pain in the butt. I may try to print the labels on the buttons and see how it looks.

    In the future, for the ones who use the taller buttons, maybe we can somehow stamp in the labels?

     

    I'm reusing the back shell for the front, to make it smooth, the right angles may not be comfortable to hold. I could experiment later on with right angles on the top shell.

     

    I don't understand this statement: "s,p,r flex buttons(3 cut outs and spacer) and have open areas for the fire button key caps" (s,p,r = start, pause, reset)

  10. Posted

    Animan99, that case looks really cool! I hope you can do a writeup someday on 3D printing. It's something I've never had the time (or the equipment) to get started in.

     

    DrVenkman, I have more pcboards on hand now.

     

    Scott

    I have a full page of tips and tricks for my ANET A8 3D printer. Some people hate the A8 and some love this printer, I love it. It's not for ordinary people, but for us tinkerers it's fine.

    It's a cheap printer that you need to assemble it yourself.

  12. Posted

     

    I'm confused - do you plan to 3D print buttons or use the ones from Digikey? Or do you mean, just print the ones for yourself since you already built your controller, but others could use the taller buttons? That would make sense.

    That said, if you finish your models and they print/work well, I'd actually be up for building two new boards (presuming Scott makes them continuously available) with taller buttons, and then having some shells printed to fit. :)

    I will make both sets, one for us who already made the boards with small buttons, and another with tall buttons.

    The tall button design is more elegant / professional looking.

    However, I will make the 2 fire buttons custom so they can be wider (about 12mm radius) and more comfortable to play with, unless, someone finds taller and wider buttons that fit in those boards.

    • Like 1

  13. Posted

    I think I will 3D print the buttons, because I can have them at required length.

    The problem with buttons is that they have to be at a certain height, and the height is determined by the analog joystick.

    The hole for the analog joystick needs to be a little bit wider then the top of the joystick which determines the height of the to shell, and the buttons.

     

    So, the height of the buttons needs to be around 12mm, so this button might be perfect https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-alcoswitch-switches/2-1825910-7/450-1642-ND, it's too bad I soldered mine already.

     

    As far as the left/right configuration. I made a drawing in FreeCAD of the button layout that can be flipped and then subtract the holes in the shell.

    • Like 1

  16. Posted

    Ok, so I got my parts and it's a work in progress, but the capacitor location is not marked, so I don't know where they go.

    Maybe in the next PCB revision C1-C4 could be marked. I'm thinking that the CAPs below START button are 0.22uF, is that correct?

     

     

    Also, I see a problem designing a 3D case for the joystick. The problem I see is the multiple location and size of the buttons, and left/right configuration.

    I soldered mine same way as @DrVenkman, so the case will be designed as such. (for now...)

     

    I'm still waiting on my programmer.

  18. Posted

    So, it looks like Digi-Key charges $50+ to program your chip, and it looks like I have to do it myself.

     

    I have some questions programming the chip.

    Can I use this programmer? https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-ATMEGA8-Programmer-USBasp-Cable/dp/B00AX4WQ00/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=K9R750SP9EYW4QCF0BRQ

    Do I program the chip directly on the board using the header?

    The cable has 10 positions, but the header has 6, how do I connect it to the programmer?, pictures would be nice.

     

    Thanks

  19. Posted

     

    If you live in San Antonio, TX you can simply order "a loose kit" from digikey. You still need to program the attiny chip. Read through smbaker's webpage for the controller and this thread. someone mentioned digikey can do this for a price, but I have no information on that. You can get this information straight from smbaker's webpage if you read it, but I spent 5 minutes and did the work for you. You can save this as a CSV file and import it into a BOM at digikey. Or just spend the 5 minutes and type it into the digikey website yourself:

     

    "Digi-Key Part Number","Customer Reference","Quantity"

    "490-7533-1-ND","C1,C2 0.22uF Monolithic Ceramic Capacitor","2"

    "399-4264-ND","C3,C4 0.1uF Monolithic Ceramic Capacitor","2"

    "S2012EC-20-ND","JP1 2×2 header (cut to size)","1"

    "S1012EC-40-ND","JP2, JP4","1"

    "S9337-ND","SH1-SH5","5"

    "MCP42100-I/P-ND","U$2 MCP42100","1"

    "SW405-ND","U$1,U$6,U$22-U$27","2"

    "SW891-ND","CAP1, CAP2 Cap for fire button","2"

    "450-1649-ND","U$7-U$18 Tactile switch, white (qty 12)","12"

    "450-1804-ND","U$19-U$21 Tactile switch, red (qty 3)","3"

    "1568-1526-ND","U1,U2 Sparkfun thumbstick (only populate 1)","1"

    "ATTINY85-20PU-ND","U3 ATTINY85 Microcontroller","1"

    "AE10929-ND","X1 F-5200-CON Female DB15","1"

    "A120347-ND","4 PIN PDIP IC SOCKET","1"

    "A120348-ND","14 PIN PDIP IC SOCKET","1"

    Let me try, I never ordered from Digikey before.

  20. Posted

     

    ...

    Assuming someone with 3D modeling skills is interested in designing such a shell, the top will be interesting.

    ...

    If someone could sell me at least a loose kit (I could solder it myself), then I could try to create 3D case for it.

    I'll release the design for free, maybe post it on Thingiverse.

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