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amiman99

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Posts posted by amiman99


  1. Just now, Zoyous said:

    Oh, I see. That's cool! But it also looks like Arcade1up is going to start selling PCBs directly... they have a page for them now, but it looks like they all say "Notify Me" rather than being available right now. Ebay is probably the way to go to get the better price, but it's cool that A1up is also going to do that.

    This mostly means that they sold out. At the beginning they had some for sale, but then became Notify Me.

    Ebay is the way to go. Do a search for "Arcade1up PCB" and save the search, then you can be notified everyday of new listings. If you are looking for something specific, then add name of the game. I got good deals that way.

     

     

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  2. 2 hours ago, Goochman said:

    I assume the A1U tables you cannot add additional tables to it?  Thats the nice thinkg about the Atgames one.  A1U def seems to have gotten the bigger and more popular tables though which means Atgames prob would be able to get them.

    I hope you can swap board from other pinballs, that way you can have more tables.

    I'm doing that with my Arcade1up cabinet. I get a PCB and Control and swap them once in awhile.

    • Like 1

  3. Is AtGames pinball screen recessed or is it flush with the glass?

     

    I like the Arcade1up better, because the screen is lower inside the cabinet.

    I was playing arcade LCD pinball in one of the arcades in Las Vegas, and the pinball screen was flush with glass. Playing like that felt different, and I did not enjoyed it as much. Something was off. 

     

    I would like to try them in person before spending the money.

     

    • Like 1

  4. Did you had Amigas before or you are 100% newbie? If you are new to Amigas, then it will be harder to troubleshoot.

     

    A2000 #1: Look at the mouse connctor, see if some pins are pushed in. Check 5v on db9 connector. Check pin 7 at 5v and 8 gnd. https://old.pinouts.ru/InputCables/AmigaMouseJoy_pinout.shtml

     

    A2000 #3: Blue screen, check custom chipset, maybe push them in? Remove all cards and see if it boots. 

    Amiga boot error code colours:

    Red - An error in the Kickstart rom as detected.

    Green - An error in the Chip Ram was detected.

    Blue - An error in the custom chip set was detected.

    Yellow - The CPU encountered an error before the system's error-trapping code (the code the calls up the Guru) was in place.

    Black - No CPU detected.

     

     

    A4000 "Please insert volume WDH1 in any drive." it means some script is looking for a missing partition or missing HD. Check under S folder for startup-sequence or user-startup. Open them in a text editor and see if anything references the WHD1.

     

    A4000T check is cpu card is present, or loose.

     


  5. On 10/4/2020 at 1:11 AM, Loafer said:

    It’s a fair point to suggest there is way better value for the Xbox series X.  
     

    In saying that we are talking about 500gb difference between the two.  Anyone who feels they will need to add another 1 TB will likely feel they need to do so for the series X as well, maybe just a bit quicker. For this reason I don’t feel you will spend less money on the series X in the long run

    Looks like the difference between X and S is more then that.

    I just checked MS website to see the comparison, and one big difference I saw was in performance. The X is 12 TFLOPS and S is 4 TFLOPS, plus no BD drive on S, and lower resolution games.

    https://www.xbox.com/en-US/consoles/compare


  6. Hi, I'm converting Pole Position II carts for use with my EEPROMs. Using this link: https://www.digitpress.com/library/techdocs/7800_Eprom_cart.pdf

     

    I was able to convert 2 carts using  HD74LS04 HEX inverter (old stock from Radio Shack) and they work fine. I run out, and got some more HEX converters, but the P/N is SN74LS04N. Using datasheets they are the same, but in real life they are not working. I have black screen when booting with cart. I verified the chip in breadboard to make sure is inverting the signal.

    The document above is using SN74LS04N chips, so it should work.

    What gives?

    Anyone has some idea?

    Thanks

     

    Edit: I tried Radio Shack NAND gate chip 74ls00 and tied 2 inputs to make it an inverter and it works fine also.

     


  7. You need to lower your expectations.

    Condition that you describe it would cost you pretty money, if someone is willing to sell it.

    Yellowing of the case is inevitable, so once in a while you need to do Retrobright with peroxide, or just get used to the new color.

    Recapping of A500 does not need to be done, it's useful, but not really necessary, unless you have a problem. The models that really need recapping are A600, A1200, A4000 and CD32, all have SMD capacitors that will leak.

    There are no "new" floppy drives, all of them are at least 30 years old, so you will not know how long it will last. 

     

    I would also add to your list a refurbished keyboard. Most keyboards on A500 use plastic membrane that gets bad over time. Make sure that keyboard is fully tested or new membrane installed. The have a new thin PCB replacement membrane that will not rot.

     

    Places to look for are: EAB http://eab.abime.net/forumdisplay.php?f=25

    Amibay, sometimes hard to get in: http://www.amibay.com/forumdisplay.php?24-Amiga

    Amiga.org https://forum.amiga.org/index.php?PHPSESSID=0k48blk2nl2ocjd0o3hdbmg324&board=17.0

     

    Good luck.

     

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  8. Replying to original question, I would choose 3 computers:

    Atari 800 and similar

    C64

    Amiga 500

     

    Atari 800 and family with SIO2SD, easy to load and play games, sub $200 for both devices.

    C64 with floppy emulator boards, too many to list, $150 to $200 for both.

    Amiga 500 with GOTEK drive and RF adapter, plenty of games, easy load. $250 and up, depends on a week and how lucky you are.

     

     

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