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desiv

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Everything posted by desiv

  1. Got my cracked windshield replaced yesterday.  I asked the guy and I could drive it after an hour or two, for the glue (or whatever he called it to dry).  Nice, that it seals that quickly..
    And then he said, make sure to leave the tape on the windshield for a day or two..
    er....
    If the glue is dry, why does it need the tape?
    If the tape is needed, doesn't that imply the glue isn't really holding...  
    hmmm...

    1. Keatah

      Keatah

      There are adhesives that need to cure more slowly and evenly. Which would imply it's not ready to drive just yet.

    2. GoldLeader

      GoldLeader

      Just drive the other one.

  2. Wow!  A belated Christmas present from my brother just showed up.  Replica 1 Apple 1 clone kit...  Wow...

    1. RetroB1977

      RetroB1977

      I have one too! A Replica 1 Plus. :)

  3. Looks like one of our software vendors just added a feature the might replace a licensed (i.e. costs a lot of money) feature from another one of our vendors.  Something they added just as "new features" so it won't cost us any more...  Obviously have to test and such, but..  Nice...

  4. To be fair, there are some very fun versions of Battlezone that don't have vector graphics...
  5. Yeah, I checked too and the with shipping can take them up there... Too bad, before the last couple of years I wonder how many of those I might have seen in a Goodwill and not picked up cheap??? <sigh> Oh well, the Europad has been decent for me. Although I am old school and prefer actual joysticks, so I will be keeping my eyes out for the Radicas...
  6. Tell that to Bill Shakespeare. Yeah, he and I were tight like that... I remember when he said, "You homie, tho canst call me Bill." Sorry , anyway, it would be interesting to note any color differences. I know in the Amiga forums I'm in, there is a significant NTSC/PAL diversion and I've heard the phrase "NTSC stands for Never The Same Colour" multiple times. I am used to the speed issue, cutting off of the bottom of the screen, and/or the lack of color trying to display PAL on an NTSC CRT (composite). But I'm not as familiar with differences in colors. Might be nice to see some side by side images to see what one side is missing and finding out which was "intended."
  7. Does anyone (I haven't found one yet, but...) have an STL/3D model for the cartridge port guide for the Atari 400? Mine's a bit rough (the tabs holding it to the board are snapped off, etc..)... Just wondering... I could try to design my own, but my skill level is what I can do with Tinkercad right now.
  8. desiv

    Multicart Wars

    I agree and... er.. what? Has it been 16 years?? Really???
  9. Just playing with DOS 2.5 a bit (really new, only used it for about an hour...). I do have the really short (12 page) pdf manual open. I have been playing with using Altirra to copy files to a copy of the 2.5 disk image. One thing I noticed and didn't see a description of in the manual was that some of the filenames of the files I copied have <> around them and others don't. So I see a listing when I type A and hit enter that looks like: * DOS SYS 037 * DUP SYS 042 D2 037 ATINV 132 CHPLFT 253 <SCOBRA> 066 <SHAMUS> 123 Just wondering why some of them have the <> around the names. Those don't show up in the Altirra Disk Explorer and I've tried renaming the files and some of them just have those <>. Doesn't seem to be causing an issue, so it is just something I was wondering... Thanx
  10. OK, finally finished up the mod I did ages ago... What did I need to finish? Well, I didn't have a 3D printer back then, so the 3 RCA jacks (Yeah, I went for 3 and mirrored left/right audio; it's been good for me for years) were just help in place with a piece of plastic I had cut and drilled some holes into... But a while ago after I got my 3D Printer, I found this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4235463 It is for 2 RCA jacks and says no cut, but I had already cut (sorry.. it was a long time ago), so I just modded it a bit for 3 RCA jacks and finally got around to printing and installing it.... Went easier than I had thought. The two holes at the back, that matched up to the two holes that used to hold the RF case in place, instead of using two screws, I used a thick piece of wire, ran it thru the holes and soldered it in. Held great. One plus (other than looking much nicer than my cheapo cut plastic) is that there is a screw in the case where my middle RCA jack is, and with my original mod, the RCA jacks stuck out pretty far and that screw was barely accessible... The new mod had the RCA jacks recessed, so access to that case screw is perfect. 7800 RCA jacks by Desi Villaescusa, on Flickr
  11. Yep... I fully admit (and did in my post) that it was my mistake... I posted my mistake here intentionally to let others know, just in case... As an aside, nice that RespeQT also works on older machines. I was able to load it up on an old XP netbook I still have around, so I don't always have to take my laptop downstairs for this.
  12. Initial experiences with RespeQT. I just built up my SIO2PCviaUSB recently. Since I didn't totally know what I was doing, I was poking around. For the most part, it was working great. I found several games that didn't work. I fired up an Atari emulator and set it for Atari 800 - 48k and tried them. Several of them also didn't work there, and I found out they were 64k games. No problem. But a few of the games worked in the emulator. So I started trying some things. I loaded AspeQT, and.. they worked... Hmmm.. As the code was the same before they forked, I am guessing it is some setting difference or that I messed up (it was both by the way). First thing I found out was that my serial adapter likes 19,200 and 38,400, but not 57,600. Good to know! But I still had one game that wasn't working, even at 19,200 in RespeQT... So I kept comparing, and... Apparently at some time in my testing, I clicked Trailing Edge. When I deselected that, that game started working too! So, lesson is.. RespeQT has too many options!!! Kidding!! Lesson for me is to pay attention when I am changing settings, but to remember to try them... As for the speed, 38,400 is plenty fast enough for me on my 48k Atari 400, so I'm not too bothered by that. Probably my cheap FTDI clone... Thanx for the software.... It's impressive...
  13. Here's my recent build: SIO2USB-1 by Desi Villaescusa, on Flickr (Note: The hot glue is holding in some plastic brackets to hold in my board, not the board itself. The case I found on Thingiverse didn't fit my board exactly, and there is something about the STL files I downloaded that print fine, but don't look good when I load them into Tinkercad to edit them. (I have been playing with Meshmixer to try to get something I can edit). Here it is in the case and attached to the 400: SIO2USB-2 by Desi Villaescusa, on Flickr Seems to work fine so far... I don't plan on daisy chaining it, so no need to order any diodes at this time.
  14. Glad this is in process... I'm fine with new boxed games for some systems, but for others I'm mostly BIN only. For space reasons... But I'd love to be able to give the appropriate people something for those... I just don't have room for all the boxes and such... I also don't have a problem with a delayed BIN option. New game is available for 6 months (or whatever) as a boxed only situation. And then we can get the BIN option after that. That might be good for sales if some people are worried about that hurting boxed sales? Either way, I'm patient. Whenever you get to it Albert. I know you have a LOT of things on your plate!!!! Thanx!
  15. Did you really ask if something attached to a retro computer is necessary? None of this is necessary... The retro computer isn't necessary. That's not why we do this... Now, that feature might not appeal to you, and that's fine. But I'm sure it appeals to others, and that's also fine. As for Fujinet for me, I'm thinking about it... Just got my 400 going recently. Started with some carts. Last week I set up my SIO2<insert something here> so I can load images to it. Just some dupont jumpers decapped on the SIO side to fit hooked to the bare USB/Serial board for now. I've ordered some real pins and will print an SIO plug case when they show up. That is great and will keep me going for a while... That said, FujiNet is tempting... Not having to take my laptop downstairs would be nice. And, as for this about BBSes: I actually do some BBSing with my Amiga and Apple II from time to time... So, as it was in High School, I am still no one. But not sure if I want to do that with my 400... So FujiNet is, for now, just a project on my radar...
  16. Finally (OK, I only got it two weeks ago. But I got it the day we had to leave for a week, so only just got some time) got my board installed. Works great! 37(something something something) bytes free in BASIC... Two important points. 1: Double check your (my) soldering. I installed my first wire, then recounted pins and ... I had miscounted the first time. Ooops.. So I had to applied the wire 1 pin off. Not sure how I managed that, but I always triple check by counting, so got it and moved it... 2: For some weird reason, typing "PRINT FRE(0)" won't give you any results if you do it in MEMO PAD... In BASIC tho, it worked great... (Hey, I'm still new to Atari!!!) Thanx tf_hh!!! Now I need to work on my SIO2USB cable (I know, FujiNET is out there...) to actually test some 48k games.
  17. Thanx! And I found a thread that I didn't find earlier when searching that had some for testing. Well, update. I was able to successfully test 3 things. My first (before I thought about it) test was a 16k XL BASIC file that didn't work. But that is what got me here thinking I should have picked something simpler. So, I needed to erase my first attempt. Did that (just around 30 minutes. That seemed to be a fairly common suggestion for duration..). That was a successful test of my UV eraser. Then I took one of the ROMs from that other thread and burned them using the XGPro software. That said it was successful, which was a good sign. So that was a successful test of my TL866II. Then I put that in the new cart and tried the new program and it worked. And that was my 3rd success, of the PixelsPast board. So, it really is that simple with the PixelsPast board. I was worried about needing to possibly flip files from LSB to MSB or vice versa or something like that... But nope, it just worked! Another thing to test later, just for fun, is to take an 8k ROM file, double it to make a 16k file, and then try that. I read that might work. Yeah, I could get an 8K eprom (and another pixelspast board or mod the one I have, and probably will do one of those eventually), but where's the fun in that?
  18. Hijacking this older thread with a similar question... Not too long ago, I picked up a TL866II (eventually to burn some Amiga kickstarts, but I got Atari sidetracked.. ;-). I hadn't used it. (Well, I used it to test a couple of chips and read an eprom I had in a Apple II printer card ;-). I got a 400 recently and just got that working. Got some carts and they work, so that's good! I also ordered a pixelspast 16k eeprom and cart (preassembled, but with no ROM burned) and was hoping to try it out. I didn't realize how many things were actually 8k. (OK, I've only just started looking) I'd like to be able to test burning a rom, but as this is my first attempt??? Any recommendations on what would be a good choice for a 16k ROM to try? Is there anything special I need to do? (I see that there are some CAR files that have headers that I guess I would have to strip?) Any pointers to a site that might have a ROM I can test? I am totally fine with someone pointing to a freeware 16k rom if there is one out there... I'm just looking for something to test to see if I can get it to work. Thanx
  19. Well, I wouldn't say what I said was inaccurate, as I started with: "If the machine is using ATASCII..." So I wasn't saying it did use ATASCII.
  20. If the machine is using ATASCII on the Atari (I just got my 400 running and it is only 16k; 48k/52k card on the way, so I haven't tried it yet) and we wanted to keep to a play on words, then instead of Attack of the PETSCII Robots, on the Atari the name could be shortened to: ATTACKSCII ROBOTS
  21. Actually, it is a play on words, from early on: Jump to about 5:23 to hear him mention the name: Pesky/PETSCII.
  22. Just a quick update. I still haven't fixed (or tried to fix) the power board yet. There's some more edumacatin I need to do so I understand more about what's involved. But I got the replacement power board that I had ordered, and when I hooked it up, it's power LED lit up when I turned it on. So I plugged in the RF cord (actually one from an Odyssey 2 I had; the one that came with the 400 was chewed up), went downstairs to the CRT TV that has my Aquarius hooked up, hooked it all up, and powered it on, and it looks like everything works... That surprised me... I was kind of expecting the RAM to be dead or something, but nope. Memo pad came up. And I can type and it looks like the keys are working (at least the ones I tried), and there are sounds when I hit the keys. I can't do any more testing, as I don't even have a BASIC cart. But, that has me surprised. I still have fixing that power board on my future project list, and I'll report back when I get to that stage.
  23. Great to see!!! And those all look great! Love GnG, but have to admit... It is right there with Defender as a game I enjoy playing, and die very very (could probably throw in a few more very's) quickly at....
  24. We agree that this is all a bit beyond me. I'm making too many mistakes... Thanx all...
  25. Thanx, I have kind of given up on this repair for the short term. The diagnosis is beyond me at this time... And I don't seem to have a steady enough hand to probe voltages without slipping and causing more damage. 😞 I did that again when probing, just re-validating some of the voltages I had before, and my probe slipped on the 5v voltage regulator. Saw a small spark. 😞 I have ordered some "clip on" probes for future projects. So I can clip them on to what I want to test, while powered off, then power on and test on the clips. I should be less likely to have the probe points slip off doing that. I am also looking at getting some better probes, but not yet sure what type so still thinking about that... Anyway, I noticed when powered off that I was getting continuity on the input and the output of the voltage regulator. That doesn't seem right to me, so was thinking I killed it when I slipped and it sparked. I unsoldered it, but the regulator I removed didn't have connectivity from input to output. Then I checked continuity on the board itself and there is still continuity on the input and output lines without a voltage regulator installed. I don't see that on the 12V regulator... So I am thinking that's a sign something is shorting or something... But my knowledge of electronics isn't good enough to know if that might be expected or where I should be looking... So, I ordered a replacement known-working power board to see what happens. I still don't expect the 400 to work. I am thinking whatever caused the power board to blow probably did some other damage. I still think the LED is dead and those things seem to generally last forever. So I wonder what killed it (if its dead), and what other damage it did. But we'll see... I'll still poke at it over time, and it will be good to have a working one for some comparisons. But I really think I need to have a better understanding of electronics first. I think of the 400 power board as fairly basic electronics and well documented, so I think it's a good board for me to understand how it works, but I'm just not there yet. Planning on finding some basic electronics vids to see if I can get a better handle on it. And I think I'll look for an electronics forum where I can ask questions that are at a beginner level. As for the RAM, there's a 16k board in there now. Which is part of the reason I don't expect it to work with a good power board. I seem to remember that tri-voltage chips are prone to dying as a result of voltage issues... Depending on the results when I get the new power board, I'm considering getting a 48k board eventually anyway. I'll look up the mod you mentioned... Thanx
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