-
Content Count
2,124 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Posts posted by disjaukifa
-
-
There is an IDE out there. For use with batari basic.
Well yeah I know that . . . even though I don't use it . . . I guess what I meant was an IDE provided by Atari. For example, Apple provides Developer Tools for the iPhone/iPod Touch. I guess that is what I was thinking of an official Atari IDE vs a homebrew created IDE (which I think works great and everything, but it had to develop instead of being released with the system!!!)
-Disjaukifa
-
If you get around to publishing this here on at the AtariAge store as a cartridge you can put my name down for one!!!
-Disjaukifa
You bet.

Can I get an autographed copy
?-Disjaukifa
-
I guess I should proofread better before I hit that "post" button.
You sure have hit the ground running with batari Basic.
I like this game. I'm going to have to try it out with a real joystick.
Out of curiosity what did you mean by: "I guess I should proofread better before I hit that "post" button.
"?Thanks for posting a reply!!! Always helps motivate me to keep on programming!!! I'm thinking about changing the game play here and there. I would love for the other atomic matter to bounce around but I have gotten to figuring out how to do that yet. I left the straight line missile more to see if the game would be fun to play or not.
I'm glad you enjoyed what I have so far, I need to make a finishing screen for if you finish, just haven't gotten around to it yet. I'm trying to decide if I want to use the mutlisprite kernel or not. I know it gives you a much cleaner playfield, even though it has to be symmetrical, which I think this game would highly benefit from. What do you think?
I also to want to play the game with a joystick, keyboard is just not the same and my reaction time is slower (don't I sound like a geek).
Thanks for posting accousticguitar!!!!
-Disjaukifa
-
You don't need to dremel! Just switch out the top parts. Personally, the vader model seems cheaper since they just left the wood grain off.I think they are Down on the bottom part, and 4 switcher is more up towards the top part.
-Dylan
So much for doing it without having to Dremel the Atari 2600s . . . I really thought that was going to work too!!!
-Disjaukifa
Not to change the topic but why is it called the Darth Vader anyway??? All it really is a Black Atari 2600, which they were trying to get out of the 70's wood grain look. Or is there some neat piece of trivia behind it that I have completely missed?
-Disjaukifa
-
An ARM7 based super 2600 would be great and surely it had to be retro compatible with 2600 library. Technically, I would expect
:- a graphic chip with 64 players, [email protected] colours (not more powerful, right to be a nostalgia product)
- a pokey derived chip with 16 channels and 4 noise programmable channels
- 64k internal ram and 512k addressable rom space (at least 64k direct rom addressing)
- a classic 2600 cart port with some pins dedicated to custom chips on cart (not sure on pin availability)
- a 232/485 serial port for developing and netgaming
- a jtag port for developing
- an open source IDE for hobbists and developers
I would like to see it bundled with a "Solaris 2010" or a "Super Enduro" or a "Crystal Castles +" and surely I'd pay $100 for the platform and $25 each game.

I can't agree with your last bulletin point enough. I really hate how restrictive todays consoles are. I think it one of the reason I love the Atari 2600 so much, really anybody can program homebrew for it and its NOT frowned on.
I would love to see a console that did the 2600, 5200, and 7800, let you do your own game dev and homebrew without having to hack the @(#@*#&@(* thing. Also I think it would be nice if to have hardware that allow for more complicated and graphically complex games.
But that has all be said. I would just love a commercially heard of system, be it the Atari 15600, that encouraged homebrew games . . . I think it would be a huge success!!!
-Disjaukifa
-
All things being equal and the 5200 being 100% functional I'd still choose the 2600 sticks for comfort and ease of use.
Agreed, I've used 5200 controllers before and I just don't like them as much as the good ole CX-40.
-Disjaukifa
-
Paypal dispute under way. will keep you posted.
What do you think the value of the box alone is?? it looks like it may have been a 7/10 condition before it was posted.
Well can you give us a link to the auction? I would like to see this item in the auction and then what it looked like when it got to you.
Agreed its hard to hell without pictures. If its a collectible it can be for a good portion of the auction however like Videogamecollector123 said pictures would help.
-Disjaukifa
-
I think they are Down on the bottom part, and 4 switcher is more up towards the top part.
-Dylan
So much for doing it without having to Dremel the Atari 2600s . . . I really thought that was going to work too!!!
-Disjaukifa
-
Hey guys,
I know I just start a thread on Earth Invaders which I am going to continue to work on, however yesterday I played accousticguitar's game "Miss It" after he made a comment in another of my threads about never having made a game that used missiles:
I'm made two games in batari Basic and I have yet to fire a missile. I guess I'm just non-violent.

Well being frustrated with the stupidity of how I programmed Earth Invaders (NO subroutines . . . a complete nightmare) I just wanted to play some fun Atari games, so I went checked out accousticguitar's Miss It. If you haven't played it yet, you need to its completely addicting!!! Here is a link Miss It!
Anyways what got me about accousticguitar's game was how simple the game and yet just how addicting it was. Well I went to bed last night and no kidding at about 3:30 am I woke up with an idea for a game called Atomic Meltdown. I wrote down my idea at 3:30 and went back to sleep because I didn't want to forget. Well all day today I had this game messing around in my head, when I got home today I started programming it and in a matter of hours (less than 6) I have the basis what I feel has the possibility of being a very fun and addicting game.
I pulled two elements from accousticguitar's Miss It game, mainly you don't want to hit anything and your score is determined by how long you last. Original my goal was for it to be a 2K game, however I have add some animation which I feel makes Atomic Meltdown better so now its going to be a 4K game and possible 8K game because of ideas I have.
Well to give you an idea how much this was in my head today, I have already come up with the Atari Label and the premise behind the game is this:
"A nuclear reactor core stabilizer and containment field has failed unexpectedly and you, the technician, have to manually stabilize the atomic matter until containment field can be initialized. The containment walls will start enclosing around the atomic matter as the containment field is brought back online. However because the containment field is down, other random atomic matter is being project around the reactor core. The manual stabilizers have not been calibrated on schedule so they do not stabilize the atomic matter correctly which has resulted in the atomic matter to jitter around. If two pieces of atomic matter collide or if the atomic matter collides with the walls before the containment field has been initialized, then the whole nuclear reactor wild explode."


I know the label is simple but I like it
.I am going to be changing and modifying stuff but I feel that the core of the game is pretty solid. If you switch your Atari 2600 or Stella (not sure how to do it in Stella) to Difficult A (Pro) then the game gets harder, however I have not really tested it out yet so no promises on it working correctly.
Anyways this game is not down yet, but I like to think it is well on its way. I have attached the binary. Download it and play it and let me know what you think!!!!
Thanks
Disjaukifa
-
If one has a little ingenuity, insperation, (and a good dremel, of course) just about any case mod is possible.
Or you can just paint it black

Hey guys correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't the panel with the switches just "pop" out? I know on my Heavy Sixer and my Light 4 switch the panel that the switchs go trough just pops off, I don't see why you couldn't combine a Darth Vader 4 switch with a Heavy Sixer
.HAHAHA
Dark Vader Sixer and the Heavy Four banger!!!
-Disjaukifa
Wow didn't really think of that, but the controller ports are positioned differently as I notice when I'm playing my 4 & 6 switchers aren't they. Or is that just me
?-Dylan
AHHH I totally forgot about the different controller ports . . . where are the ports on the Light Sixer?
-Disjaukifa
-
If one has a little ingenuity, insperation, (and a good dremel, of course) just about any case mod is possible.
Or you can just paint it black

Hey guys correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't the panel with the switches just "pop" out? I know on my Heavy Sixer and my Light 4 switch the panel that the switchs go trough just pops off, I don't see why you couldn't combine a Darth Vader 4 switch with a Heavy Sixer
.HAHAHA
Dark Vader Sixer and the Heavy Four banger!!!
-Disjaukifa
-
I am very interested to see how you did that.NUSIZ0/NUSIZ1 is the key.

I know I have said this before but I really really need to read up on NUSIZ0 and NUSIZ1, sounds like they are the solution to alot of my issues I am having with Earth Invaders.
-Disjaukifa
-
Let me repost my Invaders demo. This uses the standard kernel and has no flicker. Feel free to use parts of this code in your own games.
Hey Batari,
Thanks for the code sample, I will have to look at it, I am very interested to see how you did that. I'm in the middle on a re-write at the moment because I didn't know what I was doing
.-Disjaukifa
-
PM SENT!
-Dylan
SOLD!!!!
-
SOLD SOLD SOLD
I've got some stuff just taking up space that I am sure someone wants so I'm selling some of my stuff that I don't use. Up for sale is an Atari 2600 Jr Console only (No controller or plugs . . . I just don't have enough, I only have one set somehow).
The console has been mostly cleaned and it works perfectly. Here are some pictures:
I have done some cleaning to this unit. I picked it up at a yard sale with some other atari games. The console works great, I just don't use it and I really don't have the room for it. I only use my Heavy Sixer
.If you have any questions please feel free to ask and I will get back you as soon as I can
Make an offer!!!
Thanks
Disjaukifa
-
Still have some of these as of this writing. Albert has them and will be selling them when he returns to Texas. PM me to reserve one.
Price is $79.95 + $5 shipping in USA and Canada, $10 elsewhere.
Hey Batari, how did they do at the Expo? I keep waiting to hear, but nothing has been posted.
-Disjaukifa
-
Here are some more pictures:
enjoy,
charles
I really enjoyed the pictures, thanks for posting them!!
-Disjaukifa
-
Combat is not rare, far from it. THe people who advertise them as rare either possess no idea of their worth at all or are trying to fleece the gullible from their hard earned money

Haven't you heard the good word friends? Everything is 'rare' on ePay

I wish you there was system for reported an auction for a misguiding title and then having ebay investigate . . . I would cancel so many auctions.
-Disjaukifa
-
That's messed up...
Here's some advice for sellers:
-
- Please ship items within 24 hours of receiving payment.
- Be prepared to ship the item when you list it for auction. Don't delay shipment because "I ran out of boxes/supplies."
- If you need to ship an item with signature confirmation, please ship USPS so I do not have to drive 20 miles to the nearest FedEx/UPS facility to pick it up. At least, work with the buyer on which service would be suitable.
- If you ship arcade cabinet artwork, roll the item up into a sturdy tube.
Depending on how heavy something is I have wrapped it in what I call shipping paper wrapped around it and taped (the paper on itself) and then put scrunched up newspaper all around it in a box with at least 3 ~ 5 inches on each side and I have never had anyone complain. Its cheaper than buying bubble wrap, however if its heavy enough I do buy bubble wrap for it. And I always put something that came in an original box in a new box! I have yet to have anyone complain or tell me something was broken!!! It just depends on what you are shipping, and how much it ways, but regardless you need a box with at least 3 ~ 5 inchs of space on EVERY* side of the item to insure no damage.
-Disjaukifa
-
-
Those pictures are part of a larger set that will appear with a nice write up in ClassicVGM #3.
This really was an excellent show, and probably the nicest group of people I've ever met. My only regret was not being able to spend more time. Met Al, Batari, Rick Weis, and many others.
Note Al's nice OS X desktop!
I was trying out my new zoom lens, and it rocks. Got that from at least 15 feet away.Wow I really wished I hadn't missed it now ( I live in Virginia . . . long drive). Hey Albert, do you think you can send me that background? I have the exact same MacBook!!! Well same shell at least
.-Disjaukifa
-
I was just browsing a little on eBay and someone lists Combat for the 2600 as rare ... I've seen pictures from people using all their Combat carts as wall paper ... Is that the reason? All of them now spent as wallpaper and now there's no carts left to play? Hmmmmm ... Weird
Take Atarian care
Combat is not rare, far from it. THe people who advertise them as rare either possess no idea of their worth at all or are trying to fleece the gullible from their hard earned money

Depending on how heavy something is I have wrapped it in what I call shipping paper wrapped around it and taped (the paper on itself) and then put scrunched up newspaper all around it in a box with at least 3 ~ 5 inches on each side and I have never had anyone complain. Its cheaper than buying bubble wrap, however if its heavy enough I do buy bubble wrap for it. And I always put something that came in an original box in a new box!
Wrong thread!!! What I was going to say is I now just search for the rarity rating from here on the site, be it R8, R6, etc on ebay. That is how I know if something is really rare or not on ebay.
If you filter through the crap on ebay you can get some really good deals!
-Disjaukifa
-
The multisprite kernel actually uses the real P1 to draw all of the virtual P1 through P5 sprites. So any of the following will cause *some* flicker...
P1 P2
P2 P3
P3 P4
You are guaranteed to get no flicker in the following cases...
P0 P1
P0 P3
P0 P4
In the example you gave...
P1 P2 P3 P4 P5
P1 P2 P3 P4 P5
P1 P2 P3 P4 P5
...you'd probably get a whole lot of flicker.
If you're looking to recreate a Space Invaders pattern without flicker you need a custom kernel. This requires a deep understanding of assembly language and VCS internals.
You might instead try grouping your ships more organically or staggered vertically, and you also may want to use one of the virtual sprites for your ship instead of P0, since the other sprites won't frequently sit in a horizontal line with your ship. (though that will complicate collision detection)
Wow thanks for the writeup RevEng. that is all really good information to take into consideration. I posted this last night on my Earth Invaders thread, I am currently scrapping most of the code except for the player and enemy designs I have. I wrote everything in just the main loop of the program and when I tried to separate it into subroutines, I couldn't get anything to work.
I am not sure I want that many enemys on the screen at one, I was thinking about just have 4 of 5 and making them really difficult to defeat. After the information you just gave me, which is very informative, I think I will just have 4 ~ 5 ships on the screen.
Thanks
Disjaukifa
-
It's the other way around. The multisprites flicker when they're all in a horizontal line.
YYYY = lots of flicker
Y
Y
Y
Y = no flicker
Thank you RevEng!!! I thought I might have it backwards. I'm just one of those people that has to "see" it to understand it if you know what I mean.
Let me ask anyother question to go with the one you just answer. If I do the following will I have flicker?
P1 P2 P3 P4 P5
P1 P2 P3 P4 P5
P1 P2 P3 P4 P5
P1 P2 P3 P4 P5
P1 P2 P3 P4 P5
P1 being Player1 etc on the multisprite kernel. Since none of them are on the same horizontal line, it shouldn't flicker right?
Thanks
Disjaukifa
-
This is one of those games you really need a joystick for. I like playing in the middle of the screen where stuff is flying at me from all directions. That would be suicide with the arrow keys, at least for me.
Yeah, its really difficult, I'm happy with 63 since it was keyboard, but just joystick would make it so much easier to move. If you get around to publishing this here on at the AtariAge store as a cartridge you can put my name down for one!!!
-Disjaukifa

Atomic Meltdown <-- my new homebrew game
in batari Basic
Posted
Hey thanks for the response MausGames!
I have broken up your post to help me make sure I answer all of you questions and I have some questions of my own.
I guess what I mean by a cleaner play field is something that is more refined, and doesn't have the lines breaking it up, which will be fixed soon.
I will add the fire button to start and the if switchreset then reboot this afternoon. I actually have it set for when the game ends
.
Ok as I am really new to this (less than a week doing Batari Basic), I have two questions:
1st. How do I check how many scan lines my project has?
2nd. What is considered normal for game?
Yeah I was thinking about making it so that other particles bounce around. I have never used pfcolors and PF0 so I will need to do some reading to see exactly how that works!!
Really? I didn't realize you could do that, I need to go back in the other thread and see if anyone has an example of how to do that, that sounds very interesting.
I still thinking about just using the multisprite kernel as it produces a cleaner play field and a bigger play field. I am going to mess around with it this afternoon when I get home.
Thanks for the feedback guys!!!
Disjaukifa