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yell0w_lantern

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About yell0w_lantern

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    Dragonstomper
  • Birthday 10/01/1977

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  1. I wanted to try to re-wire a 3rd party SNES controller to use withe the C-64, Sega Master System, and 7800 The plan was to wire the Shoulder buttons for the 7800 (pins 5 and 9 wired through resistors to 8 with pin 6 on the other side of the switch) Y would be the standard fire button X would be wired to 'up' for C-64 games that use up to jump B would be wired as the 2nd Amiga button pins 9 (pot x) and 7 (VCC+5) A would be wired like a Sega Master System Button (pin 9) In the past, I've used switches to move things around but I'm wondering if I could simplify my life. Can I wire this up straight? Should I use diodes to prevent backflow on some of the wires? Should I scrap the idea and just go back to slide switches? Left Shoulder Right Shoulder Up X Left Right Y A Down B http://retro-bit.com/super-retro-wired-controller.html
  2. RF (or preferably composite) would minimize the number of extra things I would have to plug in and hook up every time I haul out the ST. I can use my GBS 8200 to run the ST on my flat screen and that works but the setup is bulky and I have even less room left oon the surge protector to plug in my external Gotek drive.
  3. I have a fairly early NTSC 520; there is no modulator and no hole in the case for one but the board appears to have a space for one and through holes for R, G, B, H-sync, V-sync, etc. So, does anyone know if a modulator can be successfully to one of these ST's?
  4. Yes, it's mostly working now. Occasionally, it goes unstable and freezes for some reason. Even so, I love it! I've always been a fan of this game.
  5. I can't seem to get this to work on my FlashROM99. I tried switching my RAM expansion from slow to fast but no difference. I just get a blue screen and the startup tone just keeps going.
  6. Hello. I have a 520 ST and I would like to build a composite circuit for this but my level of skill with electronics is only enough to follow cookbook-like directions. I found this zip but the schematic is in scd format and although I believe I found the site mentioned, setting up sdecode appears to involve some rather extensive downloads and updates. Does anyone have a regular image file of a composite cicuit or know how to more easily unpack a scd file? Note: I have a GBS8220 but I am looking to get this on to a regular TV and composite out will work for that AND give me a composite sync signal to use if I ever successfully a mod a CRT to accept analog RGB in. Thanks in advance. rgb2comp.zip
  7. Thank so much, vattari, the XOR did it! So ends 2 weeks of frustration! Time to get my floppy emulator warmed up.
  8. I can't for the life of me get the picture to stop rolling and show up reliably using the GBS 8220. Just linking H-sync and V-sync did not work. Using only H-sync did not work. There's no modulator so no C-sync over pin 2. I've read about AND, OR, and XOR gates as possibilities. Has anyone here gotten an earlier production 520ST working with the 8220? If so, what did you do? Did you use a logic gate of some kind? Thank you in advance.
  9. I got a full setup from my uncle a few years ago but never tried to hook it up until tonight. I got it from a white screen with rainbow blocks to a white screen with 19 bombs to GEMS within an hour. A little Deoxit and chip re-seating can go a long way apparently. 520 ST Rev B with TOS 1.04 and stock RAM Atari mouse Atari SC 1221 monitor with cable Atari disk drive Laser 3.5" floppy drive modified for the ST (I disassembled this to get the interface for use with my HXC) I understand Exxos sells a 1.5 booster and a 4mb RAM upgrade which will work even with this ST. I plan on gaming so should I move these up in my purchasing priority or will they not make too much of a difference? I will get them eventually even if they won't change game play a lot.
  10. Cookie Eaters https://csdb.dk/release/?id=22161
  11. Found a Class 4 and she's running now. Thanks!
  12. My new Final GROM arrived today but no matter what I do, the finalgrom option never appears for selection. I've tried a 16gb and a 4gb sandisk. I've tried single files on the disks. The LED never stops blinking about once per second. I even let it sit for 30 minutes and came back to the same thing and when I pressed a key, the only option was TI basic. Is there a loader or some other file I need in the SD card's root directory?
  13. I am working on a melted key CoCo 2. I changed the stock ram chips to 4164 chips fresh from Jameco. I jumpered the solder pads on either side of the w1 silkscreen. ?mem only shows 8k. I tried a second set of 4164s with the same result. Should I bother with a 3rd set of ram chips or might this be some other component causing the issue?
  14. My Sears Intv was horribly dark with the board from Turkey as well as the 2 or 3 mod boards I built.
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