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chad5200

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About chad5200

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    Chopper Commander

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    Male
  • Location
    Illinois

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  1. I'm bumping this because I did not realize that a new (final) version was released as noted in the first post. Bringing it to everyone's attention.
  2. Oh! I forgot! Here is a video of me Christmas 1983 opening my 835 modem present. My favorite childhood gift. This changed EVERYTHING!
  3. Currently trying to fix up my controllers. Is there a game or diagnostic program that uses all the buttons on the joystick so I can test them? I have an Atarimax USB Flash Cart so I am able to easily load any game/ROM. Thanks!
  4. Thank you! Much better! I like it. One game play suggestion... the MOAB is cool but I wish it wasn't a game ending event. Would be nice if you had maybe two "kill all" smart bombs and when those run out it is a MOAB. And maybe have it so you gain one smart bomb with every 1000 points or something like that.
  5. When I play, it seems that the paddle represents the middle building... and when turning the paddle clockwise, the player should move clockwise around the building... and when turning the paddle counter-clockwise, the player should move counter-clockwise around the building. In Warlords, for Player 1 and Player 2 it's much easier to get used to it because the player is only moving on two sides. But Player 3 and Player 4 both move the same direction as the paddle. Maybe you could make it an option that the Color/BW switch will reverse the paddle movements of the player for their choice?
  6. Always nice to see a new 2600 game! I just got a couple minutes to try out the NTSC version on a real 4-switch 2600. Couple things that need to be addressed: 1) My paddles are plugged into the Left port. But the game is not using the normal primary player-1 paddle. Instead, I have to use the normal secondary player-2 paddle. 2) The player moves the opposite direction that the paddle is turned. Meaning, when I turn the paddle clockwise, the player is moving counter-clockwise... and when I turn the paddle counter-clockwise the player is moving clockwise.
  7. I am looking for a schematic and/or service manual for the Atari 2800 / Sears Telegames II. If anyone has it, can you please post a link? Thanks!
  8. Problem solved! Well... it appears there really wasn't a problem with the 2600. I tried hooking it up to a different TV and the brightness is now displaying rock solid on that one. Both modern TV's hooked to Antenna In... the problematic one is a Vizio and the good one is a Samsung. I guess the Vizio just can't handle this particular 2600 like the Samsung can.
  9. Yep. I replaced A101 with a new 7805 Voltage Regulator. No change.
  10. I have a Light Sixer where the color/brightness is shifting sporadically. Here is a quick video of it. Most noticeable in the city up top. I am hooked up via the normal RF video cable (no composite mod on this system). I have replaced the following components: Switchboard: Replaced C103 with a new .22uf 100v mylar cap Replaced C106 with a new 2200uf 25v electrolytic cap Replaced A101 with a new 7805 Voltage Regulator Replaced C105 with a new 4.7uf 50v electrolytic cap Mainboard: Replaced C201 with a new 4.7uf 50v electrolytic cap I reseated the TIA and reflowed solder to all its pins. I also reflowed solder to the RF modulator and the interconnect between the boards. I have tried exercising/adjusting the color pot (which still works fine) and also the exercising the channel 3/4 switch, the Color/Black & White switch, and all switches in general. I also replaced the RF cable with a nice high quality RG6 cable. After doing all that, my overall picture is definitely better but the brightness shifting problem still persists as seen in the video. I know my power supply is good and I also have other 2600's that I have hooked to the same TV with no problem. Any thoughts on what else to try?
  11. Yep! Also, burnt orange. Just look at that carpet!
  12. Thread bump... found another set of old photos.
  13. I noticed that the metal shielding on my Sears Telegames Heavy Sixer bites into some of the traces on the circuit board. Is this normal and expected? Here is a picture where I have circled in red the places that it is biting into the circuit board.
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