icemanxp300

I'm not sure pressing harder is the problem because when I compare it to a normal nes pad or even a dogbone, the buttons appear to have the same pressure to them, and yes I did sand the back off. I know these are perfectly fine for what is expected. I think the real problem here is the cyclone housing moves the entire d-pad. That matters because if I am using a normal d-pad I can easily go from up to right instantly. Where as using the cyclone the entire housing moves so my pressure may be giving more up right instead of up then right if that makes sense. It gives the sensation of pressing harder because I have to put more effort into making the motions. On a normal gamepad the directional is incased so just getting light pressure on a direction causes that direction to make contact faster, since the directional can only go 4 ways, not 8. As far as the turbo button goes and keeps getting hit for me. I have big hands and this controller is quite small. It is only a problem on the A button. If the controller was a half inch bigger past the A my hands would have more room for my thumb to curve away from the A. Right now when I hold the controller and hit B, my thumb is angled slightly but when I push the A my thumb is directly over the turbo A and since that is a raised button it gets pushed easily when I push the A. If I were to ground down the turbo button so it was more concave then it likely would not be a problem as my thumb would recess in the concave dip. I'm sure this controller is great for some games and some people. My hands are just to big for it and I'm not use to it. I should also note I push the button w/the top part of my thumb under the nail, not the thicker part under the knuckle. So when I push the button in the turbo is getting pushed in by the thicker portion of my thumb. ...

They are ok but my biggest complaint is like playing Mario, I always get short jumps because my thumb always hits the turbo as well. It is real awkward for me to hit the top button in a way that I don't hit the bottom turbo one. That's just how I hold the controllers. Plus the d-pad has an awkward feel, like I have to press it harder slightly. Maybe for most people this is not a problem but I am very sensitive to any kind of button delay at all. If I sense the slightest delay the controller has to be taken apart and cleaned/fixed to 100%. Having to push harder constitutes as delay for me.

The Wii lot will be $50 plus shipping an pp fees. The dreamcast lot will be $60 plus shipping and pp fees. Comes with 2 VMU ( 1 in each controller). ..

Ok just a quick update. I decided to knock out a second one and with full taking apart, cleaning, reassembly, and testing it was 14 minutes start to finish. ...

I just did this, didn't take me too long. With my dremel attachment I could probably knock these out in 15 minutes w/full testing. I had a few snes controllers w/no cords and broken shells, basically I keep for parts. I used a snes d-pad and it is super tight now snug (I redid it a bit). Not sure if you guys use glue but there is no need. With that said, I still don't like them lol. They are usable now but just not for me. I still don't find the d-pad to be 100% precise and responsive as a normal nes pad. They were allright for something like Mario but I find on like Gradius I experienced lack of precision in my movements. ...

You are better off just buying it for $5 off ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Great-White-North-Bob-Doug-McKenzie-Audio-CD/263687652540?epid=3225264&hash=item3d650244bc:m:m6CjPykuSOGiDYpW9gGhEdA

Yes I just came back in to correct my statement lol. I actually have a ps2 slim right here on my floor that does not use a brick. Mine is a 90001 that uses just the cord. I thought about that just now and I was like wait a second this one doesn't use a brick lol.

All SOME ps2 SLIMS use a brick, ps2 fat systems use a cord only. I specifically mentioned ps one not ps1. The small white ps one, uses a brick and cord just as the some ps2 slims do. Here I have a few broken ones. You can see it is called PS one on the cover and uses the same dc plug it says 7.5v -to+

If you have a ps one (small white one) it may but don't take my word for it lol, check the ratings. I am pretty sure I used a slim ps2 power supply for a ps one though in the past.

I have noticed searching keywords does not always bring up all threads. I just now went in the wanted section because I wanted to find my thread I created to see what game I was looking for to make sure I didn't get it. I typed in "icemanxp300" while it showed me 3 pages the thread I was looking for did not show up. I then remembered it was likely "Wild Arms Alter Code F". So I went back and typed in "Wild Arms" and boom first search entry was my thread. Is there a glitch as to why when I searched my name it had shown me a topic I created like 6 years ago about sobe but not one from last year?

Works for me, he just has you blocked lol

got pics?

Exactly! I have not come across an aftermarket N64 controller that works yet. I would have passed on them.

No different then models, actors, singers, and so on. I'm sure you are a fan boy of something and have purchased a shirt supporting someone you like in the past.

Great trader. Smooth easy transaction, good communication, fast payment. Very easy to deal with!

Ok so nothing like wasting 3 hrs or so trying to mod a ps1 I don't even need as I already have a modded unit. At this point it is purely about principle. I have tried programming numerous times different files. http://www.eurasia.nu/modules.php?name=Downloads&d_op=viewdownload&cid=43 The first I tried was PSX 12F629 package and it says that a 9000 series only uses 3 wires w/ a jumper. I am not sure this pcb is a 9000 series though as the unit says on bottom it is a 7501. Wiring this way will not play any games even original w/that jumper there, I think the wiring diagram may be wrong. I then tried, this mm3 hex dump http://www.maxconsole.com/threads/psx-mm3-hex-dump-for-pic12f629-has-been-released.18321/ This however gives me a configuration verify failed error which I believe is a programming glitch. Using Gq-4x. topic started here about it. http://www.mcumall.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5513 I have the option of changing the file format I have tried programming the hex file as binary and hex, nothing works. Well original games will play but not burned. Below are the pics of what I am using for wiring. Here is the psx wiring given for the pcb I am using. Here is the mm3 wiring given for the pcb I am using Here is the file format choice I can choose when I load the hex file. ...

These are mine. My aunt gave me the Zelda and Mario a few years back, they were hers and she decided to give me them for xmas. I found the DK for super cheap a year or 2 ago, like $10. It was missing the cover art so I printed one, not the same but better than nothing. I remember many many years ago I found the epoch-man at a yard sale for like $.10. The DKJ and parachute are escaping my mind right now on how I obtained them. The bottom two are games from Russia. My old neighbor got them when he was a kid visiting Russia. He gave them to me probably 7-8 years ago when he gave me his entire collection to sell for him, they are pretty neat. ...

There is no conspiracy. People can use your site all they want, whatever that is! I have NO CLUE what you are doing or what you have done to the site. I am completely lost on what you want people to do to maintain free memberships. You said last year we needed to log in, yet nobody could. I just went back and unless I forgot my password I still can't log in. I have no clue what stripe is, which you just said we will need to use. Don't worry about it, you are right you don't owe us anything. At this point, I don't even care.

And this is why we still have no clue what's going on! You could have answered my questions you just quoted but instead chose to ignore everything again. You are the only person who knows what is "really" going on. My honest thoughts are this. Piko opens thread about how to make GG an awesome auction site. Piko learns tons of people have free accounts, he was unaware of. Piko says f-the auction site, we will make it a "marketplace store" in which people will have an extremely hard time using and it will be stripped down to a bare minimum for "free memberships" and anything needed to utilize said site will be an "extra" fee that does not pertain to unlimited accounts. Do whatever you want man. The GameGavel name has as much backing as you releasing a coleco chameleon.

I was trying real hard to NOT reply to this but this just really irritates me. I did not forget about the email or what was said in this thread. The problem here is what I just quoted. Saying we had to login and sell by a cut-off date to maintain our membership. The problem is no date has been given and no site appears to be available to log-in to. There is an enormous lack of communication regarding this entire project. Maybe some of you have inside info that is not listed in this thread. I myself do not. I have zero clue if logging in as vendor or creating a new vendor account is what is expected to maintain said memberships. I have no idea if previous statements are about an auction site that may or may not exist anymore. I have no idea whether this "marketplace" is suppose to be the auction site. I did not forget, I simply don't understand what is going on. Fragments of info back and forth months apart does not exactly answer questions. I guess I can "assume" since the email came after Piko's statement I should just assume no requirements are needed to maintain said membership since it was not mentioned in the email? That email also said "Again, the Gamegavel.com site will run as is and will work with the current website features." Where the hell did it go? Maybe you should answer all these questions I forgot and refresh my memory!

What is there to use? There doesn't even appear to be an auction site anymore, just some marketplace that says under construction. What are people going to be a vendor of? I don't see a single item for sale by anyone so if people can't see what you are selling what is the point?

The problem here is not one but many. Many different things were said multiple times. That email was sent but it was also stipulated in this thread he was setting conditions that must be met for lifetime memberships to maintain those memberships and one was we had to log in which last I knew we could NOT! We have been waiting for updates but there hasn't been any. At this point I really don't care what does or doesn't happen. This is what happens when communication just drops off completely and people make up their own determinations on what's going. As far as I see, gamegavel is a lost cause and not worth the hassles to deal with especially when I'm pretty sure it was purchased w/out the knowledge of basically everyone having a lifetime account. The main user base of income was gone before Piko even started.

Then that is fine, However if the auction site runs w/that name it is not dead, just switched ownership. Gamespy Arcade is now dead. However back in like 2001 ish I purchased a lifetime membership there and years later they sold out to some company which I can't remember it's name. The point is while it was still Gamespy Arcade regardless of whom owned it they honored the lifetime free memberships. I can see it now, how many of you guys would be complaining if Nintendo sold out to a different company and when your $300 system had problems they told you tough shit your warranty was an agreement you made with the previous Nintendo establishment. How about you buy a season pass, lets use the Buffalo Bills since they just got a new owner, then all of the sudden you find out your season passes you paid for are no longer valid because they were under prior agreements w/past owners and the new owners no longer want to honor prior agreements.

If the lights light up as orange or green you are likely good on the install. red means the install is bad. If I remember correctly if you have a red install which pretty much means bridged connections, it will not play any disc. Odds are you only need to adjust the pot slightly. Don't close the system up every time. Take it all apart, adjust the pot a quarter turn and then just put the shield back on w/out screws and push it down. put the disc in hold the two levers down and push the power and see what happens. If it doesn't work keep adjusting the pot slightly. I would try clockwise but If you get to a full turn put it back and go the other direction. If that still doesn't work put it back and odds are you are burning the cd's wrong.

Ok, so I have done quite a few of these and I have had my headaches early on as well. This "can be" a VERY simple install. First off you need a small fine tip. The tip I use is actually a little on the bigger side than I like. The smallest needle tip works best but even then you can still have problems. The most difficult part of this job is the top two circles, this is because bridging the pads underneath is very easy to do. I have come up w/a very simple easy method. Take some IDE wire and strip it back an inch or so. Tin the wire and cut it off and then in half. Now go to the board and carefully tin the outer pads. Then add your wire post to the pads. Triple check this step to make damn sure you did NOT bridge the pads. The wire post should be sticking up quite high so as you can just drop the xeno chip over them and they will hold the chip in place nicely. This next step while extremely easy is very important. Bend the wire over the thicker solder points on the modchip, make sure the wires are nice and close to the pads. Then quickly add a small drop of solder. DO NOT heat that wire long or you risk breaking that nice connection you made on the pcb pad. Once you have the two circles out of the way, the rest is easy. Just tin the outer pads and each solder point and then fill it in w/solder till you bridge them together. The only thing you have to avoid is bridging both joints together. Take your time because trust me it is not fun removing these chips from the pcb to clean up and start over. Don't forget to cut back your wire post when you are done. I just did a complete install from start to finish in 30 minutes. That included full disassembly, soldering on the chip, testing it plays burned games, reassembling the unit, and doing a 2nd testing. Here is a picture of what I just did, so you can see what I mean by the wire post. While the goal is to perform the mod as quickly as possible, you def. want to take your time and not rush it. In case you are wondering on the size of the chip. ...