icemanxp300

Just a side note that wire is strong enough I can pick the entire board up just by that wire joint.

OK guys I think I did pretty good here. I dipped solder end into flux and dipped solder tip into flux, then when it got hot it sucked it around pretty nice. I wiped it off and did it again. Wiped it off and left a blob on it and shut it off. (just playing around). Looked very shiny like it tinned nicely. Then I stripped a wire and "tinned the wire". I dipped wire in flux and let it draw solder off end of iron tip. Then I fluxed solder wire again and touched wire to spot on board to get some flux on board. I circled an identical contact point to show what I soldered to. I then drew a very tiny amount of solder onto the iron tip and put wire on contact spot and then place iron on top of wire to draw solder through wire onto board. It stuck good at least it is very tight to me and no mess. What you think? Since it was so small I didnt hold the solder wire there as I don't think I needed a lot of solder, thats why I just drew it off the tip of the iron.

Thanks everyone. I think I'm polly just gonna take an old ps1 board (since I have like 4 that have bad lasers) and just start playing until I get my switches in. Maybe solder some wires on board and what not. Get a feel for everything.

Sounds like a gameboy link cable to me. I'd take it if you are just going to thow it away. In all reality you could probably get $5 for it or so from someone who needs one.

Interesting about the solder. I know w/HVAC (which is a whole diff. ballgame) there is diff. solder as well 50/50 which is used for like boiler systems. Then there is silver solder which is required to be used by law for soldering lines that will have drinking water flowing through them. They don't want lead solder being used for drinking water lines. Just a fun tip if you do any home repair. Anyhow silver solder melts faster and flows a whole heck of a lot better. It just sucks in nice and easy compared to the 50/50 but cost alot more. I would guess since it is "softer" and has a lower melting point. Anyhow I would think this same concept would apply to the 63/37 solder. A softer solder melts faster and is more malleable than the 60/40. I'll go back and see what they got but when I was looking my choice was made simple becasue they didn't have choices lol. It was all 60/40 but diff thicknesses. I'm not gonna "sweat" it lol if they don't have the 63/37 As far as tinning this bad boy would I want to dip this tip into the flux before I turn it on and just hold the solder to the end until it starts taking it? Once it does take it should I clean it off and do it again?

All good stuff, was just doing some more research while I'm waiting 3 weeks for these switches to come on. I just watched a video that seems very important and I wouldn't have know otherwise. Well actually more like 3 videos, apparantly you need to tin a soldering iron immediatley and after you are done using it you need to clean it and tin it again before storing it. You guys have any other usefull tips and stuff like this I should know about? Honestly if I had not watched these videos I would have turned it on waited tll it was hot and just tried to solder with it, destroying the tip in the process.

That packing is horrible. I would never send a system like that and $15 for media when a large flat rate is I believe $14.90 now...come on. As far as the ritz box.. This is me to a point. Granted I am very anal about shipping but I will ship a game or two in a flipped fruitsnack box or triscuit box or what not. I wrap them in bubble wrap and then pack around the entire box w/newspaper. The package is very very strong and the boxes are light enough that you can get 1st class rates. I do this over bubble mailers. I absolutely hate bubble mailers. If it's a cartridge (low value) fine take the risk, it's on you. I once had a collectible cardboard slip cover dvd set escaflowne perfect collection sent to me in a bubble mailer. I was heated!!! Anything that is boxed or has paper/cardboard goes in a sturdy box when I ship it. I did once do a boxed ps1 many years ago in kraft paper, but buyer reqeusted so I did it. All in all kraft paper isn't that cheap. You don't save $$ by using it I don't think.

Just wanted to chime on on how he wrote that he definitely did not word it in a way that makes it show it is a "counterfeit" copy. He said the word copy but in the way that it could be referring to "legal" copy. I could write that for any game I sell. ex: This is a copy of pac-man.

I reported the item, hope it helps. Report Category: Copyright and trademark Reason for report: Counterfeit item or authenticity disclaimer Detailed reason: counterfeit, fake, or replica items. Brief description: "This is an illegal reproduction of the original cart. The original game does not look like this." I left out the rounded label on purpose, no reason to give the thiefs advice on how to make better pirates.

You clean the nes pin connector with water, thats all that is needed. I am serious

Nice. I watched a few videos on soldering circuits and overall it doesn't seem much different than doing copper pipe soldering. You clean parts (well I don't know if it matters here), add flux, add heat on backside, add solder to front side and let it pull around. Removed heat and let it flow and then you are done. Sound right? Do you think those tactile switchesd are good? 50 for $3 almost seems like they are cheap, but maybe they are just cheap to make to begin with?

Thanks guys, I ended up getting this while I was out today(pic below). Hopefully it will work. My beginner project or what seems like it shouldn't be too hard is for me to do this atari controller mod. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_cRIFhsMSTU&feature=my_watch_later_videos&list=WLCAF76F0BC0F4C619 It's seems straight forward and I have plenty of room on the board to make the connection. My plastic inside the controller is broke so the stick needs repair anyhow and besides the controllers are cheap, so if I kill it no biggie. How are these tactile switches? Imean 50 for $3 are they even good lol? eBay Auction -- Item Number: 180772324438 Heres what I grabbed today. I got thin solder as it just made sense that it would work better. It is .032 60/40 rosin core, is that ok?

Awesome thanks guys. I'll post what I grab. Maybe I can make some cool mods.

I remember looking them over at Radio shack and when I was looking they had a few diff. kinds. Different tips and what not and diff. powers. What kind of power and tips would I want? edit: how about solder and does this require flux? I use to do hvac and have copper soldering experience but not this.

Want something decent but not bank breaking. Thinking of doing something simple like the tactile switch mod for the 2600 sticks. The board is pretty good size and doesn't look too complicated, looks doable. What do you suggest?

There is a possibility he purchased this and didn't make it himself. Now maybe he needs some cash and is selling it. He may not know it was it was homebrew copy?

Well my knowlege does lack in atari, I have never opened an atari cart. I mainly deal w/nintendo. I assumed the screw needed to be removed in order to open the cartridge, and that was the big problem w/not opening it. I however have been cleaning/reviving carts for for a very long time and I see no problems w/goo gone myself. Granted I did that fast because the cart doesn't have value and I didn't care much about the label. If I wanted I could remove that entire label (end label as well) and replace w/very minute damage if any. Too each their own. I have been using goo gone for awhile and have yet to see any side effects from it being in contact w/labels. Whos knows, I guess since I don't have a business and charge for this service I can't classify myself a "professional" regardless if I have over a decade of experience dealing w/this kind of stuff. Owell auction it off as is or pay someone who "advertsises" to do it. Ya I'm getting annoyed here, I'm exitinmg this thread while I'm still sane.

Bah. Besides the corner there is no damage to label. Even so I would much rather have a cart with a bit of corner damage than a hole in the center lol. Just shooting it out if he wants to open this bad boy.

ok I did this just fro this thread. Mind you this label was solid down and I had no starting point, hence the creases at corners and I didn't want to wait. If you have any starting point at all you can remove this label w/zero damage. I use goo gone spray, the trick is pull at a slow angle to avoid crease and constanly spray the goo gone under label and pull slow let the goo gone do the work. If label starts to come up w/adhesive add more goo gone and tilt cart to get adhesive lose. Now what you glue lable back on with is still to be determined. I would probably stay away from super glue in case somone else wants to remove label. So I would use a glue that would easily be dissolved again. I also wipe off the goo gone and swipe cart over w/alcohol to removes remnatnts of goo gone.

In chat right now Hover came up an old pc game I use to play. I found it and we all started playing and having a blast. It's an old win 95 game. Check the link below and dl this bad boy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40LKqFRXL8k Anyhow this game would be sweet on a cart, not sure what system would best play this. I did find another vid where someone redid it but it's like German or something. I think it would be really awesome if someone could pc this w/better video and make it lan capable. That would be awesome. I'd love to hover against my wife Or if it was on a cart some kind of 2p split screen would be cool. Well let me know what you think.

No, I'm icemanxp300

lol nice

First off question? If label was damaged to prove cart was authentic would that still add value overall or take away value? Secondly if label is damaged and cart is not real, well you are not really out anything now are you lol. Thirdly. If proper measures are taken and someone who knows what they are doing looks at this cart, that label can be removed w/out damage and replaced after board has been looked at. I made undo do wonders recently on a dw3 cart. I'm sure there are methods out there than can look at this cart w/out damaging it.

Maybe it's a real life Brewster's Millions! On a side note I looked at this auction forever last night trying to find out why this sold for what it did, I'm still lost lol. eBay Auction -- Item Number: 360478562237

It's kind of like gambling....don't go broke. Me I'm a different breed of collector. I'm a pure reseller/trade collector. Meaning I scour craigslist, yardsales, thriftstores and buy anything and everything that is a steal. I then keep what I want and sell off the rest to break even or make a profit. Sometimes I'll sell it all and recoup what I have in it and then take the leftover $$ and by something nice with it. This is really the best way to do it. Then again you constantly have to be selling and getting that $$ back. Another tactic I use is I sell all the high value items and then weed out the systems and commons and trade them for credit at my gamestore. I then get rare titles or new stuff w/that credit. In the end all I have invested is time and sometimes I make a little $$ in the process.