icemanxp300
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Posts posted by icemanxp300
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Are they really idiots?
In my area yes they are. You have to pay to get old CRT's taken. The garbage company will not pick them up, they will just sit there. These people toss them out "hoping" someone will come take them. I even see these morons posting pictures on facebook saying FREE come take it, while it is pouring outside.
If you want someone to take something you shouldn't destroy it.
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I think you can pick well in big cities too, at least some of them...I've seen plenty of small CRTs on trash day out on the curb in Philly. But maybe that wave has passed.
There is no way I'm picking up a TV off the curb. I will not take one unless I see it works. Nowadays you have these idiots tossing TV's out in the rain and snow and everything else.
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I toss them in a box. A big box.
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Well, the RF modulator in those goes bad pretty frequently. However I have seen bad VRAM do stuff like that before. A composite mod is cheap and easy if you can do it yourself. Please don't cut pin 21, just lift it. Or do it right and socket the PPU.
That was my guess as it had the static sound. Not really worth a composite mod when the shell is cracked.
Someone else can have at it. I stole the pin connector for mine. Now mine works perfectly. I first swapped the cpu before I robbed the pin and that was not the problem. I swapped it just because I had one pulled and it was only like 5min to do. It now needs a new pin connector and whatever the original problem was. The shell is cracked, pin connector shot, and graphical errors. I'll toss it on ebay and see if someone wants it.
Now w/my shot pin connector it hardly displays any video lol, just static and a picture you can see slightly forming in the background.
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Craigslist and Facebook marketplace are still good sites for finding cheap or free CRT's.
Yeah they are free all over right now in my area. I recently nabbed an extra 27" and a 32" and now my buddy is getting a 36". There are tons for free right now (all Trinitrons) but I only grab the really good models. Of course we have people trying to charge to but they are not going to move while you can find 5 others that are free.
Right now people don't realize Trinitrons are better than most and they are happy to have someone lug them away fro them. I totally understand. I gave cement blocks away for free just because it would cost me tons to take them to the junk-yard and I didn't feel like waiting for someone to give me maybe $20. Same with a washer and Dryer I had. I sold them both for like $40 just so I wouldn't have to pay to get rid of them.
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So I went to the my local Game Store today and he had a top loader sitting in a bag. I said, oh you got a Top-Loader in. He said it didn't work, plus the top shell was cracked. The garbage man brings him stuff lol. This was a garbage find. I offered him $20 as my Top Loader needs a new pin connector. I figured this was like a GPU problem and I likely would not waste my time trying to fix it, when I can swap the connector into my working console.
At any rate here are some pics. No audio just static. What do you think is the problem?
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Around here you have to pay to recycle CRT TV's. Some dumps will not take them and the ones that do they make you pay them a fee. With that said I believe Best Buy and some of my local Recycling centers WILL accept Trinitrons for free, but that is the ONLY CRT they don't charge for.
Keep an eye out because certain days out of the year at least in my area places hold free recycling days. I actually seen we have one this Saturday and here I paid $20 to recycle on old CRT TV last year. It was not a great one and the sound was distorted and low. I tried giving it away for months and finally just gave my dad $20 and told him to take it to his dump, they take them for $20 there.
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Wasn't too hard click history and choose the 2015 one and scroll down and click "old website download". It will be in folder pix.
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Unless you are talking about a different bit I will pass. Once that center tip goes through the bit has zero support and wobbles making the hole bigger. These are the exact same size bits and the results. Now Atari plastic is more brittle than snes, there is no way I would use a metal bit for drilling holes.
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If your first mark is dead center on all 3 you can use that on the tip of your bit to make sure the wholes all stay straight. Don't bother with all the different bit sizes. That only leaves room for error. Measure twice, drill once.
Those bits are metal bits. I didn't know how they would affect chipping on the plastic. I have had bad experiences in the past by not starting small. Generally whenever I go straight to a bigger size bit like that chipping results. I have had extremely bad luck using those tips in the past. Last year when building my deck those damn bits just tore through the wood, the holes were not clean at all.
I will test them on some junk snes shells and see what happens. I think I would still prefer starting smaller and going bigger, as long as the first hole is center that's going to be the center for all other holes. You only get into problems if you skip sizes.
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The yellow jack did go about 1/32" lower, not even that much. My first hole was just slightly off center and I tried to push my holes up afterwards to correct it but it didn't happen. Yes it irritated me lol. I "could" have drilled the holes a tad bigger and corrected w/play but I wanted the jacks to be tight. I highly recommend starting with 1/32" instead of 1/16".
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This is the 2nd time I did this mod. I had this laying around for about 2 years now lol. Since the last mod I did. I am very slow at getting to projects like this. This kit comes pre-soldered all you have to do is solder the wires to the board and jacks and remove a few components from the board.
Still deciding if I will sell it or keep it. Odds are I will sell it but just wanted to show how I cut my jacks.
First I put sticker paper on the back and then I measure out the exact center. From there I measure over 5/8" to both sides. Those are the 3 center points for each jack.
Now to cutting. Leave the sticker on the entire time this will prevent chipping or at least minimize it. I start with a real small bit like 1/16" and move my way all the way up to 15/64". That gives a snug fit. Run the 15/64" through the hole a few times to allow the jacks to slide in easy. If in a pinch between drill sizes you can skip one but be careful. Chipping will occur. It is best to do holes for each size all the way from 1/16" to 15/64". It takes more time but not much.
Since the RCA jacks is the hardest and most important part of this job take extra time measuring. It will be hard to get 100% dead even. That first drill you do, try and make it dead nuts because each drill after that will follow that hole. If that initial hole is off, the jacks will be off. That is why it is super important to start very small. Go 1/32" if you have it.
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It would be totally awesome if somebody (hinthint) gave a summary of the difference/functionality of RetroTINK, RetroTINK 2X, Framemeister, OSSC, etc. Because I already know all of it, naturally, but for the other people. You know.
How do these upscaling devices work with non-square pixels? Like the ever fun and quirky 256x224 of the SNES?
Thanks for that, now this thread about using a CRT is going to turn into another thread about devices used on newer TV's to accomplish what a CRT already does on it's own.
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I doubt that a relevant number of people here is reluctant to voice their positive opinion.
I disagree. When your opinion disagrees w/people in power you elect to not voice it!
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Do likes really matter that much here?
Not really. I just thought it would be interesting to see how many people actually agree with what someone says but they don't want other people to know.
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I know from first hand experience kids suck when it comes to selling stuff. I had a yard sale two years ago where I had tons of games for sale. I kept getting kids wanting to touch everything. I had one kid pick up a snes game and drop the damn thing on the blacktop driveway, he broke a post inside. The parents didn't even bother to buy it, they just walked away like tough shit. I skipped the sale last year.
With that said I personally would not run a game store where anything was touchable by the public. Most everything would be behind cases to look at. As such I think shrink-wrapping a system is redundant, especially if you are going to show it works. In this industry especially selling retro consoles that people have a hard time getting to work, showing it works should be automatically done for each sale.
Plus shrink-wrapping cords and controllers on top of a system just adds scratches. I personally would be less likely to purchase said system if it was wrapped like that. Just as I will not even consider buying anything cardboard if it has a price sticker on it!
Even when I sell locally I put the console in a separate bag from the controllers/cords just to make sure I am not scratching the system. I'm sure in most cases the people buying systems are less collectors and more players so they most likely don't care too much if the system get scratched, but you should always market yourself to appease both collectors and players.
I had to give my local game store a jab last week as he has a nes deluxe set for $350 yet he has all these huge signs that are taped on it. I told him I wouldn't personally buy it, his response was the tape is cheap and just falls off anyhow. Sorry but putting tape on a cardboard box you want $350 for that targets collectors will not end well.
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I want to know why people want a "like"vote system, without a "dislike" option?
I love the dislike option myself. I have been on other sites that implement a + - system and it's funny when someone has -20 LOL. The dislike option does tend to bring out negativity so that is the main reason sites avoid it. Some people have a hard time dealing w/scores when they are negative and people just neg them to be funny and edge those people on.
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I was thinking about this the other day. I believe sometimes people don't "like" a post because they don't want people to see they liked it for whatever reason. I think if a hide your identify feature was implemented we would see a greater number of "likes" on post.
Just a thought. Kind of like the concealed polls, people are more likely to vote in a poll where results are hidden. People like to stay private.
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I get it. Everything looks shiny and nice under the crap and probably makes for easier sales (?)
I have a bunch of nes game protectors I got when I bought a guys collection about 2 years ago. At times I take pictures of the games inside the clear protectors and state free protector in the listing. It makes my games look new
and def. helps with sales. Then again I also add pics outside the sleeves as well because I don't want someone telling me what I sent them isn't as good as the pic shows. The highlighted pic will be the one in the sleeve though. The sleeves do hide small flaws, so people should always look at all the pics. -
Speaking of CRT TV's and great finds. A guy I sold a Gameboy and Dreamcast too a few months back just listed his KD-36FS170 for free!!! It is the SD model and all. Just like my 27" but in souped up 36". I sadly can't get it, it is too big and I already have too many. I am however having my buddy get it. He has been wanting a good one for awhile. Hopefully he gets to it. I doubt there is a huge line up in the area for a 36" beast like this.
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It depends on what side the buttons are on, however using the right hand for buttons if the joystick is on the left side would be my preferred style. Having buttons on left and joystick on right would be awkward.
I just realized there isn't really any buttons in Ms. pac-man LOL. I might have to go right handed in that case
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Those mini arcades are cool. I got a hold of a set of 6 a year or so ago. I think I got like $80 for them when I sold them on ebay. I don't really collect those things.
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Sell it fast, it will die quicker than Pokémon Go.
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Does anybody else rock a CRT?
in Classic Console Discussion
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Selling a Kidney or 3?