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Level42

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Posts posted by Level42

  2. Posted · Edited by Level42

    On 7/28/2020 at 5:38 PM, mytek said:

    ... Maybe it's better not to ask which is better to buy, but instead just pose the question of which multicart (in general) provides the simplest UI to learn and use...

     

    That price still goes to The!cart IMHO. 
    But getting the files ON that one is another story sadly....

    Side3 looks to be very close in user friendliness, and simply copying files to an SDcard is sooooo much easier than programming a cart through the A8 itself...
     

    .....maybe some options of SIDE3 could be disabled "permanently" if you don't need it ? I for one, have never felt the need for harddisk access on the A8.

    Since I am a big fan of the U1MB I'll probably be getting a SIDE3 soon.

    • Like 1

  3. Posted

    On 12/15/2020 at 1:44 AM, Faicuai said:

     

    Nice !!

     

    No doubt this game, with its intricate detail and micro-contrast on textures will shine on LCD displays. These will be the way to go for this type of content, and also the perspectives and on-screen layouts, which will look much better without geometric / barrel distortion.

     

    As for CRT, they should also look good as long as the actual CRT display offers DEEP blacks, good flatness and excellent linearity, like a Sony PVM or equivalent, and close to 19 inches.

    Since when do (cheapish) LCDs offer deep blacks ? Or vivid colors ?

    You can have your LCD's, for retro gaming I'll stick with my Sophia RGB and Bang & Olufsen MX8000 26" CRT, no matter what game you trow at it. Here's my picture...and as you know it's hard to take a good picture from a CRT.... (this is NTSC by the way).

     

     

    e431e96b-d05a-4520-a474-d701856453d5.jpg

    • Like 3

  4. Posted

    18 hours ago, rmzalbar said:

    There is a similar project for the C64 called VicII², and indeed, it has every single one of the problems you are listing here. To get around all of the issues, they had to go with relays instead of solid state logic (in part so the power is switched) and a side-by-side board as opposed to a stack; and even with the side-by-side layout, the need for heatsinks on the ICs means that it will only fit in the taller breadbin-style models that have enough space under the keyboard. Perifractic has a great video on how they developed it and dealt with each of the challenges that is worth a look as there are a lot of parallels there.

     

    The end result was a brute-force approach that turned out to be physically imposing and pretty expensive. And, of course, for North Americans we need a monitor capable of full PAL decoding, not just 50hz capable as the case would be with the Antix. I have one in just one of my breadbins and I really like having the convenience of it, but it was a little finicky to get going. Crucially, the Vic-II also handles direct RF generation, so switching and tuning the clock generator and switching the RF output also had to be done which isn't really the case with the Antic since some of those functions are on GTIA.

     

    Given the expense and limitations, I could see where an FPGA Antic implementation could be the right drop-in solution in this case.

    That's interesting. I actually had a look at using the same idea as AntiX on the C64 and thought it would actually be easier than on the A8. Interesting to read that it didn't turn out to be like that. 

    I believe something like has now been done with POKEY but then with NTSC and PAL ANTICs would be more convenient and safe.

  5. Posted

    Thanks ! Those "Githubs" are driving me crazy.

    It's a system where everyone expects to know how it works....and I'm too stupid LOL

     

    However: "This release has a known bug that can brick The!Cart when you try to flash it using an ATR." oops....I'll wait a bit :)

  7. Posted

    I just realized that I haven't posted about this yet. It is some sad news:


    There's a couple of reasons that made me decide to not start producing AntiX.

    First of all, I don't have the time to build them myself. It's a LOT of work to make them because of the complicated construction. You have to solder sockets in the right order, cut away pins etc. 
    Antother reason is that I wanted a single solution for all machines. However the XL's are really small under the keyboard (depending a bit on which keyboard) and making AntiX small enough to fit all would be very hard and expensive (special extra low profile sockets etc.)

    Another, smaller, reason is that I feared that in the US, people might think this would "easily" work with their TVs/monitors. There was already at least some misunderstanding about what AntiX is and what it is not. In the US you'd need a pretty special kind of TV/monitor like a Sony PVM or other TV that will accept the typical "hybrid" signal.

    Next is a concern. I had one ANTIC die on my own set-up. Now....this could be coincidence but it also could be not. The set-up with the stacked ANTICs generates quite a bit more heat than the single ANTIC does. The reason is that the Antic which is not in use still consumes energy.

    I didn't want to get a lot of returns and people claiming failing ANTIC chips on me......

    The final thing happening was talk here on the forum by I think Michael St.Pierre (is that his correct name) about a completely different solution....was it in FPGA or something similar ? Not sure, but I think that would be much more advanced, and safer.

    For true hobbyists, who are willing to take the responsibility, they can still download the files from the ABBUC website as all documentation is published there (you need to be a member though).

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
    • Sad 1

  9. Posted

    On 9/13/2020 at 2:32 PM, FULS said:

    Hi,
    I love "The!Cart", but a big drawback is no support for the cartridge game "Bounty Bob Strikes Back".


    There are some Xex's and Atr's of the game, but all had flaws in one way or another.
    Some files were Pal only, some would not run if you had over 64kb of ram,

    and ALL would not handle System Reset correctly(Unplayable corruption on 2'nd screen Hydraulic Lift).


    There is enormous copy protection on the cartridge.

    Homesoft made the only perfect file version, but that file would not work with "The!Cart".

     

    Now the good news for me, I ordered "Turbo Freezer" from santosp. Love this thing!!
    I pluged it into my 130Xe and loaded Homesoft's file version of BBSB. I put in the documented cheat using the 61800 number.
    I pressed the freezer button and dumped the contents of my ram to an Atr file.
    It seems to work like a charm, and the best news it works with "The!Cart".

     

    Now you can press the following keys while playing:

    B - Back to the place where you were standing last
    Q - Next level
    A - Previous level
    Z - Restart level
    F - Bounty Bob can move freely and can not die.

     

    (This is the best cheat) - To go to any level type the level number(ex. 03,11,08 ect.). There are 25 levels.

    The Atr loads 500 sectors but when it is put in "The!Cart",  takes about 2 seconds to load.

     

    Here is the Atr if anybody wants to play with it.

    Bounty Bob Strikes Back.atr 90.02 kB · 25 downloads

     

    Hope you enjoy,

    Doug Fuls

    BIG thank you for this, this was one of my (few) frustrations with The!cart going to try it now !

  11. Posted · Edited by Level42

    How can a system with a built in screen be region specific ?

    Vectrex isn’t either. 
    PAL and NTSC are TV broadcasting systems. They only play a role with consoles and computers which BITD had to produce a PAL/NTSC on an external screen like a TV.

     

    people saying there are regional systems/cartridges when it comes to the Lynx do not know what they are talking about.

  12. Posted

    It’s nice....tried the Mac version. Some aspects are really good, some should improve. F.i. You can land in range of the pilot, but if you’re far away it takes forever for the pilot to arrive...

     

    the launch effect in the tunnel is also much less impressive than the A8 version....and it should be so simple to do....

     

    I kinda expected partly mouse controls but no such thing....

     

    also when landed and systems on, on the A8 you can fly away just by increase your speed, I don’t remember having to press L to “launch”.

     

    also the mothership always seems available....

     

    but all in all it captures all the essentials very well, especially the atmosphere.

     

    the game without aliens is naturally completely worthless thoug, but I think it’s a good think they keep them away until the final version is ready.

  13. Posted

    Excellent !

     

    Still progressing with this. I have now soldered boards for 20 sets so that's going very well.

     

    I have also set-up a spread sheet to keep track of orders etc. and my girlfriend agreed to help me with the ordering and shipping process (she probably doesn't know what she's getting into :D )

    However, before "launching" the ordering process I first needed to verify if the set will actually fit and work on XE's as well. So yesterday I dug-up my old trusty 130XE and went ahead. I also made pictures etc. to make a bit of an installation instruction. 

    As always, the path to success is through some failures and well.....I fucked up LOL.

    I neatly removed the original connector from the PCB, installed the adapter PCB correctly to the main PCB and soldered the original connector to the other adapter PCB......but.....when I wanted to connect it for a test run I realized that the contacts of the flex-cable were facing the wrong side of the small FPC connector...... I thought I had to twist it but of course that moves all the contacts around which is certainly what we don't want (see picture). 

    The solution is simple: The original PCB connector needs to be soldered on the "back-side".....
    It was so long ago that I installed the XL set that I had forgotten....

    Anyway, next I tried removing the connector again and it's not easy to do this carefully, so following that I figured it might be a great idea to add brand new connectors. This has a few advances:

    1) you can't make the same mistake that I did

    2) you will have a brand new fresh connector, if you look at the flex contacts you know it's nice to have fresh contacts for the coming century....

    3) it's no problem if you screw up your original connector (you still have to remove it very carefully though, the soldering islands of the XE's and even more the 800XE's and 65XE's are VERY fragile.)

     

    Luckily I could actually still source brand new connectors for a reasonable price.

     

    When ordering, let me know if you want this option. You can either select the connector simply to be added to the kit if you opt for a DIY kit, or let me solder it to one of the adapter PCB's for you.

     

    Loose connector adds 2 euro's to the price, installed connector 5 euro's extra.

     

    Also, I kinda forgot about this, but to install the adapter PCB to the main PCB you will need "double ended pins" (See picture).  Naturally I will include these with all sets sold.

     

    IMG_3305.thumb.jpg.64f3e03185303398085acd0ef163a5f8.jpg

     

    IMG_3295.thumb.jpg.5f6dce4db956c495ebc18b6797aacdd5.jpgimage.jpg.56314958d51510acbf021dcd52ea1bac.jpg

     

     

    • Like 1

  16. Posted

    Nice story....

     

    yeah I used my hot-air station for the first (blue) PCB set I made. I used solder paste and it worked but the heat of the gun also melted the connector a bit. Still worked, but naturally I’m trying to keep the connectors good for the “production” ones.

    made 4 so far....and getting better at it. It’s a bit of a shame that I need to solder the big pads first because there’s a tiny gap between the pins and the solder pads for them after soldering the big side pads.

    maybe I need to use a bit more solder on the pads for the pins.....practice makes perfect....

  17. Posted

    YES ! I finally found a quick and reliable way to solder the connectors !

    After trying the frying pan filled with sand (which kinda worked, but the stencil’s not here yet so it wasn’t a complete succes...it also required a very large input from the inductive cooking plate...) I tried hand soldering again. First I tried it with a “hoof” soldering tip, which allows to put some solder in the tip and then drag it over the pins. Complete failure in the way that I had almost all pins shorted together. 
    Next try I went for an ancient trick: pre-solder the soldering pads on the board. Then put the connector on, solder the two “big” pads on the side which hold the connector in place and then apply flux on the pins and without adding any solder, I drag soldered over the pins. To my amazement ALL pins were connected and there was not a single short !
    Best thing: it took just a few minutes to do, which is really needed if you have to do 50 boards....
     

    4365616C-68D2-4682-BB4C-8FD5B92E8530.jpeg

    • Like 4

  20. Posted

    LOL !

    Yeah I just happen to have an induction cooking plate in my kitchen since a year or so......you can even use a gas plate.

     

    I was indeed not thinking of bird sand but thanks for the tip anyway ! 

     

    Sadly I was so stupid to not order a stencil thinking I wouldn't need it, but for this it is definitely a great help. It would be crazy simple as it is only that single SMD connector of course.  I had some hope I could simply buy a ready made "general" stencil, but although these do exist they all seem to be aimed at phone repair/reballing. Also had a look at DIY stencil making video's on youtube but they are all pretty much work. I could also ask the PCB manufacturer to still make it but it will take some time to arrive which means further delays....anyway, lessons learned.

  21. Posted · Edited by Level42

    Status update: last 10 days it has been blistering hot and besides doing my daily work I have been mostly floating around in my Intex set-up pool.....

    However, things are finally cooling down a bit and I managed to get a “prototype set” ready.

    I used the “drag soldering” method but not with much succes. I had te desolder plenty of pins plenty of times and also use solder-wick to remove bridges.... took me probably an hour to complete the set with all contacts OK on both sides and no shorts. Next step...install in an XE....

     

    Also, I have found an interesting alternative soldering method using a frying pan, sand aluminium foil and an inductive cooking plate.....I’ll be trying that out too because it looks promising to be able to solder a number of boards in one go....

     

     

    6E4B2BF5-1533-4351-960F-07F0E3480076.jpeg

    • Like 1

  23. Posted

    Prices !
    1) DIY solder kit for one XL or XE: 10 euro
    2) kit with both connectors soldered 20 euro

    A kit is: two PCBs, two connectors, one flex cable.

    I realise the difference is pretty big but soldering the connectors needs to be done by hand and is rather time consuming.

    Shipping costs excluded and I’m shipping from The Netherlands. 
    If there is much interest from the US maybe a group order might save a lot on shipping costs. Shipping costs between Europe and the US are insane and I’m officially not allowed to ship any goods as a letter anymore.

     

    Which doesn’t stop me from doing it, but then the full risk is on the buyers side.

    • Like 1

  25. Posted

    On the second picture the image is set too large vertically.

    i don’t think there’s anything else wrong. Did you use any wet stuff for the cleaning ? Maybe not everything dried up OK before your first power up.

    missing sound is usually the volume pot needing cleaning or replacing.

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