Oge

Up.

PICTURES: IN DETAIL: - PAL - With Original Power Supply + 110/220VAC Universal Power Supply - Some cartridge can be added to the bundle - Near Mint (N.O.S. item used for some weeks) PRICE: €98,00 + Shipment (WorldWide)

Bump! Some units sold.

What about this one? Cheers, Oge

Are you referring to the Nuon Logitech Controller?

Someone who is able to repair TVs, as an example.

You will surely find someone locally which will be able to repair it: in the meanwhile, a small advice. Do not use it or you will end up damaging something. As it is now, it is probably a simple repair.

Bump. Cheers, Oge

A revolutionary Video Cable for the Atari Jaguar which I'm very proud to present. It comes in different versions in order to match any TV for both PAL and NTSC dudes. DETAILS: [√] LCDFIX (WORKS WITH BOTH CRT AND LCD TELEVISIONS); [√] RGBPLUS (ADDITIONAL FILTERING OF RED, GREEN, BLUE LINES); [√] GENUINE ATARI JAGUAR VIDEO CONNECTOR; [√] AN EXCLUSIVE, COLOURED, PLASTIC SHELL; [√] FULLY CUSTOMIZABLE (E.G. BNC CONNECTORS FOR SONY PVM; DIFFERENT CABLE LENGHT; ETC.) PRICE: €24,00 (RGB SCART) €22,00 (S-VIDEO + AUDIO 3.5" JACK) €22,00 (S-VIDEO + X2 AUDIO RCA CINCHS) €20,00 (VIDEO RCA CINCH + X2 AUDIO RCA CINCHS) SHIPMENT: €8,80 (EUROPE); €14,60 (UNITED STATES; CANADA & AUSTRALIA) PICTURES: OTHER COLOURS AVAILABLE¬¬

Ideally, a low E.S.R. capacitor has less current leakage. In other words, less ripple. And the less the ripple - ideally - the more the lifespan of the ICs. At each startup of the machine a set of low quality capacitors (or very old ones) may cause a spike/bump which stresses the machine. Internal resistance of the capacitor increases over time and while the machine is functioning due to heat. So, 105° Low E.S.R. is ideally better. Sanyo capacitors (green colour) are very good. The more a capacitor is used/old, the more the resistance. And the budget for recapping a console is very low, why go cheap?

Both S-VHS and SCART Cables are available as I write. Cheers, Oge

Up. Only one available as I write.

Bump! Feel free to ask. Cheers, Oge

You need at least 1000mA. An American Super Nintendo can function with 850mA but a Sega Genesis needs 1000mA. And if we consider plugging a device like a Everdrive, 9V@1200mA is to my opinion recommended. Looks like the component count on the picture posted by thecrypticodor is even less than bare minimum...

Recapping a Sega Genesis is IMO a pretty simple task. @segacdnerd: You can use tantalum if you do not care spending a bit more. You have to be very careful about the fact that tantalum do not like at all functioning with inverted polarity. Most of the capacitors are 16V@10uF so the budget will be good even with the highest quality capacitors.

By the way, the official size for the DC Plug seems to be 7x1mm. If someone is able to confirm that 6.5x1mm and 7.5x1mm fits as well it would be an useful information.

I have two solderable DC plugs built back in the day, you can find them in real life through some electronic shops. With a good 9V@2A Power Supply the perfect NTSC SNES Adapter is a reality.

A vast quantity of C64 games (even old ones) natively support the second fire button. Without it, you indeed need to press space bar (e.g. dropping bombs on Commando). R-Type, Operation Wolf and X-Out need it as well. I believe that there Atari games which make use of it as well (Omega Race). Cheers, Oge

Enhancer 2000 (also known as Oceanic OC-118) works with XM-1541 under Windows. Grat drive, BTW, reliable and capable of sector-per-sector checking while dumping using CBM4WINGUI.

This is caused by RF disturbances going from mains (AC) to output.

Low E.S.R. makes a difference, temperature rating - as already pointed out by Osgeld - not.

It has 3/4 inputs and I am rewiring it in order to solve a common problem of SCART Switchers: weakening of signals, which defeats the purpose of using cables of good quality

I am building a SCART Switcher with independent Blanking (it tunes to RGB/CVBS pressing a button and ignores blanking coming from the console in order to solve issues with Atari ST and Amiga when it comes to newer TV sets). Dropped a PM to you for other stuff.

The humming may be caused by weak ground on the cable side.

The price seems to be quite good considering absurd prices seen on some auction sites. I would make someone to inspect both motherboard and power supply in search of imminent failure/failures before using it extensively. This would IMHO save for a lot of headaches later. Hunting for a CRT monitor with SCART capability (very difficult to find in United States) or a Philips CM8833-II (most viable solution) will complete the setup. Cheers, Oge