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Oge

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Posts posted by Oge


  1. A revolutionary Video Cable for the Atari Jaguar which I'm very proud to present. It comes in different versions in order to match any TV for both PAL and NTSC dudes.

     

     

    DETAILS:

    [√] LCDFIX (WORKS WITH BOTH CRT AND LCD TELEVISIONS);

    [√] RGBPLUS (ADDITIONAL FILTERING OF RED, GREEN, BLUE LINES);

    [√] GENUINE ATARI JAGUAR VIDEO CONNECTOR;

    [√] AN EXCLUSIVE, COLOURED, PLASTIC SHELL;

    [√] FULLY CUSTOMIZABLE (E.G. BNC CONNECTORS FOR SONY PVM; DIFFERENT CABLE LENGHT; ETC.)

     

     

    PRICE:

    €24,00 (RGB SCART)

     

    €22,00 (S-VIDEO + AUDIO 3.5" JACK)

    €22,00 (S-VIDEO + X2 AUDIO RCA CINCHS)

     

    €20,00 (VIDEO RCA CINCH + X2 AUDIO RCA CINCHS)

     

    SHIPMENT:

    €8,80 (EUROPE);

    €14,60 (UNITED STATES; CANADA & AUSTRALIA)

     

    PICTURES:
    ATARI_SCART_JAGUAR_420_Px_001.jpg
    ATARI_SCART_JAGUAR_420_Px_002.jpg
    ATARI_SCART_JAGUAR_420_Px_003.jpg
    ATARI_SCART_JAGUAR_420_Px_004.jpg
    OTHER COLOURS AVAILABLE¬¬
    ATARI_SCART_JAGUAR_420_Px_004.jpg
    • Like 1

  2. Ideally, a low E.S.R. capacitor has less current leakage. In other words, less ripple. And the less the ripple - ideally - the more the lifespan of the ICs.

     

    At each startup of the machine a set of low quality capacitors (or very old ones) may cause a spike/bump which stresses the machine.

     

    Internal resistance of the capacitor increases over time and while the machine is functioning due to heat. So, 105° Low E.S.R. is ideally better. Sanyo capacitors (green colour) are very good.

     

    The more a capacitor is used/old, the more the resistance. And the budget for recapping a console is very low, why go cheap? :)


  3. I noticed that the output of an OEM SNES adapter is 10v & 850ma. The output on my old Chinese-made 3-in-1 is 9v 850ma. Not sure if that's a big deal or not.

     

    You need at least 1000mA. An American Super Nintendo can function with 850mA but a Sega Genesis needs 1000mA. And if we consider plugging a device like a Everdrive, [email protected] is to my opinion recommended.

     

    Looks like the component count on the picture posted by thecrypticodor is even less than bare minimum...


  4. -High quality SCART switchers with a nice amount of inputs, i.e. Bandridge, gScart, Thor, Keene, etc.

     

    I am building a SCART Switcher with independent Blanking (it tunes to RGB/CVBS pressing a button and ignores blanking coming from the console in order to solve issues with Atari ST and Amiga when it comes to newer TV sets). Dropped a PM to you for other stuff.


  5. The price seems to be quite good considering absurd prices seen on some auction sites.

     

    I would make someone to inspect both motherboard and power supply in search of imminent failure/failures before using it extensively. This would IMHO save for a lot of headaches later.

     

    Hunting for a CRT monitor with SCART capability (very difficult to find in United States) or a Philips CM8833-II (most viable solution) will complete the setup.

     

     

    Cheers,

    Oge

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